jfa.series1

Welcome to the group. What a GREAT color on your car - of course I'm not biased, noooo... not biased one little bit. Look for some recent threads that have links to getting a long-stored car back to running condition. Be patient. Your pics show a really solid car - that bit of rust under the battery should clean up pretty easily, as will the ding in the fender. We'll all be looking for your updates and any help you need is only a post away.

That's a great looking car, you're going to have some real fun with it. The paint code decal is still in place on the radiator bulkhead and the exterior looks like the engine bay, altho a lot more fresh on the outside. There are several threads here to bring a stored car back to life, I'm sure someone else will probably have the links at hand. Be patient and enjoy your new find. We'll be looking for your progress updates.

Hello Martin, And add yet another welcome to the club. That's a pretty car you have there, even with a couple of warts that you mentioned. Its hard to find a "perfect" 240Z and working to correct a few things can be a form of therapy while learning about your car. We look forward to your updates and you always know where to come with any questions. Jim

The spacers are not needed for a street car, would only be a benefit to a heavily tracked car.

Great story and a seriously fine looking car!!!

When you say cut, I presume you are talking about trimming off the excess length of the side portion of the outer seal. The center portion is an inverted "U", it looks like you have it positioned correctly - no cutting on this one. The side strips have a different cross section (no bulb), why - only a long dead Nissan engineer could tell us. After you get the top/center section securely installed, butt the side strip to it with the bottom flap on the outside. Secure with adhesive and trim where the metal rain rail ends. Hope this correctly answers your question.

I plugged the following assumptions into a wheel offset calculator: stock wheel width 5" and zero offset, new wheel width 6", +6mm offset and got this back: inner clearance reduced by 19mm (about 3/4"), outer position extended by 7mm. If the Panasports are 7" wide the new numbers are: inner reduction 31mm, outer extension 19mm. That's why EuroDat asked about the true wheel size - it makes a difference. Those 225's will probably rub on the lowered car. 1010TIRES.COM - Wheel Offset Calculator

Passenger seats were mounted to the body exactly like the driver side - 4 bolts pointing down from the adjustment slider, inserted thru the floorboard mounts, secured with plastic spacers, lock washers, nuts. At least that is the situation on my car.

Check topside that you have disconnected the carb linkage - its in the FSM. This allows the back of the engine to drop enough for the tranny to pull back cleanly.

I just did a quick check of the online catalogue and it shows a P/N change during the 240Z series (40206-E4100 --> 40206-E4101) but no effective date. Beginning in 08/1973 which should be the beginning of the '74 models of the 260Z the P/N went to 40206-N3100. Hope this helps resolve your question as to getting the correct parts.

Old Z's are well known to have a rear-end clunk that is caused by a broken differential mount - it is above the forward-facing "tail" of the diffy. The rubber insulator ages out over time and simply cracks open, allowing the diffy tail to rise and "clunk" under initial loading. This is an easy and low cost item to replace and should not be considered a deal breaker.

The online catalogue confirms your P/N for models up thru 72/06. For 72/07 and after it is 68100-N3300. What is the exact build date on your car?

Super sweet looking ride. Looks like you did really good!!!

+1 on zKars comments - your wheel may be beyond recovery, at least at a reasonable cost. You didn't say you're looking for a replacement but if so, I also have a completely refinished Series 1 wheel available for sale. You can PM me if interested and I'll send you pictures and details of the work on it.

If you don't have it already, pull the '71 Supplemental Chassis Manual down from XenonS30. It has excellent detail on your wiring with all your color codes. XenonS30

Here's an older thread with some info. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/47334-weatherstrip-kit.html

FYI - stock rubber bushings are still available thru Nissan. I previously replaced mine with poly but all the noise quickly had me swapping back to new stock ones.

Just because there are no adjustments on the rear suspension does not mean you don't have an alignment problem. Putting the car onto a modern alignment rack will check all four wheels and prove the point. Worn bushings might not be the problem - some part of the suspension might be bent.

Michael - thanks for the brief photo lesson. I understand the multi-stop bracketing and found that my Corel supports HDR. Now for some reading and experimenting. Jim

Please explain HDR to a layman. I use Corel Paintshop Pro to tweak my photos, I suspect HDR is an effect that might also be in my software.

Happy Anniversary and many more to come! Clearly you've learned to "Enjoy The Ride".

+1 on using a stud welder - no holes to fill later!

The order process was clean, no problems. Shipping was fast. You have to buy a box of 10. The additional 1W of brightness over stock is noticeable.

I ordered the MSA bulbs a while back only to later read about the fit problems. I later found these guys and they work perfectly for those not interested in converting to LED. Eiko 12V 4W G3-1/2 Mini Bayonet Base A-72 * | Motorcycle Snowmobile

I’m in need of some guidance in isolating an electrical problem. Here are the symptoms: I started the car yesterday and kept an eye on the gauges as it warmed up. I noticed the ammeter was not moving to charge as it usually does – it was holding dead center or perhaps a very slight discharge at all revs. I flicked the turn signals and got a small discharge with each cycle, no change at revs. I turned on the headlights and saw no movement on the ammeter (no discharge), no change with revs. I drove the car a bit to see if anything would break loose and begin operating normally, no joy. Here is some background info: the car came off a full resto two years ago. It has a new (re-man) alternator, voltage regulator, and battery. All wiring is OE and in excellent condition. I’ve got Dave’s relay kits on the headlights and turn signals. The car is a typical garage queen and gets about 1k miles each year. I keep a maintainer on the battery while the car is garaged. I’ve checked the FSM but most of what it covers is over my head – I’ve no prior experience at troubleshooting engine electrical problems. I suspect I’ve got a bad alternator or regulator. I’ve got a multi-meter and know how to use it – just not how to apply it to this problem. Right now the car is down because the radiator came out yesterday for repair this week. A couple of pointers on how to proceed would be much appreciated. Thanks,. Jim