Zed Head

In general, the automotive manufacturers put much time and money in to designing and testing parts, for performance and durability. Aftermarket suppliers generally put their time and money in to producing a similar appearing product that works long enough to get past the warranty period. The cynical view. I thought that cavitation was a problem with the L6 system. The cast versus stamped discussion covers almost every car brand out there. You can search the Google and find all kinds of reading. I tend towards the factory design generally unless there's evidence shown for a change. Nobody has ever advertised improved performance from the flat stamped steel blades, from what I've seen. Hard to imagine going away from flat and square, if it works, to an intricately curved cast blade, but not totally implausible. Side note - if you misspell performance very badly, "necromancer" is suggested as the word you meant.

I was actually going to suggest using the savings on cooling system improvements. Consider the size of the two radiators to see which does more work (or releases it as heat for those physics people out there). You might also consider the potential downsides - more places for oil to leak, and a more brittle oil pan, One missed speed bump or curb and you can be out $500 and have the car down for a while.

No polarity. The ground is after the reverse light so the body of the switch is insulated, not grounded. To zKars's point - use a heat sink on the base of the terminal, to save the insulation. Pretty sure I just crimped my new wires on, but soldering would work. Page BE-16 shows the whole circuit but here's the short one.

It's just a switch. You might consider new, flexible, wires, I've found that the old wires are all stiff from years of heat and getting washed by dirty road water. Probably why they break, any wire movement puts all of the stress on the connection point.

Your oil passages and bearing clearances will be the same though. Sounding like you don't really need the pan or the cooler.

If you remove the belt then just put one loop over the pulley that you're working on, you can squeeze the two sides of the belt tight with one hand and work the wrench with the other. Or, you might be able to just push on the belt with one hand to tighten things up while working the wrench. The first method works well though. Same principle as those rubber belt (strap) oil filter wrenches. You could use one of those too if you have one. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html

Measure voltage at the T plug with the key on. Your L wire might not be providing power. That would be the blue to W/B. The yellow wire is the S(ense) wire. Could be that the lack of power at the L wire was your original problem. The bulb in the voltmeter can burn out and cause this problem. Or if you don't have the gauge installed. You can work around by using one of the other wires at the plug. But you won't have a Charge lamp.

Recheck your wiring. Looks like you cut the plug off of the old external regulator and used it for the connecting, but I can't see the wire colors on the harness side. Use the write-up here, It's for a 77. Not having a diode won't stop charging from happening. It's the power missing from one of your wires that is the problem. You should have power on both with the key on. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

Stick these words in the search box and some good threads will show up - "proportioning valve rebuild".

There's a paragraph in the FSM about how to test operation. Replace if bad. But how to take them apart and clean them, and what's been found inside, has been described here before.

Good news. Now you can start thinking about modifying. 85 mph is just a start. I'm positive that my engine is smoother and has more power after I wash the car. The transmission also shifts better and the radio is clearer. Strange but true. Not sure how it works.

I got the fragment of picture I posted from the 1972 Brake System chapter. They call the "T" a 3-way connector. Page BR-5. Shows all of the stuff that's missing.

This popped in to my head the other day - I used to work with vacuum pumps and we would modify the exhaust ports with a piece of large water pipe filled with steel wool. The wool gave the vapors a place to condense and drain back in to the pump but let the gases flow through. Without the modification when you turned the pump on and it was evacuating it would often blow oil vapor out of the exhaust port. Used the same concept on the breather valve for my diff. Filled it with a piece of Scotchbrite. It stays clean now.

My 76 has what looks like two broken plastic mounts by the brake and clutch MC, as site suggested. Might go there if you're talking about your 76. If they came with the 78/79 motor, they might bolt on to the bottom shield, like the small one on the 76 bottom horizontal shield. There are drawings in the Engine Mechanical chapter, disassembly section. Looks like a vertical shield, not horizontal. Those hoses would go to the "magnet valves" (solenoids) for the AC.heating system. The vacuum bottle supplies the valves, which then control the system. IF the hoses still have their little tags on them, with letters, leave them on. They tell you what's what. In the 1976 AC chapter. With the motor out and in front of you stud extraction shouldn't be too hard. Just work slowly and be careful. Start a drill in the center of the stud and get a good hole drilled. If I was working on one, based on my last experience, I'd fabricate a drilling jig to guarantee the hole was square to the head. My eyeballing just isn't that good. People have had good luck with reverse direction drills. Worst case you just drill bigger and bigger until you end up peeling threads from the hole. That's how one of mine went, in the car, working sideways. If you loosen all of the bolts on left and right you can get enough wiggle room to get everything in its hole. Then tighten and torque. The rear cylinders are spendy for the early cars.

Shouldn't take much. Hopefully it's been off recently so he doesn't break any studs. You are talking about Detail A, right?

You're right, it should be parallel, and it should also be small, if any gap at all. The flange gasket has two metal rings that do the actual sealing but after torquing the bolts, the gap closes pretty tight around the edges, to about gasket thickness. Not uncommon for the header pipe to get bent if somebody runs over a curb or a speed bump. I had a bent one that gave me problems for quite a while. Found an unbent piece and replaced it. So much better to have the parts aligned properly.

I think that he needs to distinguish between the "T" and the "valve". He hasn't really said what he's looking for. Seems like with all of the mods that we do and lowering and variety of brake pads out there that eliminating the factory valves altogether and replacing them with a true adjustable proportioning valve would be the way to go. I changed my front pads to ceramic a few thousand miles ago and I'm sure that it affected the ratio, front to back. The new pads don't have as much grab. But the wheels do stay cleaner. Probably eating up my rotors though. Digression.

The "T" and the proportioning valve aren't the same thing. There's one of each back there.

Post the Hybridz link and somebody could probably tell you if it's trustworthy. That is an odd spec. though.

What's a timeline, and what is Tapatalk? They don't show up in the Last 24 Hours page. Mike fixed it. And if you post your request as a Suggestion or a Bug, Mike will be more likely to see it. Not sure he does Chit-chat. http://www.classiczcars.com/discover/10/ http://www.classiczcars.com/tracker/

Nice. Some engineer out there probably cut his tolerances too close to the edge. Could be you and I got some +, +'s or -,-'s. We got a bad stack.

If you mean that you turn the key to Start and nothing happens until the 3rd or 4th try, I've had that problem. You can twist the actuating rod (the flat rod that connects the key to the electrical switch) to get earlier action out of it. Just grab each end with a pair of pliers on each, and bend it in a twisting motion.

Well, I can erase this part but you'll have to do the other. Sometimes people don't realize how they look on the old interweb and need a nudge. There are forums that actually have rules about punctuation. Your post was ironic because you didn't "do it right".

I should apologize, I didn't understand what Crane was showing in their instructions. Added a another picture from their manual. Apparently yellow negative, red positive is how negative ground systems are connected also. I had an electronic GM HEI module go bad and it produced a spark, but it was a weak orange spark. Not strong enough to ignite the fuel-air mixture. Could be that your Crane box has gone bad. You can see the Run/On, and Start wires in their diagram. At least get a meter and confirm that you have those wires connected to coil positive.