Zed Head

This will seem ironic, coming from me, but the big picture of the back end of a 280Z seems like it would be better used for some tasteful ads. Allowing the stuff I really want to see, new forum content, to rise up to where I can see it. As it stands the first thing I see is the back of that car and it's getting old, having to scroll down to where the good stuff is. Just saying, less 280Z butt, more ads, more content...everybody wins!

At last you're on the correct end of the car now. Still more to the puzzle though.

That's a good idea. A variation might be to use a needle on the end of your air hose and just insert it into the channel between the glass and seal, from the inside. Pressurize that,low pressure so you don't blow out the seal, and you should get plenty of bubbles on the outside. There can actually be a fairly large chamber between the glass and seal. The water that leaked in to mine from the outside would exit from the lower right corner on a left hand turn then from the lower left on a right hand turn. I had pondered finding a low viscosity liquid sealant to fill the void between seal and glass. But when I realized the leak was at the top and I'd have to fill a lot of void I went with the external black silicone. Plus my car is ratty. I'll bet you can find a very low viscosity sealant that will squirt and fill that void. We used to use something like that for Chevy windshields to fill the gap at the bottom. It flowed to fill gaps.

It's hard to find leak spots. Where it gets in and where it comes out are usually not close together. I removed the metal trim on mine to try and give some flexibility to the seal so I could squeeze some sealant in between the body and seal. It was a real pain getting it back in. I'd use the tricks from forums like this over the FSM procedures. The factory is using new slippery flexible factory seals and probably has special tools. We're out here in the real world.

Support the transmission and drop the crossmember by removing the single nut in middle and the bolts on the sides. Then the insulator nuts will be exposed. Actually not really sure what you're trying to do. What help would it be to drop the differential anyway? EDIT - your title says diff and your text says transmission. Edit 2 - you can let the nose of the diff hang down on the mustache bar to get a wrench on the nuts above. It's very strong spring steel and well bolted on.

Have you read the Body chapter section on the windshield? Describes installation, and also a sealer that they use between the glass and seal. If the seal is still flexible you might be able to reuse it, with sealant, although their removal procedure is destructive. They also talk about sealing leaks. It's a good read!

I've read posts from guys who had one of those on-site companies install a windshield, for much much less, and the company brought the windshield with them, from stock. $300 is 6 hours at $50/hour. Seems steep. Maybe if he guaranteed the installation, with windshield replacement if he breaks it, and the windshield was very very hard to find, like Rolls Royce hard-to-find. But that's not the case here. I'd look for someone else, myself. Windshields are not generally hard to install, for any car. I've done a few old Chevys, not too hard. Surface prep and sealing are the difficult part, and it's mostly just time-consuming detail stuff.

That is the way top do it. Iterative. Actually, the main reason they want idle speed to be low is so that the mechanical advance weights aren't advancing the timing. So it doesn't have to be exact. You'll probably find that you adjust the timing, then the idle speed, and the timing doesn't change, because it's below the activation RPM for the mechanical advance. If timing moves a lot at low RPM then you probably have a broken/weak spring in your distributor. You shouldn't get any change in timing until 1200 RPM. Specs. are in the Engine Electrical chapter.

Actually, it's just shut off completely. The hole in the throttle body is covered or on the other side of the throttle blade. Can't remember which. Just one of those weird things that can start pages of forum discussion - ported or constant vacuum advance supply. Google will give many pages if you try that phrase. Nissan went with ported, at least for EFI. I think it gives cleaner emissions and a steadier idle.

People have cut new slots in the housing. Easier to poke the little roll pin out and swap gears.

You should find that no vacuum is pulled at idle, at the hose connection. The vacuum advance port should be "ported" vacuum, it only gets vacuum when the throttle is off-idle. That's why Nissan doesn't mention it, I think. On page ET-6.

The number of teeth needs to match the diff gear set. But the orientation of the housing (which side the hold-down slot is on), and maybe the diameter of the gear (I've seen reference to other sizes but haven't seen it myself), can change with the transmission.

That is the combined relay. Spendy. I mis-wrote, there's actually even one more connector after the one by the passenger seat. If you open the passenger door, remove the sill plate, and peel the carpet apart at the seam, you'll see the connector. Attached a picture with wire colors. Notice that there's also one farther back, probably behind one of the plastic panels. Also attached a picture of the EFI relay wiring. Not easy to figure out, you'll probably need a meter to be sure.

That stuff is great. I've used it on several body to seal leaks. But it can't handle the sun. It will start peeling in just a few months if exposed.

I asked earlier about year of car because the fuel pump relay is combined with the EFI relay on 75-77 cars. Most people with 76 cars say that they replaced the EFI relay. Or the EFI and pump relay. I guess my point is "are you sure that it was the pump relay?" It's about 1x1x2" and silver. Power problems are actually fairly simple to diagnose. If I had your sporadic problem, I'd wire a light in to the pump power circuit just to be sure the pump is actually getting power. Don't overlook the connector next to the passenger seat. It's under the carpet and could be one of those dirty connector areas. Pump power runs through there, I think it's the last connector before the pump. Good place for a light wired in.

It's not's design aspect of the FPR, it's just a simple weakness or flaw. But that is what many of the aftermarket adjustable FPR's do. I used to have that problem with an Aeromotive. I replaced it. with an adjustable Bosch FPR. T'ing two wires at the replay could bypass the relay itself, or they might be bypassing the AFM switch. It could be that the T'ed wires to make the pump run all the time was an effort to fix the problem that you have now, but it didn't work. You might just have a bad pump relay. If you ID'ed the wires that were T'ed we could probably say why.

I had the same problem. I had to seal the complete perimeter of the outside of the glass at the interface with the seal to finally finish off the leak. I tried sealing just the bottom and sides and a bit around the corner at the top but the water must have been folding over the edge and in. Once the full path was sealed, no more leaking. I used black windshield sealant it seems to hold up to the sun best. I also sealed a large portion of the outside of the rubber until I realize how the waster was getting in. I'm on a budget and my car needs a lot more than just a new windshield seal so I haven't dealt with replacing the rubber yet.

I'd focus on this. Maybe he used wire nuts and they vibrated loose. 76 used the AFM contact switch to energize the pump relay. The major downside to having the fuel pump run when the key is on is if the engine dies because a pressurized fuel line split, the pump will just keep pumping. And it's not the rail losing pressure, it's probably the FPR. Could be the pump though.

Do you mean at the speedometer or at the transmission? there are a couple of o-rings n the ned of the cable sheath. I think that CO has posted on fixing that problem. People have reported fluid all the way up the speedometer. Not sure how that happens.

What year car? I've forgotten. I'd assume that you can tell the pump isn't running by the lack of noise? How did you bypass the shut off? Seems like it must have been failing sporadically, maybe overheating, if it is the fuel pump power causing the problem. If you're not sure it was actually the fuel pump power failing, it could be the ECU. What you described is almost exactly what happened to me when my ECU failed. I got close enough to run home and get an ECU that worked. I was testing the one that failed.

The color and the smell are more from just chemical reaction with oxygen. If air is getting in, moisture probably is too, but a good inspection would be worth doing before assuming it needs a lot of work. That smell is one you'll recognize in the future if you're trying to figure out how long a car's been sitting.

The Engine Fuel, and Engine Electrical chapters of the FSM, and the Fuel Injection Guide (1980 version) are the place to start, with a multimeter. Don't assume anything, almost every component can be tested before replacing. This should be called the Fuel Injection guide, not EFI Book - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/ Here's the FSM - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/24-1978-280z-factory-service-manual/ Here's all of the Downloads - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Not to be a Danny Downer but I wonder if it's vented Part of fit is function. Could be why the parts places say it doesn't "fit".

You have a dilemma. Pretty sure that the DMV of the state of registration would have that. Could also be that your father changed titles but didn't register the car. Seems like all roads lead to the DMV. I don't know that I've seen a DMV program that will give owner information anyway, just by plugging in a VIN. Do they do that?