Patcon

@TheGoat I agree I would wait on the engine upgrades for a little while. Get it going then decide how much more power the car needs. I have ridden in an LS powered car and it is brutal fast as in jail time fast, but the car felt like it was going to disintegrate. The chassis is not designed for that king of torque and as I get older I just want a quick car. I am not trying to set land speed records any more...also an L28et would be almost a plug and play upgrade for a 280z. An intercooler and a boost controller it will make decent power for a fairly light car. As an aside there is a 510 section on this forum too. Feel free to post up some pictures of your dime there, maybe a thread on the 5 speed swap. I need to do that on my son's goon sometime before long, would love a good how to... Welcome aboard

Will the larger alternator have more HP loss than the smaller alternator? I would think the armature(?) in the higher amp alternator would be heavier and slower to spool up plus when the amps get higher I would thing the HP loss would be correspondingly higher. I look at alternator amps sort of like I look at house electrical amps. You have a 200 amp house panel with 40 - 20 amp breakers in it; that's way more than the 200 amp service can realistically feed but how often do you have every branch circuit loaded to maximum? Ummmm, never... In your Z how often will you have all the lights on, wipers on, heater fan on high, stereo kicking wide open, etc., almost never. Even if you did, the battery would supply excess power for a limited time then the alternator could replenish it when you cut some stuff back down. I can see a limited upgrade as potentially being good or going to an easier to source component but in the long run LED's would make a lot of this less necessary. Heater fan upgrade and fixing the wiper linkage would probably greatly reduce drawn amperage as well...

The paint work looks great! Cutting and buffing really makes it pop. Lot's of work but the results are outstanding... You're almost over the hump...all downhill after paint

FYI Glyptol's site says bake or air dry for all but their catalyzed paint...

What are you doing to do with the rear main cap?

Ok so I have the none charge issue again, so If I wanted to go to internally regulated would a regulator delete plug from @Zs-ondabrain work?

Understand...

That's a pretty low number Grannyknot

By the way Jai, if you do any of the testing with the any of the coil wires or ignition be very careful. A leather or rubber glove is recommended they carry a lot of voltage and can be hazardous

That is the way my crankshaft shop does it. I wouldn't even try it myself I have run cranks that have been straightened this way, with no problems. The poster's crank though has alot of bend unless he got his decimals wrong! You would need to straighten it exactly where it bent to get it right. I think it's definitely worth a try, otherwise it's scrap...

Wow, I'm surprised it got that high. That's not a parts car price. Somebody is planning on fixing it...best of luck!

I believe this to be correct, too

I have a couple of LSD's but wouldn't part with either of them cheaply... Rusted? Inside or outside? Don't really care if the case has some rust. It's the guts that matter... Most LSD's you can source are an unknown quantity unless they were just pulled from a known vehicle. You will be hard pressed to tell if a CLSD is good or not from a visual inspection. I paid about $750 for each of mine 6 or 7 years ago and they haven't made any more since then... I am also not really offering them for sale here. The reality is someone will probably read this post that has one and might chime in if they feel like a deal could be made...

I took one of my cranks in to my crank shaft shop I think it was bent about .005" or so but wasn't "straight". They didn't bat an eye, evidently is it not uncommon to see cranks that are not straight. It should be able to be straightened if they can determine where it was bent. If I had to guess I would say it got dropped from a standing position or was thrown during shipping. If they try to straighten it, then it needs to be crack checked really well

I would say the car is probably worth more than $400 but I wouldn't say that is laughably low. Most of the wrecked Z's I have seen go for a lot more but they are salvageable. This car is really toast, with the rust repair needed even more so...

Already gone..

@Diseazd Guy, we can put you up in the guest house too! Always welcome...

What do you think a fair price for one is? Do you have the half shafts already?

Sounds like a good plan

Sounds like lots of rotted rubber, be careful, you could start a fire...

https://www.copart.com/lot/41165936/?resultIndex=15&totalRecords=17&backTo=%2FlotSearchResults%2F%3Ffree%3Dtrue&query=datsun&query=datsun&displayStr=Search Results&viewedLot=41165936 Found this today... It's a rust bucket from the looks of it but will probably go cheap. Maybe one of you guys in PA or somewhere close would have an interest. It would cost me too much to ship it to justify bringing it home, but the interior looks good, the bumpers look good too if they're not rusted out

So it looks like you get 7 pallets or so of fittings, how many completed units does that make? By the way I love these products. Hopefully we can do business one day, after the car is back down on it's wheels...

It boggles my mind what people think used parts are worth. I get lowballers all the time. I wouldn't unbolt it for what some people offer...

And you didn't post a how to???

I think Grannyknot posted that in another thread without the picture. The car took a major shot. It could be fixed but would be a lot of work because it got so far into the rear floor, rear suspension mount is probably damaged too. It's a shame but these cars aren't worth enough yet to save it. When they become valuable enough to save it, parts availability will become the new issue...