Zed Head

I thought that the harness on the top came directly from the Passat. That's what my comment was about. Looks like a straight swap, six in one shot. p.s. what is that red piece of garden hose doing connected to your AAR? Holy moley...

I don't think that you can assume what the engineers were assuming. You'd assume that engineers would have assumed the same with carbs and ran a snorkel out of the engine bay if they thought it would help. Might be that it's just for lower intake noise.

More humor. Because we like to have fun here. Explanation shouldn't be necessary.

Your picture showed an old harness still connected. I didn't know that you had already mimiced the factory harness. My mistake.

I don't think that your statement about how Nissan intended the car to be a convertible is true. Do you have any sort of reference for that statement? That muffler tip is huge.

Get the VIN for the two 70's. It's on the dash panel in front of the driver, or the driver's door jamb, or the plate on the passenger side in the engine bay. That's where the value will be for those two.

Just thought this was odd. Looks like a decent car though. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1981-datsun-280z/6584086240.html

I recorded all of the Zeppelin albums on to red Radio Shack 8 track tapes.

I always wanted a Sunbeam Tiger. Somehow I ended up in Z world instead....

Never mind. Petroleum is the best carbon trap.

Apparently, the LA basin has been prone to bad air since the native americans owned it. It's a big bowl full of dead air.

Actually, it's been well documented that diesel fumes are carcinogenic. Health-wise, diesel engines should be outlawed. I'm sure that there will be lawsuits eventually. But, money is being made so we'll all just suck up those cancer particles in the meantime. Pretty fascinating to think about. Enough money involved and everyone pays with a little bit of cancer. Societal cancer. https://www.cancer.org/cancer/cancer-causes/diesel-exhaust-and-cancer.html

The simple direct answer is "yes, your picture looks off by about 8 degrees". Your damper might have slipped, or your method isn't precise. A hard piston stop would be more accurate. Mark both sides and split the difference.

Hey, isn't that backward? The notches will move down as timing advances, so the zero notch should be the bottom one and you'll get 5 degrees per notch by the light as timing advances. I tried to find a reference in the FSM but it says the zero is "to the left", and the picture shows a head-on view. I'm sure those notches will "drop" by the light though as you rev the engine, as the single notch does on the 280. So, he's only a few degrees off. At close to TDC you can move quite a few degrees with almost no piston movement.

Everyone's selling their Roadster. https://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/d/1967-roadster-datsun-spl/6599233899.html https://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/d/1968-spl-311-datsun-roadster/6599234359.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/d/1969-datsun-spl311-roadster/6603639661.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1969-datsun-1600-for-sale-or/6605844949.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1969-datsun-roadster-2000/6620896296.html

Like Dave says, music or piano wire will work. The hardest part is getting it bent without breaking it. Make sure you get the bends oriented correctly too, it doesn't twist in the sheath at all.

I think that you might have to buy a new set of lash pads to use that cam. It's probably ground on a smaller base circle. Might influence your decision. Plus, if your engine is not built to handle the higher RPM range, you won't be able to use its full potential without damaging the engine. http://schneidercams.com/290F_L6.aspx

How did you find TDC?

Where's the body? And the engine? Are you going full aftermarket performance or parting out a rust bucket?

Maybe you could do a big old cut and paste for us non-subscribers, non-sign-in-ers?

I suggested flooding because it could start on ether then the injectors would dump a bunch of fuel thinking that it's in the Arctic, if the CHTS was disconnected. But, confirming spark is always a good idea. Just noticed that it's a turbo also, which has the CAS to worry about. And the "ignitor", which can be replaced by a GM HEI module. The ignitors go bad, the CAS parts go bad. Lots of electrical gizmos to worry about to create a spark on the turbo system.

Here and here? You're saying that if one fits the other doesn't? I'd grind the inside interference before the outside mounting points. If I had to use those. But, were it mine, I'd just go back to the stock setup.

It has a fuse and it runs through a switch. It's a power supply line. So all you need to do is decide when you want it to have power. It's probably tied to the Accessory circuit somehow, maybe through a tap, since it's aftermarket, to the Acc relay. You can search for the original connector or make your own. Use an ohm meter to make sure that the circuit is not shorted. Turn the switch while you're measuring resistance, it should go from some resistance to open circuit as it passes the temperature set point, assuming the other end of the circuit is connected correctly. Put a 10 amp fuse in the little holder too and you should be safe. It will blow if you made a mistake.

No insight from actually using them. Are the pistons fully retracted? The hydraulic pressure will be the same no matter how far the pistons are extended, or mismatched, so you could make them work by taking material from the pad surface. One side's pistons will be more extended than the others, if I'm reading your problem right, but it won't affect performance.

The ignition module was in the cabin until 1979, when they introduced the ZX "match box" distributor module. We have pummeled the hot start topic in previous threads. Definitely heat-related, but seems to be general heat around the injectors. Happens without exhaust leaks..