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Pir0San

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About Pir0San

  • Rank
    Z lover

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  • Map Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Occupation
    Firedog Technician

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1972 240Z

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  1. I put the dash back in the car and hooked up everything but these connectors and all of the accessories work properly. I'm still at a loss for what these connectors might be; possibly ac, heater control light, fog lights, safety interlock, stock radio?
  2. I figured out that the first connector is for the choke switch, and the cut wire matched the red/blue wire that was next to it in the harness. I was able to pull the spade connector from the block connector and solder the wires back together. The second connector is for the rear window defroster switch, and the blue wire matches with the blue wire farther up the harness. I'm still at a loss as what the other connectors are for. I took some more pictures though: This is a female two prong connector, and the wiring is green and black/white stripe. This is a male two prong connector, and the wiring is green/white stripe and red. The final connector is a female three prong connector, and the wiring is black - green - black. I can't seem to find where these wires appear on the wiring diagram or on the supplement guide. They don't appear to go to the rear speakers either. I was thinking that maybe one of the two prong connectors were for the dome light, but the colors don't match on the light housing, plus the PO snipped the harness in the ceiling.
  3. Thanks for the suggestion on the supplement. I didn't originally even look at it as my car was built in 8/72, but after a quick browse it looks like the connectors are the same. Maybe I can get the dash back into the car today after all.
  4. Thanks for the reply. I have a few different wiring diagrams (Haynes, Datsun FSM, Chiltons, and the links you provided), but the diagram doesn't show the color pinout of the connector specifically. I wish Nissan would have been consistent and made the wiring match as it jumps from connector to harness. Maybe I just suck at reading wiring diagrams.
  5. I decided to pull the dash out of my Z to fix some hack job wiring done by the previous owner, and I'm confused as to where a few of the connectors go. I'm working on the part of the harness that drops from the center of the dash down to the fuse box and choke/defroster/seat belt light, and the PO cut some of the wires so things are difficult to figure out. Where do these connectors go? I suspect that this connector goes to the choke switch. It's wiring is red/blue stripe and black. The red/blue is snipped, and it looks like the rest of the wire is in the harness closest to the connector (as pictured). The choke switch connector is red/blue and red, so this worries me as the colors do not match. These connectors look like they go to the defroster switch. The blue wire is snipped, and there is no wire close by that looks like it matches it. I did find a disconnected blue wire further up the harness that looks like it might belong to the snipped end. (I used process of elimination to figure it out, these was the only connectors that had three prongs on both ends, but the wire colors don't match). I have no idea what these are, but the connectors look like they go together. The wires are both from the center harness, but from two different branches. Finally, there's this random connector that nothing matches with. I suspect that it belongs to the antenna manual switch, as the connectors are shaped the same. The pinout is Black - Green - Black. The antenna manual switch pinout is Blue/Red - Blue/White - Blue. So...any ideas?
  6. Now what would cause the car to run poorly in the heat?
  7. So, after thinking about what could cause a problem with the tach reading incorrectly and reading that the coil can cause fals readings, I decided to replace the coil yesterday. I bought a Niehoff coil from Kragen, and reused my old ballast resistor. It's not as hot as it was yesterday, I think temperatures are around the 90's today. I went outside to drive my Z on my lunch break, and it started up and seem to run more solid, but yet when the key was in the on position and the engine was off the tach was indicating the motor at 200rpm with the engine off. What else can I replace? Could the ballast resistor be causing these remaining problems?
  8. I have a feeling that this has been posted before, but I can't find the thread for the life of me. My Z has been running great, no problems at all. I drove it for about 4 hours straight just over this last weekend without any problems. Today, temperatures are hotter than they have been all summer (106 today) and when I went out to take the Z for a drive, she started up but sputtered a little bit. I got on the road and went driving, but the car still seemed to be hesitating. I pulled into a parking lot, got some food, and when I came back out, the car did not want to idle smoothly. I shut the car off, and when I turned the key back to the on position, the tach was sitting at 1200 rpms without the car even being started. I started the Z, and the tach indicated the motor spinning at 2500 rpm, when it was really idling more around 600 rpm, and very roughly. Under load the car seems to run ok, it still seems to misfire, but it's really bad when I just let the car idle. What could my problem be? I've got a freshly rebuilt engine with about 2500 miles on it, a pertronix pointless system in my dizzy, and that's pretty much it that isn't stock. Help!
  9. OH NOES! It's blackbird! For real though, this would make an AWESOME movie.
  10. My Z just rolled over 700 miles...on the rebuilt engine. The whole car has about 146,000 miles on it now.
  11. Roy, thanks for the heads up. I ended up pulling an R180 3.54 out of a 280zx, about 3 months ago.
  12. I finally got my rebuilt engine back in the Z, and it runs awesome. I've got a new problem now though. I shattered the old type b tranny that the car had in it when I got it, so I swapped it out with a rebuilt type a tranny. I installed a new clutch kit with the new engine, and now I realize that the throwout bearing collar is not the right length (it is too short). This is causing my clutch to engage only when the master and slave cylinders are fully adjusted outward. If anyone in the Sacramento area has a throwout bearing collar from a type b 4 speed, I would be willing to purchase it from you, for a reasonable price. Someone please help! The clutch is really the only thing that is keeping me from getting the car back out on the road and getting the engine run in.
  13. I'm looking for a Victor Reinz head gasket for my L24, and I can't seem to find them anywhere here in Sacramento. If anyone has any ideas where to find them, or if anyone has one they are willing to sell, please let me know!
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