Zed Head

The distributors come with marks to get static timing close, either two lines or a line and some numbers. Then you can remove the cap to make sure the rotor is pointed the right direction, and the spark trigger (points opening or reluctor edge on magnetic pickup) are in the correct place. Which distributor and ignition system are you using?

If you use Topics Last 24 Hours under the Activity heading instead, the eBay ads don't show. Mike fixed it. You can go beyond 24 hours by clicking Load More Activity at the bottom.

You should just block the yellow hose path. The yellow hose would allow the pump to pull too much coolant from the back of the head, and less through the radiator. Causes overheating. Your carb manifold should have a thermostat anyway. There was just whole discussion about it with jxq. They're described in the Fuel Modifications book in Downloads.

Those are all hydrocarbon based. Just spit on it, or use soapy water. It's not a huge deal. And the type of rubber and the application matters also. The booster seal doesn't move much and the part that does, the accordion shape, probably isn't the part you'll be lubricating. Plus it's in a protected area, unlike a CV boot (which is packed with grease and exposed to the elements). Just saying, it's worth consideration, but after doing so, keep it simple. No offense Mark, if the Silglyde is handy definitely use it (I have a small can of a different brand in the garage myself), but I wouldn't make a special trip to the store for a booster seal. Just me. WD-40 is petroleum based also. That was my suggestion, on one of the two other forums you've posted in. http://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/sku_msds_537.pdf

What's happening here, is a small business starting? FutoFab should be partnering up. Aren't they called biertjes in Holland?

I used a one ton chain hoist from the rafters, and moved the car. The beauty of the chain hoist is that it doesn't leak down, and it pulls much closer to itself than a come-along,and is very finely adjustable. The rafter was a triple thickness beam at the intersection of two roof surfaces. Very sturdy. Although a 4x4 will spread the load across several rafters also.

I wondered about that. The pciture of the swap kit, the first one, shows the hose attaching to what definitely looks like the bleed screw port though, so they found a way around it. Why would they leave a big aggravation in their kit? Don't get it. I'd just stick apiece of wood between the pistons after rotating the caliper on one mounting bolt. Doesn't matter what you're squeezing on. Oh well, it's hard to put yourself in the customer's shoes sometimes. At least they offer something.

You asked for advice. I suggest starting out with positives in your description. Not "One of the wheel caps is missing"! I'd list all of the Series One, early 240Z bona fides first. That's going to be your type of buyer, probably. Hit them with the Serial number right off the click. I'd attach a video link of the engine running also. Maybe even a moving shot. p.s. You misspelled Zedd Findings.

You have the BIg Brake Upgrade. Not sure if you could have just swapped ports. Still odd that they would send them out plumbed wrong.

Looks like Silvermine used the bleeder as the input and the input as the bleeder. In their web picture anyway. Odd.

I know that the wheel cylinders are different from early to late. I have 78 rear brakes on my 76. I'd guess that the location of the hole is different. Can't remember for sure on the hole, but I'm certain the cylinders are different. Single piston, sliding, versus double piston. I also had to replace a line for the same reason, but I bent my own using a prefitted straight line from OReilly, and a board and some long wood screws as a bending fixture. Just set the old line on the board and drive screws in at the bending points. Then lay the new line in and bend it to fit the curve. I measured the length of straight line I needed with a piece of string. It wasn't difficult and actually kind of enjoyable. A tip on getting the old fitting out, if you haven't - file new parallel flats on the nut and clamp a good pair of clean-jawed Vise-Grips on it. If the problem nut is at the junction you can apply heat without too much concern. It's all metal. If it's at the cylinder, just spend a lot of time getting the grip tight on the nut. If it starts to slip, stop and start over. It will snap loose like it's breaking but won't .

Where'd you get the new one? So the rest of us can avoid it. I've read about some of the early solid-state VR's having problems but it seemed like they had them fixed.

Toyota put the starter for their V8 Tundra engines under the intake manifold. And gave them poor copper contacts in the solenoid. A friend of mine has starting dread every day now, but doesn't want to spend the money to have it fixed and isn't a car guy. I offered to help him fix it but he's just going to live with it until he gets stuck somewhere.

I would go directly to the fuel pump relay. The ignition switch powers the ignition relay, and it everything else is working then your ignition switch is fine. Click on your user name, upper right corner of page, and a drop-down menu will open up.

I think that's a drain hole for oil. So bottom would be proper in that case. I measured 39.1 mm for that spring. 1.54 inches.The screw, #27, has a nice divot inside for a ball bearing if you wanted to try the preloading. I think that the original design is just meant for easy shifting. I'm going to try a preload if I can get mine out next time I'm under the car. It will put more pressure on #25, which sits on a ramp on the shaft. Should center itself more forcefully.

Actually, I'm just suggesting that you not worry about why installing a new battery exposed or caused this problem. Just fix the problem, and ponder how it happened later, after you fix it. While you're driving your car. Recreate the problem, however it happens, then find out which component or wire along the power path isn't delivering. Don't go through the pug-unplug routine, it doesn't matter much. It might later, maybe in finding a stuck relay by it's clicking or not clicking, or in pondering the bad component's beahvior. You have to find the component first though. You can go directly to checking the relay, using the FSM instructions also. The numbers, 86, 88, etc. are stamped in to the base of the relay. You can test it while it's plugged in and has the problem. Find a friend with a meter with some pointy probes or get one yourself, then locate the EFI/pump relay by the hood latch. An electrical-minded person could test it without knowing anything about 280Z's, if you took the attached page and the relay to him/her. You're lucky in that your problem is repeatable. If ti only happened randomly it would be much more difficult to diagnose.

You might try preloading the spring with a shim. The 5 speed currently in my car has the same problem.

Aside from zcar.com and all of the above discussion, you have a fundamental problem of solving an electrical issue with no electrical skills. Which may be what caused the problem in the first place. Kind of like saying you want to drive a car but you don't know how to drive a car. You're going to have go beyond "no electrical system test/repair skills". How can it be any other way unless you're asking someone to come by your place and fix your car for you? You're going to have to learn some new stuff. Or you can just replace parts until it works again. Start with this one - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bck-203-0053?seid=srese1&gclid=CLH_xc2zlswCFYqPfgodHdkAug

You decided to just hot wire the pump in the other forum. And it was more than just the AFM switch, you've left out some details. As I recall, your real goal was not to fix the car, but to understand the mystery of how it failed. More of a discussion about how it happened than an attempt to fix it. You already had a jumped AFM. You didn't test circuits and show your results, you just wanted a theory. Do you have a meter? Are you trying to find the failed part or figure out how it failed? Those are two different things. Maybe you installed the battery backwards and damaged some parts. Did you accidentally do that? Regardless, you can't make progress without those details you said you had. The one big advantage of this site over zcar.com is that we can post pictures here. Here's the 77 diagram. Can't remember but did you confirm that you have the 1x1x2 inch silver combined fuel pump and EFI relay up above the hood latch release lever? A18-000 001 or 002. That's where the important part is. And it's expensive. Might just be sticking.

If you're the same guy from the other forum, or ended up with his car, his fuel pump power had been fiddled with. The AFM switch was bypassed and he had some other odd things going on. So the Nissan wiring diagram and troubleshooting couldn't be applied. Are you that guy? I think it was zcar.com.

Haven't you already been on this forum or another with the same problem? Can't tell what you did. Seriously, the collection of words below just doesn't convey much information. Kind of like the Talking Heads song "Burning Down the House". Which they acknowledge is nonsense lyrics. You can even sing "connection/disconnection repeated sequence of fusible link power wire" along to the song. It fits! Provide the detailed write-up instead. "went through all electrical circuits to get car to start and run...until ignition turned off and restart attempted...connection/disconnection repeated sequence of fusible link power wire with key in "start" would get power back to pump"

How did you check spark from the coil? Just making sure that you were actually running power though the module. If you tested by tappng a jumper from coil negative to ground with the key On, you were bypassing the ignition module. If you spun (span?) the engine with the coil wire disconnected then the module was being used. I had a weak module. Orange-yellow spark, would start with starter fluid, but not normally. Killed it by running the engine with two plug wires off. I've written these words before. Sqwawk.

I tried to do that on mine but nothing happened. The clip could not be destroyed, not even a hint that it was yielding. Had to re-engage the brain.

Maybe you get free edits on the iPad. Nissan reviewed the whole "too much heat" problem and made several changes in 1974. The Fuel document in the Downloads section.. Maybe they went one step further for the 280Z.

My mistake. Anybody notice the 24 Hour page summary is not the same as the post, even though the does not appear to have been edited. "on drugs" = sipping too much happy juice". Let's try it - I am not on drugs.