Patcon

So I worked on tar mat some. I used the Wurth tar mat @Zup recommended in another thread. One box is just enough to do the tunnel. I will have to get some more later for the floor boards and hatch floor. The patterns I used are in the resource area Here is the rear pattern over the mat. I layed the mat out and used some clear tape to seam them together. Then I used a few pieces to tack the pattern down. I used this ruler that has a brass edge to help on the long straight cuts. Everything else was freehanded All cut out This is installed. I have that roller tool to get it stuck down properly. The film on top has been peeled since then. I didn't take any pictures of that This is the larger front piece I had to scrap out some areas on this. If I were going to do this again, I would be more selective on where I used the scrap. My scrapped out section was near the top edge of the tunnel and that made it difficult to hold together on install. I used a blue tape line to mark the overlap point

Maybe your fuel priming circuit would help?

Well, I would think it'd get better the colder it gets...

Is it possible to take a convex mirror from a donor mirror and cut it down for retrofit? I don't know how the glass mounts...

Trans aught to be quieter with 100% more lubricant!!

That's a great find! Congrats

Then I don't know right off hand. There must be an adjustment somewhere The single roller just really keeps the glass from tipping out. If it doesn't come up level then the roller guides need to be adjusted to change the tilt of the glass as it rises. The trick is getting it adjusted but not binding

No, not until gundee recommends that! Clean the plugs and drive the car...

Reman's are a very hit or miss proposition these days!

I suspect that vintage cooler is built as well as anything you could buy today. It's probably repairable and I'm sure it can be cleaned out

Don't change two things at a time!!! Make the change Gundee suggested and drive the car! Only one change at a time. Always!

The directions for the module will specify what coil to run. Does the pertronix in the dizzy have a model number on it?

The fact it worked for two weeks makes me think seating isn't the issue

Just trying to isolate the problem. If it spins, it's in the speedo. If it doesn't, it's a broken cable, damaged gear or a sheared pin

Yes, you could disconnect if from the speedo and see if it spins when the car moves.

I rebuilt the rack in my Lily thread. I don't know what page it is. There may be some info in there too.

Plenty of coils could work and start the car but you want the hottest coil you can run that will work with your distributor and ignition!! The hotter the coil is; the less fouling you will have!!!

I think he's Implying he might not be all there! 😂

Yup, paint can hide a lot of sins!

Show some detailed pictures of the wiring connections at the coil and ballast resistor

Thats a great connection to make!!

Good looking car, welcome

I think those numbers are fine. Not stellar but pretty even

If thats the "Porterfield" they're very well known

I am thinking of the single roller that snaps over the weld flange at the top of the door on the outside edge of the window slot. It helps keep the glass from tipping out like this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiL5dOcwIqCAxW7IUQIHe0tDTUQFnoECA4QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fzcardepot.com%2Fproducts%2Fwindow-glass-roller-bumper-guide-240z-260z-280z&usg=AOvVaw26J0DVuFr-nNenUUkUe5NR&opi=89978449