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My guess, grey primer on everything. Black on the face that shows

According to car part manual all the lower hinges are the same 2 door, 4 door front and back and wagon

I would expect they are the same. I will have to check part numbers. Pictures would be great!

Possible limited slip in Colorado https://www.copart.com/lot/26260669

Did you do anything special to create the bend?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR6.TRC1.A0.H0.Xmo+clamp.TRS0&_nkw=mo+clamp&_sacat=0 Lots of styles and types. Some have dual points so you can load it in two directions at once. If your jig was fastened to the floor you could add pull points in the floor and some cribbing and basically have a 240z frame rack

I buy them off Ebay or Amazon. More challenging for those of you North of the border. I try to get one like this, then I have one that has more room behind the jaws to get around flanges and such and I have one that will join up 10 or so weld on studs to pull. I also have a wide one that has double jaws

Yeah, that's a good way to get hurt. I don't bounce the way I use to and that concrete gets harder every year!

I have a selection of Mo-clamps like this. They are not very expensive but they grip tighter the harder you pull

Sounds good, but I need to use a post dated check in lieu of PayPal!!!

How did you attach to the backer plate? Did you bolt a strap to it? Some good frame clamps help a lot in this situation

I would love a little more explanation on how you made that backer plate patch panel

CL add out of Pompano beach no affiliation https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/pompano-beach-datsun-240z/6814337779.html

Maybe Zed or someone can back me up, but I thought there was a small screw on the back of the tach. I would try to adjust it with the car idling and see if I could get the tach to show an rpm at idle. If I could, then use a timing light with an rpm display to try to get it adjusted properly. After calibrating the idle rpm, check the tach versus the timing light at a few different rpm's for confirmation

If you're going to build something that looks like that and with those license plates it needs to have some horsepower to back it up!!! The stock L28 doesn't quite back it up.

I wonder if you could adjust the calibration screw to get the tach reading correctly? Thoughts?

The FSM also speaks to those holes. I think they are supposed to be filled with a grub screw, but they weren't there on the rack I tore down.

Yes they come apart, 30mm wrench if I remember correctly. They need to move but not flop around. The FSM has some specs for them. The 240z has a reservoir that is NLA .

Were the ashtrays clear zinc and not chrome?

Any issues with the baked parts being a different color?

When you were talking about the radiator earlier, I almost chimed in to say you could keep the stock look and just go to a three row radiator core if cooling is an issue. Evidently that has already happened. You shouldn't have cooling issues, at least due to the available cooling area...

Are you doing the post plating bake or the plater?

I would really be surprised if they didn't all come from the same source ultimately. The market just isn't big enough for multiple companies to making stamping dies

Tabco, JDM and MSA are the only ones I know of. Some people refer to it as a slam panel