Zed Head

These old EFI systems tend to run lean once you get all the bugs worked out, ofent it's so bad that you'll get popping back through the intake. I have a method of richening the mixture and I can get a misfire/stumble if I have it set too lean. You could try it, it's pretty easy. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html The electronic ignition modules fail also but that problem tends to be more obvious than what you're describing. I'd try the the "fuel tweak" first. I have mine mounted in the cabin so I can tune it to the finest level. It makes a difference.

Nice. If you lower the car just a bit it will help the handling a lot. I've heard/read that the later cars sit a little high because there's certain height the 5 mph bumpers have to be at. Federal guidelines. Only mentioning 'cause you're going to work on the suspension.

You said you tried. Did it work? Do you have the FSM? You're kind of rambling around on what the problem is. There's a lot of "load" that happens before 5000 RPM. What kind of "stumbling" does it do? Is there any popping through the intake or is it just a spark problem? What does the tachometer needle do when it's stumbling? The pump noise might be from the filter before the pump, making it too difficult to pull fuel. Your fuel pressure is higher than spec. Not looking for buddies. Good luck.

What kind of electrical? Engine, lights, dash... They're different. And which garages have you tried? Probably best to stick to this sub-forum. Run a single thread.

What kind of electrical? Engine, lights, dash... They're different. And which garages have you tried?

You might check a lawnmower or small engine repair shop. The cables on those are two way actuators.

I think that they call them reservoirs. They work more as charging systems, air blows out but coolant gets sucked back in. You have to have the right radiator cap for them to work, with two valves, an in and an out. Dave WM, you might have a Canada car. Apparently they didn't get them. Cooling chapter...

Consider McMaster Carr also. https://www.mcmaster.com/#music-wire/=14yc2e0

Dang. Didn't realize how lucky I was. You might reconsider scavenging the wrecking yards. Some of the older bigger cars can have lengthy cables, with sheaths.

The open side always faces toward the fluid.

You live in Texas, surrounded by industry, and can't find a hardware store with piano wire? I live in the Portland metro area and found it at a True Value store. It came in three foot length's, if I recall. Sometimes the internet makes things so easy they actually get more difficult.

What's a dovetail?

Here's some more. Just trying to help, Barnfind. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hoyts-Automotive/129484637180727

He doesn't know man. It's free! Here's some Google-fu. https://www.google.com/maps/place/120+Pond+Rd,+Bowdoinham,+ME+04008/@44.0241324,-69.9292189,1535m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x4cb2760e52040e65:0xced01639ea96351c!8m2!3d44.024622!4d-69.9232679

Your in-dash voltmeter can tell you quite a bit about the electrical system. Look at the needle before starting the car, at idle, and when the engine is revved up. It should be higher when the engine is running. And look at the red charge light. It should be on when the key is On, and go off when the engine starts.

I think that DZman is your competition luial. He joined just to make that one post. He's a potential buyer. Let the game begin. Interested to find out what the secrets are that must be disclosed via personal conversation.

A "good deal" is still being screwed up for somebody. The guys saying it's worth more aren't really here for the person buying. They just want to see a high value on the car. Two different camps, is what I'm saying. Collectors and drivers. It will be interesting to see where this one ends up. Maybe prospective buyers should write a letter stating their intentions and why they should get it like they're dong for home buying these days.

I'm just saying be honest, have integrity, don't get greedy, stick to what you said you were going to do. That's to you. Don't let these guys out here who want to see high values for every car sold sway what you're doing. They could screw it up for you. The corollary to buyer beware is seller beware. If you sell the car for less than you could have squeezed out of it you're still happy that you got your price. And the new owner is happy that they got a good deal.

I think that he's just decided to he wants to put new rubber in. Not unreasonable, if the bushings were readily available we'd be saying "why not?". I imagine that they can't be found because Nissan had a very low inventory of them, because they're almost never ever replaced.

This thread illustrates one of the interesting problems with the site. Are these cars collectors items, like old antiques, that people are buying for investment purpose? Or trophies of conspicuous consumption? Or are they cool old sports cars that we're buying to enjoy, drive repair and improve? The big arguments come between people who want to pump up or prop up the value, and people who want to see people use the cars. I still go back to the basic fact that tse4me is just here for the money. And the guys who offered to buy it are here for the car. Now, whether or not the guys who are buying are buying for the car or the investment value is another issue. Just seems disingenuous to get involved so that somebody can make more money from a member and then never come back again. tse4me will be long gone once he gets that cash. Edit - and that comment about saving the car from a V8 seems fabricated. tse4me didn't know anything about the cars. He just stepped in to a lucky situation.

There's something on eBay that might be worth a shot. $11. Who knows. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/datsun-240z-manual Here's some Carl Beck comments but they're a bit confusing. Literally, they say that 70 was two volumes, 71 was one volume, and 72 was two volumes then one. Not sure that's what he meant though. Also, it looks like the front cover doesn't have a year on it anyway. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/Books/FactoryManuals.html

Tell people what you've done and you'll get there faster. We don't know where you've been. You might consider just buying a crossmember with the mounts still in it. Probably cheaper than new mounts. They don't see a lot of abuse, unlike suspension bushings.

crankman, you just need to put those part numbers in to an internet search engine and see what you find. I think that people have had success with Nissanpartsdeal. 11345-N3000 https://www.google.com/search?q=11345-N3000&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS584US584&oq=11345-N3000&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bushg-eng-mount~11345-n3000.html http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56407-engine-mounting-busings/#comment-505507

I seem to recall some contacts under the horn button or under the steering wheel itself. Can't remember if they're electrical or mechanical or both. But they get gummed up and don't work right. If you haven't had the horn button and/or steering wheel off, it might be a good place to start. I'd post a link to pictures in the FSM but they kind of overlook that part of the system. Can't find any.

Wise for who? Why get involved? Edit - of course, I'm involved now too. But now we have another "tainted" Z. Best to just let these things play out. The guy that's selling will be gone. The guy that's buying will still be here. Kind of screws things up for everybody involved.