Zed Head

Wrongness. Don't do this stuff. OBX, MFactory, 87-89 300ZX. Whitehead Performance. Those are your fundamental search words.

The topic isn't really location dependent, is it? Wires is wires. Amps is amps. And after that it's really "don't run over 20 amps through a device that can only handle 20 amps". And 1N5402 is a diode, not a relay. Not to wizz on your post, new views are appreciated. The big gauge wires are generally used for the starter draw. As noted in a recent post., the starter motor draws a lot of current. Beyond that, a dead battery would probably be the biggest draw. Jumping dead batteries causes many problems. My radio in my other car reminds me often.

That's a good point about the Start versus Run power at the ballast. It will do a similar thing if the AFM contact switch is dirty or non-functional, but will run for a few seconds on residual fuel pressure. SeK, you should try the starting fluid. It will tell you a lot. And if it does start then die immediately, you need to say that. Won't "turn on anymore" could mean too many things. The answer is in the details. There is no "CPU icon" on a 76. Where is this thing located?

The damper has little effect on fuel supply. The system will get just as much fuel with it as without it. And the ethanol doesn't have much effect either. I've been running 10% ethanol for about 7 years and 50,000 miles. Sounds more like an ignition problem. Check for spark. If you have spark, try starting fluid. If it starts with fluid but dies quickly then you'll know you have a fuel supply problem. Could be lack of injection.

I've never heard of this problem. Usually they're just corroded from sitting inactive. Never read of such a detailed flaw in the design. Where did you get your info?

That's an odd solution to the problem since the TPS (more correctly called a TVS) only changes state right off idle if adjusted correctly and again at full throttle. Shouldn't be in the picture at all at 1600-1800 RPM. Red herring? Or maybe it's misadjusted.

Just seemed odd. Picture attached.

I would just find the original 1978 S and L wires and make it work with those. All alternators after about the mid-70's are the same at a basic level. The more modern ones have added features, like extra sensing wires for the ECU, but the S and the L are common. Find those two and you can make the SI work. The L wire does not also connect to voltage sensing, on the Z diagram. Edit - the L wire is the most important, because it runs through the Lamp in the voltmeter. It will tell you when the alt is failing. Worst case, find it from behind the dash and tap in to it.

That's not a bad idea, actually. The guts pull right out and you're left with a brass well/adapter for whatever you want to put in there. The ZCD part doesn't have temperature specs. It might just be the switch for the injector cooling fan, which is set at way high temperature. I spent some time looking for a switch that was set lower and found that BMW had several. Plus you might look at whatever the Ford Taurus uses since that's the popular E-fan setup. Get on the Google, find the temperature you're looking to start at, and make it work in the adapter the PO made for you. Edit - don't some fan controllers use a sensor, and a programmable, or settable, system? Might be better than just an on-off switch. Tunable.

Here are the two panels shown in the 76 FSM. They put one in Body Electrical and the other in Air Conditioner. Edit - oddly, the AC unit has an extra fan speed.

I wonder how much one of these companies would charge to wind up a custom set. A person could ball park a shorter spring and add some pounds to rate of the stock springs. Or look around to find Tokico specs. and ask for those. Might be worth a quote. Some have a catalog to browse. http://www.coilsprings.com/ https://www.springworks.com/custom-coil-springs/ http://mwspring.com/custom-springs.html https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/coil-springs/ https://www.centuryspring.com/

Eibach seems a lot like Vogtland. They don't actually have a product for the Z cars, but somebody has found some of their products that work. Maybe they get them mixed up at times. There's no sign of any Datsun products on their web sites - http://eibach.com/america/en/ https://eibach.com/de/en

The sensor might actually be a switch.

Probably BSPT. Pull out what's in there and measure it or take it to a decent fittings store. http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals

I've seen that "cooling fan" circuit before but never seen an actual fan. There are a few things in the 280Z diagrams that don't seem to exist, but they persist in the diagrams. Have you actually found the plug at the end of the wire? I've never seen it. According to the diagram that circuit starts at the fusebox and also runs the defogger. It's a 20 amp fuse. Most of the Z car plumbing is BSPT. It's stock, to Nissan, but it's not common. The stock factory fan and fan clutch work really well. No big benefit to an E-fan.

I missed your objective in my last post. I felt comfortable plugging mine with a bolt and some muffler sealing ceramic goop because I realized that the fitting does not see much pressure, just high temperature and many heat cycles I turned my bolt in to a self-thread-cutting bolt by grinding a notch in the threads, and putting a slight taper on the nose. It turned in with a comforting level of force required. It was tight when done. It's been there about 20,000 miles with no signs of leaks or loosening.

The big hose is for between the tank and the fuel pump. There is none in the engine bay, for fuel flow. " One way to proactively prevent this problem is by placing a fuel filter between the fuel tank and fuel pump. A Fram G3 disposable filter is the perfect choice: It has 3/8" fittings (the G3 is really G3/8"). This works well with the 10mm Nissan fuel hose. "

Much of the Z car's plumbing is BSPT, British Standard Pipe Thread. Very close to NPT but no cigar unless you use brass or copper so the threads can deform. Probably where your supplier got screwed up. The taper is different, and the size of the small taper can be also, making them hard to start even if you do plan to mash up the threads. http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals Read up on the oil pressure senders for more examples. I ran an M16 bolt in to the remains of an EGR tube, to plug it. Maybe you could make your own fitting by tapping the inside of the piece you pulled, to whatever thread you want. Bend your own tube. Essentially building your own EGR tube. Edit - McMaster Carr has a selection of BSPT stuff.

Post a picture. We love pictures. It's probably denser than oil and will just sink to the bottom, IF it even makes it there. It will probably just sit on top of the head, IF it cracks apart. But really, it's probably fine. Poke at it with a screwdriver, and see if it's friable (word of the day!). If it's not, why worry?.

Somewhere in the past somebody's trans got damaged by a GL-5 spec oil and ever since there's been the "all GL-5 spec oils destroy yellow metals" boogie man. There are GL-5 spec oils that work fine in yellow metal transmissions. But the safe bet is a fluid that specifically calls out manual transmissions, and/or yellow metals. There must be more on that mystery can of oil that the word "Shell". Big picture wise though, the transmission is sensitive to the fluid used. For a a few extra dollars you can avoid a lot of trouble.

So, basically, you rewired some wires that you already had wired and it started. I wouldn't see that you followed it step by step because I can't see your steps. Anyway, have fun and carry on.

So, problem fixed? Or grammar problem?

How? You have to tell what was wrong if a bunch of people have made suggestions. If you've read about GL-4 and-5 then you know that the wrong fluid can destroy your synchro gears. So the equation is - do you feel lucky? Is there a brand name and description for the oil or is it mystery fluid?

Which manual? Did you run the tests in the book from the link I provided? You're just reporting random things, like "Pin 10 has no power, Pin 1 has power". Report the results of specific tests and the test itself. Confirm that you have fuel pressure in the rail. Just because the pump makes noise doesn't mean that you have fuel pressure. Don't connect wires together unless you know what they are supposed to do. Try this simple test of the coil-Pin 1-ECU circuit and its operation. Connect a wire to the negative terminal of the coil. Let it hang in air. Turn on the key. Tap the wire end to ground. Every third tap should make the injectors click. You should get a spark for each tap also.

You've kind of come over to my side and are rephrasing what I said. Field results are data, the more specific the better. Anecdotes about "my buddy tried it and said it's "better" are 2nd hand stories, vaguely told. No offense to anyone who'd done that, but there's a principle called "cognitive bias" that describes how people generally think that that what they're doing or using is better. They see what they want to see. That's why we measure things and put numbers on them if we can.