Zed Head

More from the 1972 FSM, MT chapter - they only say to disconnect a single wire. Love a good puzzle.

Many of the emissions era cars have a top gear switch, for the vacuum advance control solenoid.

You could set idle to 900 (the point that centrifugal starts to kick in - 2 x 450 [average]) or lower then connect the vacuum hose to a vacuum port. This would give full vacuum advance. Or use your vacuum pump. You'll probably have to reset idle speed to below 900 since advancing igntion timing typically increases idle speed, which will cause the centrifugal advance to advance timing also. Or you could use the curve from the FSM and subtract out the centrifugal part.

I wondered about the Vinny Bedini comments. He was before my time but there was some overlap, with Kathy & Rick comments. I've only had my Z for about five years but a lot of people that were deep in to the cars are moving on to other things. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/36343-bob-sharp-racing/ http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8221 http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3&Itemid=12 http://www.ctzcc.com/images/bedini.pdf https://www.linkedin.com/in/vinny-bedini-b8716923

I know that these are hard to find in un-curbed or -shrubbed shape. This one looks decent. http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/5819794925.html

Saw this ad and did a few double-takes when reading through it. Kind of funny. Sorry if you're a member here. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5808738675.html '77 Datsun 280Z with Track Car Potential, Needs Motor, New Exhaust Sy - $7000 (Portland) This Z is a head turner, and is perfect to be built into a fun track car (for open track day, not racing). It needs a new motor due to a connecting rod coming loose. The car has a 3-speed automatic transmission but, again, ripe to be rebuilt for the track. Despite the current motor issue, this car is otherwise in great condition:gold with black racing stripevirtually rust-free 109,547 mphnew exhaust system (see below)tight handling and suspensiondent free bodyseats in very good conditiongood brightwork and glassworking CD player and custom speakers, digital audio inputheat works, A/C does notglass/door sealing done recently to prevent foggingDatsun Type HLS30VIN: HLS30366369Engine details: L28, a 2,753 cc (2.8 L; 168.0 cu in) 12-valve engine. Bore is 86.0 mm and stroke is 79 mm. The basic L28 is carburetted. Chassis No. HLS30 -- 366369Max. HP/RPM: 170 HP/560 OR PM (SAE)The entire exhaust system was overhauled in 2014 by a Z car master, Vinny Bedini of Bob Sharp Racing in Connecticut. (Vinny is mentioned on this forum http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/294382-bob-sharp-33-wheels.html and there's more info on Bob Sharp Racing here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob_Sharp_(racing_driver).) Vinny also replaced the wheels allowing for slightly larger than the original tire size. So the wheels, tires and exhaust system are all new and built by a Z master.

It really depends on your plans, your skills, and the local market. I'd pay more than many people would for a car with no drive train because I have extra parts and I feel comfortable doing that kind of work. Others on the forum are more comfortable/skilled at body work, or electrical, or interior. Some have local shops that they know of that can do certain work for a good price. Best to put a plan together and a list of resources, with costs. The car, like that one, is just one small part of a project. Most of use have spent more money on parts and labor than on the original car.

I think you're right. The average of 375 and 525 is 450. Matches the starting point of the specification (Post #2). Maybe it's a standard method for showing distributor curves, in the 1960's/70's.

And the centrifugal advance mechanism should have a number stamped in to it that indicates maximum advance. You have to remove the breaker plate to see it. Won't tell you the rate but should show max. In the big picture though, with the changes in fuel composition, the fine details of what Nissan did may not matter much. As far as how to tune your engine.

Actually, I see how confusing it can be. My previous post may be worthless. Don't forget to double the distributor numbers to get crankshaft numbers. I would seek out the proper curves for -53 also.

I think that the two curves are for two different engines, and transmissions. Page EM-34. Match the spec. to the final advance on the curves. Edit - added the comment about the transmissions. Manual versus automatic. Edit 2 - My image is from what's supposed to be the 1972 FSM. The distributor numbers don't match yours though. I would not trust that " D612-52 that I understand has the same curve. " is true. Overall though, I think that each one of those curves is meant to be used alone. No adding together, unless you want to calculate centrifugal plus vacuum.

How about a door mechanism spring for the first one? The detent thing that stops the door at various positions. I think it might be a pull-type. Just a guess. The bottom one looks like a twisting action.

Water lines have always been the wire clamps on the various engines I've worked on, or the replacement type you're showing. Never the smooth FI hose clamps. They tend to rust shut though, then get bent and fall apart upon removal. Probably why yours has all of those replacements.

I've had the hot switch on my 76 car. You can peel the tabs back on the switch itself and take it apart. The heat comes from dirty contacts inside, if you don't add relays you pretty much have to take it apart. The contacts get pitted after a few million cycles. The switch is probably fine for relays but might never be good for extended full power. I added a single relay in front of the fuse box for my problem but the 71 wiring might be different. Check the diagrams. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/

If it has fresh Rebello 3.1 race motor, and rebuilt transmission - abut $2500. If it has a blown up old 2.6L engine and wasted transmission - $400. Just kidding, kind of, but there's not enough information. There's a guy on Hybridz selling a 1975 280Z that would probably give you a good price if you're looking for a project. RebekahsZ.

Only one post. You might want to @ him. @Howling_Moose My @ thing's not working though. No names come up. Mileage and a list of parts still on the car would be good. Will you remove parts, will you ship, etc. @H still nothing... Something weird going on with it. It worked below. @Howling_Moose

Almost forgot what I was going to say while the Reply box opened after I signed in. Those are also the classic signs of bad battery connections. The heat of the starter current draw opens the dirty connection. Clean and tighten your battery cable connections.

There was an article in a local paper about that. Here in the Portland area, having four headlights on is apparently illegal, when facing oncoming traffic. It counts as having your brights on or something like that. But they don't enforce it. There are a ton of big jacked up truck with extra lights, often blue colored, and annoying. Probably often driven by off-duty cops.

And the hood vents seem like one of a series of attempts to stop the new annoyance. By the time they were done they had a webbed intake manifold, more heat shields, added a fan, and maybe even lightened up the exhaust manifold. The 77 manifold seems much more massive than the 78 and later exhaust manifolds. Eventually they moved the exhaust ports to the other side of the head. Seems like that trail of frustration would have been a good story for the book. If they had designed an intake manifold that fit on the bottom and exhaust on top that might work. They should have tried that. p.s. thanks for typing in all of those excerpt words. Tired fingers.

They're two different problems, aren't they? The EFI cars certainly don't stop dead when turning the wheel after driving in hot conditions, and stay dead for 1/2 hour. Actually I've never even heard of that for the carb'ed cars. Kind of a weird story. They traded one serious problem for a serious annoyance, I'd say.

The guesses can only be as good as the facts. Actual times would help, Occasionally, after, after the car has been turned off...kind of vague. Random problems are difficult to solve. The ECU is one thing that seems to go bad on a random basis, and running rich is a symptom. It's an uncommon problem though. Try thumping the side of the ECU and/or wiggling the cable next time it happens. Or try another ECU if you can borrow one. Worse when it's rainy could be a humidity thing, which can affect electronics. My other car's radio craps out in the rainy weather. And these ECU's don't have a limp-mode. They always do exactly the same thing based on inputs, when they're working correctly. Did you problem happen before you adjusted the TPS?

That's a good check. About 6 clicks and the lever should get tight. If it's loose, pull it up several times and it should get tighter, if the mechanism is working. If it does tighten up and you still have the problem, it's probably not the rear brakes, it's probably air in the system. Many people have problems bleeding the Z brakes. If your brakes are not factory stock, but are "upgraded" then it's a whole different story. People always have problems with those. Don't overlook the Brake chapter of the FSM. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

And check that you didn't install the calipers on the wrong sides. The bleeder screw needs to be on top.

Where else will you be advertising? Just curious. Hope you don't mind but I reorganized your list just to try and get a feel for the details of the whole package (to fit the way my brain works). Does it look right? All of this for the asking price, as a package? 1971 Datsun 240Z VIN#: HLS30-12427 Manufacture date: 10/1970 Mileage: 39,000 (origonal) Condition: Un-restored Body: Original gold color (color code 920) Engine- 2.8L 280Z motor. The engine smokes a little when you start the car and really get on the gas. This motor has a E31 head rebuilt with hardened valve seats. Original radiator rebuilt with and added extra row Intake: 40mm Mikuni Solex’s from Japanese RHD car. Rebuilt. HKS manifold with a custom heat shield. Less than 500mi on the rebuilt carburetors. Exhaust: The original exhaust was replaced with a 2.5” exhaust to match up with the header obtained off of a Japanese 240Z motor Transmission: Japanese manual 5 speed with Datsun Roadster tail housing which allows the shift arm to sit in the correct position without having to modify the body. Brakes: Toyota 4x4 dual piston calipers Suspension/wheels: Panasport 16 wheels, lowering springs. Interior: The interior is original black and in almost new condition. The door panels are original 70 door panels (they are different from a 71). The dash is in perfect condition, no cracks or fading. The original AM radio and the power antennae. The original spare tire. Driver seat show a little from getting in and out of the car. Documents: Original owner's manual and warranty book is included. Electrical upgrades: From Dave at http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/contact-us/ : Headlight upgrade harness Parking light upgrade harness Side-marker conversion plugs ZX alternator adapter plug E (not currently installed) Extra parts: Original 2.4L engine: Appears all original with E31 head with matching numbers block. Everything is in working order. With most of the factory parts still on the motor (spark plug wires, hoses, ect). 2nd spare engine - 2L from Japanese RHD car Original transmission - 3spd automatic. AC parts - This 240Z had dealer installed A/C that I removed since it was not charged. All the A/C parts are in storage and go with the car. If you want to add the A/C system back you will have everything to do so. Original front brake calipers Original wheels and hubcaps Spare Front chrome bumper overrider

Might be the old "hot start" issue. We collected some stories and solutions a short while ago. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48810-hot-start-issue-with-efi-who-has-it-who-doesnt/