Zed Head

And the link that Steve showed is for 280Z's. Better be careful.

I forgot about that. It's funny though, the wiring diagram shows a bulb in the circuit, before the regulator. Excerpt below from 1973. One of the pre-voltmeter people would know more.

Here's that reference. It's not very good, since it's really referencing voltage drop. Actually it doesn't make much sense. It's for the CS130, which is what Steve linked you to. If that application worked, yours probably will be fine. http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ONLINETECH/CS130DREG.html

The bulb in the L wire on your car is a resistor. I have read though that the CS alternators don't like too much current on the L wire. I'll see if I can dig up the reference. I searched "cs144 pin out" and looked at images.

The wiring diagram shows an EGR relay wire that's BW, in that area. Does the wire have power with the key On? And the 1976 wiring diagram shows a condenser attached to the Ballast, like yours is now. Could be that's not even an ignition system wire.

"Spitronic"? Is "spit" the way "injection" translates from Dutch? @ ing superlen... @superlen He might be out there. Once you're free of OEM EFI box you'll be looking for more power. Cams, head work, yada yada...

Just found this on the old interweb. #35. "F" is probably for monitoring alternator condition. You need to use "L". I'd guess. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=528474&page=2

Did you measure voltage at the two T plug wires to be sure it's there? Key On. And where did you get the diagram for the CS144 plug? If you're only using two, maybe F is the wrong one on your CS144.

The blower and signals seem to share a fusible link. Can't tell which one, they're not labeled in the diagram. Probably Acc. Check those connections.

Looks like he crashed in to that wall and just left it. Free quarter panel and roof, but they look fine in the pictures. It's an odd one, the buyer will be basically buying it for the low VIN. HLS30-00932 - $8000

Seems like fun entertainment. I've had those kinds of problems before. They're fun until they leave you stranded somewhere. Or you get an expensive ticket for failure to signal. Feelings will only get you so far. If you're lucky the final fail will be close to home. Good luck.

You could browse the wiring diagram, or the smaller versions in the Electrical chapters. Wiggle some wires in the meantime. Loose connections might be the cause of all of your problems.

Cool. Thanks Chas. Much easier to find now. I "commented" in the Download area and linked back to this thread, for the back-story..

I've found that is you want a photo, people are more likely to get one for you if you provide one yourself, first. An even exchange. Aside from that, it doesn't really matter as long as the electrical circuit is connected to the coil's positive post. Use a meter and make sure that the B/W wire is actually connected to the positive post.

The outer holes, or slots, aren't very accurately placed. I've dinked around with several manifolds. Even with the three center bolts in, the manifold has a bit of wiggle room. The curved surface of the clamping washer seems designed to take up the misalignment. Good luck. There's not much room to work in there. The sleeve idea is a good one, maybe you can jam it to one side to center over the stud remnant. If I was going to do another I'd try that.

Forgot to say, one sign is that the tach needle doesn't follow engine speed exactly. So if you see that needle jump but don't hear the engine speed up...not good.

The tach behavior is a sign that the igniton module might be going bad. You might try the GM HEI swap. It's cheap and you can actually do a temporary install by the coil to check it out. If you want to do a clean permanent install, check this thread out.

Hey EuroChas, I am about to link to this thread for someone that might be having a module problem. I'm pretty sure that your .pdf file is not in the Downloads area. Do you want to give it a look-over and upload it? It's definitely worth a spot there, probably in Tech Articles. @EuroDat

p.s. went and looked at my old 76 4 speed and there's a boss for the switch but it's not even drilled.

Are you assuming that the neutral switch is normally open? I've never heard of one. And, on using the FSM for information - I checked my 76 FSM and it says that I too should have a neutral switch, but I didn't. And it doesn't indicate the top gear switch even though the Electrical chapter shows it, and I did have one. So that source is suspect. Could be that there's no such thing. Translation error maybe. I can't find anything that even indicates what a neutral switch circuit would be used for. No lights or emissions stuff shown. I've never seen one discussed on anything but an Automatic car. Good luck. You could always use a closed switch to actuate a relay if you need a normally open function for something.

I suggested engine vacuum just as a way to see what full advance would be and to verify that everything, including the breaker plate in the distributor, is functioning. It's a simple quick test, intake vacuum at idle is very high and will max it out. If you want to generate a curve like those in the FSM then the pump is the way to go. Don't forget that there are two parts to vacuum advance, the diaphragm in the actuator and the breaker plate. The diaphragms get brittle or stiff, and can split, and the breaker plates get stuck.

What's the back-story? Blow up an engine? You might add some usage info. New, slightly used, XXXX miles, etc. Some of those parts can be had new for decent prices.

I'm overdoing it but last thing - use carpartsmanual and find the part number. Looks discontinued but somebody will have it. Looks like zcardepot has them. https://zcardepot.com/electrical/switches-and-relays http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-case/4-speed/from-sep-71 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2181

But 73 has two. Fascinating!