Zed Head

You can hook up a GM HEI module without cutting any wires. Completely reversible. The ignition modules are designed to sense very small voltages, and the trigger is when it goes from negative to positive. When you disconnect the wire you must be changing the potential across the two contact points.

I just remembered that somebody had jumped the two terminals on my car, a Federal model. I assume that one of the pickup coils had gone bad and they converted it, basically, to a single pickup coil distributor. Or maybe they were going for multiple spark...

Seems like the grounding is through the ignition module, if it grounds. It's a sine wave. Maybe somebody "hacked" your system in the past to solve a problem. Pretty sure 75 is the same as 76. I had no extra grounds on my car and no extra grounds after I switched to a GM HEI module. Might be worthwhile to try an HEI module. Worth having as an emergency spare, either way.

That's the same one I posted. Just saying. Already at $12,000. 2 days left. That car is done though. So...buy a driver, ready to go, or buy a project, to work on.

Be careful with the breaker plate. The ball bearings are probably stuck and if you put to much force on it you might break the plastic bearing cage. The "slide/setter" has a lot of wiggle room even when it's new. Once you lock the spring clips down on the cap it doesn't move. It's not a precision piece.

@madkaw has.

That picture shows how the clutch fork pivot ball mounting hole is a through-hole to the oil containing area. It can leak if you don't seal it. Just adding...

Here's one of them aggrygaters. Not as many out there as used to be. https://www.searchtempest.com/

The population of Z owners with automatics is small, maybe even tiny. I can't remember who has one but if you start a new thread with "Automatic transmission" in the title it might catch an eye. Valvoline makes good products though, probably can't go wrong there.

I don't recall any pins on the vacuum advance unit. Just the tiny screw that attaches the arm to the breaker plate and the big screw that locks the unit to the distributor body. Usually you can twist the unit after the big screw is out to break it free from the distributor body. Couldn't identify the tiny screw so I just marked the spot where it attaches. Remove those two screws and all that holds it in is corrosion. Some heat on the body (housing) might expand it enough to break loose.

We didn't ask the fundamental question of "what are your plans for the car?" And "what are you good at?" And "what do you like doing?" The car you're looking at will take a lot of work, so might be a while before you enjoy driving it. Aside from the leaks, the engine has headers, and a fuel gauge on the fuel rail so it's been messed with and might have problems. The extra 5 speed is a sign that the transmission is bad. Who knows if the extra trans is any good itself. You'll need a garage big enough to put the car up high enough to drop a transmission. Does Atlanta have emissions testing? That could take some work to pass. Overall it looks like a lot of work for a lot of money. Your car is barely "Fair" - https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1977-datsun-280z

The FSM says Dexron. OReilly says that their Valvoline product works. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/maxlife-5150/engine-parts---mounts-16774/transmission---transaxle-16780/transmission-parts-16520/at-fluid---vehicle-specific-13555/3db5c75d447e/valvoline-maxlife-synthetic-transmission-fluid-1-quart/maxlifed/4773348/1977/nissan/280z?q=dexron&pos=13

Manual or auto?

Here's a tool to help you get the same diameter or see where you'll end up with different sizes. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

One of the guys has been refinishing metal parts, talked about in his thread. Can't remember who, exactly. Check the threads that have resto in the title. What do you mean by "restore"?

The wiring diagram from the car the dash came from would most likely match. Just saying. If it was in a car then the diagram is out there.

On the FPR, EuroDat was right way back in 2013. The forum used to have post numbers but you'll have to search for the post now. It's in there.

A service manual would have the diagram.

What kind of car is that from?

That car is way over-priced. You could probably find a better one and have it shipped to you for less. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-67/

The same style VIN. They just stopped putting the engine serial number on the tag. Don't know why. I had a 76 and a 78, so have seen both.

Nissan stopped putting the engine number on the tag in 77 or 78. It's not on a 78 for sure though.

Some help https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/body-paint/

Sounds like on the the plastic rollers has broken. Fairly common. There are some solutions on the site, can't remember where.

It's on their Facebook page.