Patcon

That's starting to get some shine to it now...

@Barnfind What is the VIN number of the car?

I would enjoy seeing all the pics LS1 or not. You have really good fabrication skills, so seeing how you solve the different problems would be good. Also the car you are doing would have gone to the crushers if you hadn't saved it! So if you want an LS1 after all this work, by all means do it.

By the way Jai neither of these are real easy to get to. Do able but not easy

I love seeing the work pictures I wondered if there was enough metal there too after all the holes get cut....

Evidently it's already gone. Post deleted

If the engine isn't full of water the freezing won't crack it. It's the fullness and lack of expansion room that causes the problems. When I winterize my boat I can't get all the water out of it but since 80% of it is out the last 20% can't break anything...

@Redwing Glad you're still doing well Jai!

I may have a center valance for a 280, I would have to look. Zkars might have it also and he's on the correct side of the border...

Great progress. After being metal swiss cheese, the color is so appropriate

There are a number of areas where the 280z's got more metal than the 240z's did. You will realize it really quick if you pick up an empty door shell from each car. The 280z's must weigh twice as much due to the interior crash bars added inside the doors

This thread makes my tongue bleed...

Kia weatherstrips?

I suspect he kept his heat down to protect your paint. The low heat means low penetration and weak welds If you click on that thread link dmorales posted there are pictures in the thread

Has that cable bent before? If it has bent previously it becomes weaker and easily bent again...

Yup! What he said ^^^^

I think I would find a better welder to weld if for me. The welds look dirty and four tack welds should be plenty strong enough to hold the hatch.

I don't remember all the hybrid brake setups. I believe there is a sticky on Hybrid Z that list most of the available setups using Nissan parts. Those rotors will probably never go on the back though. To keep proper braking ratios the fronts would have to be huge to offset those large front rotors on the rear. Let me know if you don't find the info on the brakes and I will root around. I am sure one of the other members here knows what I'm talking about and can locate it faster than me...

Good luck with the sale... If you will post it in the classifieds with some pictures someone here might make you an offer

Amen. Ditto... The really bad thing is I think I have sweat shirts older than Brent...

That's great. Brakes are nice to have...

The shifter can be removed from the transmission easily if you remove the E clip at the pivot and push the pivot pin out. The shifter just pulls out of the transmission tail then. The brake rotors with the surface rust would be fine but you are correct the only way to run thicker rotors is to swap in different calipers. Somebody a while back was making Km/Hr faces for gauges. Try searching for the thread. Also there is a good dash repair thread on here too, somewhere...

I would start at the heater valve also. Are the lines attached under the hood? I would assume so since it just came from the shop. Are the controls attached to the heater valve? Will the heater valve move? They sometimes corrode in position and won't move...you should be able to see this from the passenger foot well

Look at Hagerty's site and evaluate the condition of the car by their descriptions. Look on collector car trader or Hemmings motor news for similar cars. The number isn't so low as to change the value a lot IMO

I transported mine at spinning height. Loaded up the ramps and down the ramps and towed it several miles like that. No problems. It's not very heavy. Tie it down well, it will be fine IMO