Zed Head

The brake light will come on when engine RPM drop so low that the alternator isn't charging. So that might be a non-issue. Sounds like your engine just stops running well, almost like it's running out of fuel. Could be blockage in the fuel tank. If you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and put it somewhere that you can see it while driving, you'll know more.

I understand core charges also, but this one seems irrational, with no real calculation behind it. Picked from thin air. Just makes you wonder. Aside from that, it's a lost sale and drives a potential customer out to look at alternatives. So, big picture wise, they probably lose more than just the single AFM sale. Once you go CARDONE, you probably stay there until you get a bad part.. The only reason I @ these guys is so that they can tune the business to keep the customers happy. Staying quiet out here while people talk about why they didn't buy from MSA doesn't help anybody.

Have you considered reconsidering your core charge? Maybe get some economists to help? Risk/reward. opportunity cost, etc. You have a nice case study here of how the high core charge drove a customer to the less expensive alternative. $400 seems like it came from nowhere. It's more expensive than the rebuilt part, which makes no readily available sense. Also, has anyone considering buying cores? Many of us out here have old AFM's that we've picked up cheap, as spares. I often see good cores in the wrecking yard, with corroded electronics. No need to try to save them though because there's no market for the core. Off to the crusher. I'd probably send them to somebody $20 each, if they wanted them. Maybe even free if somebody asked.

It's a philosophical discussion at this point. Calculating the number of teeth in the mouth of the dead horse we're beating. Comparing Jai, who joined to share her car and experience with the club, and to get some help with it, to a guy who joined only to sell his car isn't quite right though. Not really the same type of people, I'd say. And saying that somebody got taken advantage of because they sold their car for less than they could have squeezed out doesn't make sense. If you were the buyer, would you offer him that difference? An extra $7000 just to be fair, because you know it's the right thing to do? If not, then the argument doesn't really hold up. I'm not arguing just to argue, I just enjoy a good philosophy discussion. Hope nobody is getting disturbed., No offense intended. Maybe tse4me will come back and share the story of the sale of his car. That would be nice of him, considering the help he got here. @tse4me

The system is supposed to add 27% more fuel than the base pulse when the full throttle switch in the TVS is actuated. The other consideration is cam profile, which is designed to really kick in at about 3000 RPM, I believe. If you hit the gas at 2000 RPM, it might be that 1000 RPM climb that you're really waiting on. You might just need to drop down a gear.

Make sure you get a good FPR if you get an adjustable one, like shown in the picture. Many of the aftermarket units leak down as soon as the pump shuts off.

All I'm really saying above is that this whole thing is a matter of opinion. I like to see people get good deals. Here's the other other side also - people can chime in when they think the asking price is too high. That would be fair, according to some of the opinions expressed here. Let's see what happens when somebody does that.

Sure, you can talk values, morals, principles, philosophy, etc. How far should we go? Should we police the internet to make sure every seller gets maximum value, for their families? He offered the car for a number and the offer was met. He said "for Sale". How much leeway do people get? My initial point, way back in the thread, was that everything was fine at Post #1 and a few after, until people started chiming in with their opinions of what the car should sell for. He could have sold it for his high number, left and not come back, and somebody here would be happy. You can argue the other side and say that somebody lost the opportunity for "joy" for themselves because they couldn't afford to buy their dream car, after people not involved got involved. It's a big old circle. He didn't mention tuition until he needed to backtrack. Overall though, that's the risk of these forums. People can chime in as much as they want until someone decides that their comments are abusive. Still waiting to see who got it. It is/was a nice car.

I never really thought about the CSV action when testing the fuel pressure. You're saying that the disconnecting the starter solenoid to test pressure, but with the CSV still connected, and engine cold, allows the CSV to dump fuel when testing? Dang, all these years of incomplete advice, I feel bad. Your CSV must allow a lot of fuel though, to get a pressure drop. How long does it take to build pressure from zero? Plus all of that fuel probably sat in your intake manifold all night, giving you the quick start the next day.

He hasn't been back since the 8th, about 24 days ago. As was noted, once he sells the car he's gone forever. It would be interesting to see who got it.

Maybe it just needs a good thrashing.

He gave details in #395. Phones... Still fascinated by the piston design, with the ridges and the thin top ring land. Detonation is a big problem with these engines. Have you (Takhli) built many L series engines or are you breaking new ground here? Just curious.

This issue? You tested the relay?

Just curious about who picked the parts and how they decided. What the goal is. Sounds like you're using the basic "How To Rebuild" and "How To Modify" recommendations. Looks like fun. Good luck.

The "wait a minute and it restarts" is typical of bad ignition module. I notice that you didn't say "new" about the distributor. If everything works correctly except that the engine won't restart right away, that's a sign of the module overheating.

What would be the point of that?

He said that he swapped to a ZX distributor, back in #20. Hard to tell what's happening.

#1 - don't think in terms of "ripping". Check the main circuits in the EFI system. The connections by the battery, both positive (fusible links) and negative sides. Check the the fusible link connections under the two white covers also. Is it behaving the same way as ther last time it was dying or is it different now? Before you said the tach needle was rising and falling and acting weird. Now you say it drops like a rock. Could be your new distributor. Can't remember if you said it was new or used. Considering all of the other odd electrical problems with the blower motor and alternator, it's hard to make a good guess. If you notice any other details besides the engine dying and the tach dropping they would be clues.

Actually, that's not the opposite. Anyway, the wheel just sits on top of the column. The signals and everything else are below it. The horn pad is mounted to the wheel. It'll work. The only electrical contact is a round contact on the bottom of the wheel. A little copper spring-loaded contact slides on it as the wheel turns. Stole this picture from here - http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-competition-steering-wheel-with-datsun-horn-pad-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z-510-skyline-and-more

Well, that's a bummer. I have an Airtex E8312 pump and a modified Bosch FPR and my pressure typically drops to ~25 psi then just sits there. I've popped fuel lines on old 280Z's and ZX's that had obviously sat for a long time and found good pressure. Clamp the lines individually and you'll know which end has the problem. On starting difficulty in cold weather - I've found that if I crank the engine for about 5 or 6 turns then wait about 20 seconds for the fuel to vaporize the engine starts up much more easily. If I try to get it to go by letting it crank away it seems like just a waste of battery and starter life. I removed my CSV years ago, so it's all injector supply.

If you get on to the MSA site and search "steering wheels" you'll find that they sell a bunch that fit 70-83 model years. Odds are in your favor.

Maybe he's a member and saw the post. It said $400 the first time, and mentioned the transmission. Not so much of a deal now. Never mind.

A hair or piece of rubber maybe got blown through the FPR. I had one that would drop pressure occasionally. You should put that 5 speed in. See if you saved it.

Can't tell if you're asking if the 240Z horn pad will work on a 280Z wheel or if the 240Z wheel will work on a 280Z. Ambiguous. These links might give some clues. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-wheel Looks like the column (and the nut, other link) never changed so the wheel should seat on the shaft end. So the wheel should work as a whole with the horn pad, I'd guess. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column

Not uncommon for the FPR to have an iffy seat, that doesn't always seal. It's just a metal tube pressed against a flat piece of metal. And the check valve in the pump is just a ball and seat design. Both are are all metal, no rubber, so any small piece of debris can hold them open. The injector seats are the same, so a tiny piece of grit can cause problems. Seems like you might just be bored and creating problems for yourself. [Zing!] It happens The spray patterns for the 280Z injectors are typically just a narrow stream. No real pattern. Primitive.