Zed Head

The switch at the brake pedal is a simple on-off switch, actuated by the pedal positon. It should have power to the connector at all times. That would be the simplest place to start I think. If there's no power there then you'll know which side to work on to narrow things down. Crawl up under the dash with a meter and see what you find.

Which switch? Which car? Have you checked the fuse? You should add your car description to your sig. It's in your profile.

Anybody using the Opera browser? I just downloaded it and set it up with bookmarks, and it's pretty nice. Google pissed me off when they wouldn't "recognize the device" I've been using for years to log in to a Gmail account, and would not use the other security methods. Phone only. I think it's a scam to keep all devices connected so that they can do more tracking. Google sucks.

I have the valance corner that connects to that cross piece that we all scrape on the parking bumpers. Actually have both in really nice shape, hanging in the garage. Doubt that I'll ever replace mine, but they looked too good not to get, when I was at the wrecking yard. If you can put a list together, I'll try to fill it. I have a paypal account. I'll put it in the PM's that I send. Rather not broadcast to the world, so please keep it private. I'm paranoid.

I bought a plain old parts store replacement radiator from OReilly auto. The mounting holes and flanges needed minor adjustment but everything else fit and it works great. I think that almost all of the steel replacement radiators are made at the same factory in China, and just have different names on them. That's probably the cheapest route, and if there's a problem you can just drive to the store and get a replacement.

I just remembered something that I'd read in the past about Fidanza flywheels - some of them are thinner than the stock flywheel, apparently So they'd need a taller collar and the 92mm number might not be enough. If you have the factory flywheel you'd have enough to figure it out.

I think that's where his steel rule is sitting. Looks right. Next check would be the MC, assuming that the system was properly bled. There are two seals in the MC, one to move the piston and generate pressure, the other to keep the fluid inside if the first piston fails. If you didn't already have it apart we would have asked you to press the pedal and measure how far the slave piston moved. Since it's apart, I'd try to rig up a device that will hold the slave piston in its bore and see if pressing the clutch pedal forces it to move. Might take some ingenuity. But, the pressure plate and collar look like a good matched set. p.s. You know, if you put the wood on the top and the steel rule on the side you wouldn't have to do the conversion math. Just saying....

CO, do you promise to consider developing a method for using a late model MAF sensor in place of the AFM? At least I've planted a seed. I have at least one with a lean spot at low-to-mid RPM that I can send out. It needed the coolant sensor tweak to work well. I'll send you a PM when I get it out and boxed up. Odd, but the factory AFM's pass emissions here better than my MSA reman AFM, even with adjsuting the idle bypass. But the MSA reman' is smoother across the range. Maybe mine is unique, but it has made it a pain every two years. ensys, I don't have any bumper rubber. It would be on my 76 if I did. I have one tail light socket but I am waiting for the fix on my car to fail so I can use it. Don't be nervous to ask. I'm thinking of making a move and realize I have a lot of stuff that might end up at the scrap yard if I have to move quick. My car is pretty well sorted out, and things aren't breaking like they used to.

Is it out now? Take the measurement shown in my picture. Should be around 92 mm to the surface the fork rides on. You don't seem to be measuring anything in yours, the tape is just laying there. The bearing looks right.

And don't forget to add some heat to the parts as you're pulling them. Typically has a huge effect.

I wasn't clear on what you were trying to remove. Looks like the adapter plate is in the way for my suggestion. How about a cheap Harbor Freight bearing splitter? Designed in two pieces to fit around the shaft. Doesn't have to do any splitting but would give you the "suitable plate" shape to pull on. Here's an example. I think that they make cheaper versions. Maybe you can borrow one at OReilly Auto. Might give you ideas on some sort of collar that can do the same job, also. https://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html

I have a garage-load of 280Z parts. 1978 EFI harness and various relays. AFM hoses. A few AFMs. Some ECUs. Exhaust pipes, etc. Some R200s. Looking to reduce my hoard. If anyone has an obscure need, let me know and I'll try to figure out how to get it to you, for some small number, mostly to cover shipping and effort. I live in the Portland OR metro area, for the big stuff.

I have a vague memory of somebody describing a "puller" they devised using a long length of pipe, longer than the shaft. You stick the shaft down the pipe then drop the whole assembly on to a concrete floor, pipe end first. The inertia of the shaft pulls it free.

One advantage to rear discs might be that they'll be more consistent in pedal feel. I've noticed that I can tell when the adjuster in the back has moved to the next notch, with my drum brakes. But it's a lot of work for a small benefit. There's a whole range of pads out there to get more stop from the fronts. Not a lot of choice in the back though. That would be one more benefit. So, if you really want to put the effort in you could make a system that is more consistent and has more media choice. But, really, they're pretty good brakes. The front rotors are huge for the size of the car. I bought a pair at a wrecking yard and the girl at the counter tried to charge me for truck rotors.

Is there a letter stamped in to the back? Nissan ID'ed the cam profiles with a letter. Turbo profiles are generally different from NA, but the early turbo engines were pretty primitive. Nissan may not have used a unique cam profile. If you have the link to the eBay page we can inspect the pictures. It would be a straight swap, and would work even if the profile is different.

You have some nice parts. Not really clear what you're adjusting though. "Increased the levels" could mean almost anything. Air-fuel ratio is the amount of air over the amount of fuel. So 15 is leaner than 10. More air, less fuel for 15 than 10. Assuming that the parts are worth saving, you might consider getting some help. Even the stock turbo engines are prone to detonation. An L6 built for performance could probably blow itself up much much easier. You don't know what you have. It might not even be built for pump gas. If it was my money and time, I'd figure out as much as I could about what I had. Measure cylinder pressure, it is a clue about compression ratio. Look for ID marks on the camshaft. Figure out what type of turbo you're using. People blow up the Nissan L6 turbo engines on a regular basis.

It was still hanging from the plug wire? How did you not see it?

180 is normal for the Nissan L6. Your thermostat and radiator should be the controlling factor there, not your tune. Some people use exhaust gas temperature as a tuning aid. But not engine temperature. Actually, you should be waiting until the engine gets to operating temperature before doing any fine tuning, not watching it go up and down. Your injectors are almost 600 cc/min. That's way high. Most people shooting for high horsepower with their turbo engines use 440cc/min injectors. Supra injectors are common. Makes you wonder if the PO was building a drag strip car. Have you checked specs on the turbo? It might be overkill also. Cam specs? Compression ratio? Make sure the engine has a thermostat also. Race guys like to run without one, but their true purpose is to heat the engine up, then maintain that temperature. Could be why your engine temps don't stabilize. Not uncommon to pop the thermostat cover and find nothing in there.

An AFR of 18 is super lean. Coughing (unburnt fuel) would only come from a lean misfire. Your injectors should allow 525 HP. Doubt that your turbo'ed L6 is going to get there (no offense). Going too big on the injectors makes controlling idle AFR's difficult, because they squirt too much at the lowest controllable open durations. You could probably go to a smaller injector and get better tuning control. The stock 280ZX turbo injectors only flowed 25 lbs/hr (265 cc/min). Your choice is a bit exuberant. https://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

One area that I seem to remember that could be a deal-killer is the shafts themselves. If I recall right, the needle bearings ride directly on the shaft. So if they die and get ground up they can damage the shaft. Eurodat probably knows for sure. I think that if you had a needle bearing problem the gear involved would rock or move perpendicular to the shaft. Might give everything a good wiggle while you're measuring clearances.

Have you determined the source of the grinding noise yet? If some major part is broken you might be planning to fix the unfixable.

I would disconnect the VR and the alternator and see if the short stays. Then count the horse teeth. Just kidding SteveJ... Obscure philosophy reference....

Try disconnecting the Pertronix unit. It could be shorted. Fits the initial "rev" symptom, I think.

Like site said, the links only line up occasionally. They are there for installation only. First time. Once the chain moves they're not useful anymore. It's very common for the old ZX distributors to have broken parts inside. Also very common for people to use the wrong pedestal/base when they swap to a ZX distributor. Take the distributor apart and you might find that it needs work. If it doesn't now it probably will later. They're not very durable.

The cam sprocket notch position, in your picture, relative to the groove, looks like the chain has some wear but not enough to adjust the sprocket. It looks okay. The cam timing has nothing to do with distributor shaft position. They are two totally separate timing operations. The drive quill, connected to the oil pump shaft, is what determines where the distributor's range of adjustment is. You have to relocate the oil pump drive shaft to change that. If you're only getting 8 degrees of advance mechanism movement there's something jammed up inside your distributor. The advance mechanism doesn't care where the starting point is. A typical distributor in good condition will move about 16 to 22 degrees from the starting point, just on centrifugal motion. So if you start at 15 you should easily see 30 degrees at above 3000 RPM. The upper limit varies, usually around 2500 - 3000 RPM. The vacuum advance is separate from the centrifugal advance. Seems like you might just have a bunch of small things to work on.