Zed Head

No need to pull the diff. You can mark the tires and the input flange and turn the wheels. Turn both wheels one revolution and count how many times the input flange turns. If you lay under the diff you can reach both tires at the same time while looking up at the flange. As long as they both end up where they started the math will be right.

Too much fuel? No fuel now that you fixed #6? You had the engine apart. Have you verified all timing events, cam timing and ignition timing? No offense, but your trials with the power wire to the fusible link show that you may not be as familiar with how things work as you should be. I get the impression that you're assuming that you put everything back just like it was so it should start up just like it did. But you already missed one important wire. I'd go back and check all of those important things. Write them down and tell us what they are. You'll probably find the problem while you're doing that.

They don't usually stick open because there's a spring inside that shuts them. Could still happen but could also be an electrical problem, a short to ground on the ECU side. Unplug it and check that the terminals in the plug aren't grounded. The Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM has an excellent description of how things work, with diagrams.

This is a pretty easy one to think through. How can one cylinder get more fuel than the other cylinders? What provides the fuel to the cylinder?

Sometimes the seals will have part numbers on them that identify the size and materials used, even if the brand is defunct. The seal form, depth, diameter, and material type are often buried in the part number. A good seal and bearing shop could measure it for you and find one that will work. I found an old furnace pump seal that way. They didn't even blink, just looked at it and went to the back room.

It's not good for an alternator to use your alternator to charge a dead battery. You should charge the battery before trying to start the car. One dead battery + one charged battery = one partially-charged battery.

People say that's a sign of one of the shaft nuts coming loose. The CS nut, I think. There are threads out there on various forums. You have to pull it apart to fix it.

I think that Mark went directly to what might be the real problem. What you described is an electrical circuit that is made, then broken for no apparent reason. If you make the contact by pushing the horn button, what causes it to go away? You didn't let up on the button. And Terrapin's pictures show what is even more likely, I think. Rusty, dirty contacts will open up as they heat up from current flow. That contact is supposed to be always made, even as the wheel turns. I think that you could check that one by pressing the button and turning the wheel. You might get several beeps or it only beeps in one spot. I had that problem on a Pathfinder, the contact had just worn away. 240,000 miles on it. It was a different design but had the same purpose.

Follow the white wires from the fusible link sockets. The thing with the white square plastic cap on it. One of them should go to the starter lug. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf

No harm, no foul! If the tool is the same, undamaged, after its unintended usage, you've added value. Vise-Grips probably started as a pair of pliers with a C-clamp on the handles. Bubba doing R&D.

Nah. Washington was a popular guy. OR not MN.

There's not a lot to the "mechanism:". A spring holds one metal piece away from another metal piece. When the two metal pieces touch, the horn beeps. If it beeps it should keep beeping. Was your mechanic really focused on it or did he just make an offhand comment? And how was he making it beep? Not really clear that you had the complete assembly together and were pushing it as a normal horn button, or doing something else. I thought your horn button was falling apart anyway.

I circled in red where I think your problem is. you left a wire disconnected maybe. Follow the power path. The wire you're looking for is white and thick and will have a ring terminal. Here's another page from site's link - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf Edit - had the wrong year before.

I've done numerous disdainful things. I don't think the press would have the leverage. I'd use a mallet on the shaft and brace the table. Maybe drop it down on to some wooden blocks. Inertia is your friend.

You bring up another option. If he has a drill press he might be able to stick the shaft up through the bit relief hole, block/fixture around the bearing and either use the press as a lever or drop the table down and pound on the shaft.

I'd post a lizzle to the wizzle pizzle. Or a link to the product page. Just for conversation, if nobody actually is using it.

I think that you can use a piece of appropriately sized pipe, diameter and length, to install the bearing. On pullers - I've had to use a clamp to hold the jaws of a two-jaw puller closed, on the CS bearing, when they kept slipping. Accidentally turned it into a bearing splitter. Just an anecdote.

If you have the fabrication skills, you could probably extend the jaws on a regular small bearing puller using steel strap or rod. Three long pieces of steel. Get some tension on it, then heat it, then tap it. Combine all of the tips and techniques.

Try running through the gears under acceleration keeping your hand firmly on the lever. See if all of the gears feel the same or if 2nd feels different.

I'm not trying to make you look bad, but are you saying that there is no power to the switch? Or just no power to the starter and Crane box? You keep saying the same things but you're not really communicating anything. If you have no power to any of the wires that go to the switch then forget about the Crane box, and the starter. They get their power through the ignition switch. No power to the switch = no power from the switch. And there's nothing special about the Crane system. It doesn't get "energized". It just needs a power source, as does the coil. You should be measuring power at the coil terminals, with the key On, not the Crane system.

Here's a though, and a question - when the shift lever is moving in to second gear does it move up or down? could be that the internals of the transmission are moving, causing the shift lever to move. In other words, the coupling sleeve is moving back and forth on the synchroniser hub for some reason. If only second gear does it, and none of the others, then it's not likely to have anything to do with the mounts. It would do it in all gears if that was the case. Could be that you're seeing the first signs of a future failure. Along the same lines as post #15 - can you stop the movement with your hand? If you can hold it where it should be then it could just be a detent problem. But if you can't then it's probably something significant forcing the coupling sleeve to move. The shift forks sit in a groove in the coupling sleeve. The sleeve would move the fork, which would move the rod and lever.

Take voltage measurements, or use your test light, at the plug to the ignition switch until you find at least one wire with battery power. If you don't have any power at the switch it won't help to run any extra wires from the switch. A methodical approach is best, especially when you're not sure of what you're doing.

Doesn't look like you're really understanding how the power flows through the wires and various parts. You said that there's no power to the switch, but you replaced the switch three times anyway, even though it was receiving no power. How can it do its job if there's no power there? The problem apparently happened after working on the wiring, the kill switch and external starter. Go back to that area and figure out what you did. The Crane ignition has little to do with anything. Tying off wires doesn't really make any sense. Some of those wires might need to be connected. Did you do the interlock at the same time as the kill switch and starter? Not sure what all the stuff at the end is supposed to mean. You should be measuring voltage at various points along a circuit to see when it's there and when it's not. A meter or test light is needed.

Wasn't trying to offend you. People get lost on these kinds of projects all the time though. You don't seem to be reading the stuff we're referring you to. No biggy, it's more fun to tear stuff down and see what's in there, I get it. On the loose metal comment I was just talking about your driving experience, before and after. You didn't know you had a problem until you saw the bearing cage on the magnet. We see people "upgrading" things on the forum all the time and ending up with downgrades in driving experience. That's all I'm saying. You could end up with a new bearing and a poor driving experience because you lost a piece. Carry on and good luck.

Seems like you might get to a point where you think that you're moving too fast. If you do, I'd say you were right to think that. You've already found a mystery part, and probably came close to throwing away a very important shim. Dave WM spent a few posts, with pictures, talking about that mystery piece in his detailed thread. And the shim is described in the MT chapter. Just saying, you're on the edge. You had a transmission that worked well, just had some loose metal in it. You might end up with no loose metal and one that's noisy and difficult.