Zed Head

You can spin the rod inside the clevis (fork) using a pair of pliers (edit- from under the dash, everything else still connected), after loosening the lock nut. You might leave a mark on the rod but it's doable. There should be a strong spring on the pedal that pulls it up. Sometimes bleeding brakes can take a long time to get right.

The fuse wouldn't be blown, just barely connected. Same with the fusible link. The current flow causes heat which causes expansion which causes movement which breaks the electrical connection. Could just be the ends not making good contact. You could look at the diagram on BE-33 and pull the three possible fuses (all 10 A) that are shown, with the key On. One of them might cause what you see. Do the same with the fusible links.

Nissan made some big changes from 76 to 77 if the wiring diagrams are correct. I get the impression though that where the meter is tied in doesn't matter much, which makes sense. It just offers a clue, a better one in your case. In 76 there were all kinds of things branched off the VM source wire. In 77, not much.

I'm not sure what I was looking at re my first comment. Have to dig later. This diagram shows a fusible link in line with the meter, as CO suggested, and a fuse. Might be the same fuse that controls the lights. The diagram below it on BE-33 gives some options although I can't follow the maze myself.

I didn't even think about why the voltmeter wire would run through the flasher. Not very rigorous. But that's what the wiring diagram showed. I thought. Might have messed it up. I think that there's a fuse for the running lights. Might be overheating and opening. Cools down and close. The voltmeter doesn't really draw much current at all. Almost none. But I'd still trace the path of the wire that moves the needle.

I think it was CO that noted that if the lines match the timing is on. I assumed it would be at zero. Either way, the lines are by the screw you loosen to adjust timing. Scribed or molded in to the base and mount. At least on the 240Z and 280Z. Not 100% on the ZX but most likely there. Line them up and you should be good, assuming, of course, that the oil pump shaft is right and all of that.

Enough room to slide the transmission out from under the body is enough to get the job done. Measure before setting your jack stands, it's a pain to realize you can't get the trans. out becuase the car's not high enough. I used the scissor jack that came with the car to hold the back of the engine. It's screw mechanism allows fine adjustment of the engine angle. Don't let the fan hit the radiator if you tilt the back of the engine. Somebody, CO maybe, says that they bench-pressed their transmission in to place. You might start working out now if you plan to use that method. Test fit your new pilot bushing on the nose of the transmission shaft before installing. Tolerances seem rangy these days on store parts. I had one that wouldn't fit in to the crankshaft, had to chip it out after it got stuck halfway. A replacement fit fine. Buy two and return one if you don't need it. Consider the clutch, it might need replacement.

Looks like the voltmeter wire runs through the hazard flasher. A common element. Might check there. There's a fuse involved too. Follow the wire. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/F77ZCAR-WIRING1.pdf

Looks like an 80's later model. One exhaust hanger and the reverse lockout plug. Should be a good one. Here's a picture showing where the impingement happens. That's not the shift lever the factory gave it, but it should work fine in your 280Z.

You never did show a picture of the whole unit. Early and late have differences, easiest to see is the number of exhaust hangers on the tail housing. I'm going to guess it's a 79 5 speed. 79 had a whole range of diff ratios available, including 3.7.

Which shop? We have several members from that area who'd know what's what and who's who. There are people out there with reputations that are unwarranted. The internet is an amazing tool.

Did you run it through the gears and spin the shafts? It's possible to put them back together with two gears engaged at the same time. And the early, solid, shift levers tend to touch/obstruct at the base if used on the newer 5 speeds. You'll see a little mark at the base of the lever, above the pin, in the front after some shifting in to 5th. Some people grind or file some clearance. Might be easiest to do while it's out. There are pictures on the site somewhere, it's been discussed. Fingers crossed for the mystery transmission...

The distributors come with marks to get static timing close, either two lines or a line and some numbers. Then you can remove the cap to make sure the rotor is pointed the right direction, and the spark trigger (points opening or reluctor edge on magnetic pickup) are in the correct place. Which distributor and ignition system are you using?

If you use Topics Last 24 Hours under the Activity heading instead, the eBay ads don't show. Mike fixed it. You can go beyond 24 hours by clicking Load More Activity at the bottom.

You should just block the yellow hose path. The yellow hose would allow the pump to pull too much coolant from the back of the head, and less through the radiator. Causes overheating. Your carb manifold should have a thermostat anyway. There was just whole discussion about it with jxq. They're described in the Fuel Modifications book in Downloads.

Those are all hydrocarbon based. Just spit on it, or use soapy water. It's not a huge deal. And the type of rubber and the application matters also. The booster seal doesn't move much and the part that does, the accordion shape, probably isn't the part you'll be lubricating. Plus it's in a protected area, unlike a CV boot (which is packed with grease and exposed to the elements). Just saying, it's worth consideration, but after doing so, keep it simple. No offense Mark, if the Silglyde is handy definitely use it (I have a small can of a different brand in the garage myself), but I wouldn't make a special trip to the store for a booster seal. Just me. WD-40 is petroleum based also. That was my suggestion, on one of the two other forums you've posted in. http://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/sku_msds_537.pdf

What's happening here, is a small business starting? FutoFab should be partnering up. Aren't they called biertjes in Holland?

I used a one ton chain hoist from the rafters, and moved the car. The beauty of the chain hoist is that it doesn't leak down, and it pulls much closer to itself than a come-along,and is very finely adjustable. The rafter was a triple thickness beam at the intersection of two roof surfaces. Very sturdy. Although a 4x4 will spread the load across several rafters also.

I wondered about that. The pciture of the swap kit, the first one, shows the hose attaching to what definitely looks like the bleed screw port though, so they found a way around it. Why would they leave a big aggravation in their kit? Don't get it. I'd just stick apiece of wood between the pistons after rotating the caliper on one mounting bolt. Doesn't matter what you're squeezing on. Oh well, it's hard to put yourself in the customer's shoes sometimes. At least they offer something.

You asked for advice. I suggest starting out with positives in your description. Not "One of the wheel caps is missing"! I'd list all of the Series One, early 240Z bona fides first. That's going to be your type of buyer, probably. Hit them with the Serial number right off the click. I'd attach a video link of the engine running also. Maybe even a moving shot. p.s. You misspelled Zedd Findings.

You have the BIg Brake Upgrade. Not sure if you could have just swapped ports. Still odd that they would send them out plumbed wrong.

Looks like Silvermine used the bleeder as the input and the input as the bleeder. In their web picture anyway. Odd.

I know that the wheel cylinders are different from early to late. I have 78 rear brakes on my 76. I'd guess that the location of the hole is different. Can't remember for sure on the hole, but I'm certain the cylinders are different. Single piston, sliding, versus double piston. I also had to replace a line for the same reason, but I bent my own using a prefitted straight line from OReilly, and a board and some long wood screws as a bending fixture. Just set the old line on the board and drive screws in at the bending points. Then lay the new line in and bend it to fit the curve. I measured the length of straight line I needed with a piece of string. It wasn't difficult and actually kind of enjoyable. A tip on getting the old fitting out, if you haven't - file new parallel flats on the nut and clamp a good pair of clean-jawed Vise-Grips on it. If the problem nut is at the junction you can apply heat without too much concern. It's all metal. If it's at the cylinder, just spend a lot of time getting the grip tight on the nut. If it starts to slip, stop and start over. It will snap loose like it's breaking but won't .

Where'd you get the new one? So the rest of us can avoid it. I've read about some of the early solid-state VR's having problems but it seemed like they had them fixed.

Toyota put the starter for their V8 Tundra engines under the intake manifold. And gave them poor copper contacts in the solenoid. A friend of mine has starting dread every day now, but doesn't want to spend the money to have it fixed and isn't a car guy. I offered to help him fix it but he's just going to live with it until he gets stuck somewhere.