Zed Head

Looks like a long lever arm. Interesting but potentially problematic. A broader view would be neat but if you want to keep it secret that's cool. Still, leave the engine alone and work on the back end, I'd say.

Your coil should be matched to the ignition module, or points. What are you using?

Does "position 5" mean 5 degrees advanced? Not sure what you're looking at or doing. Timing should be set at about 10 - 15 degrees advanced, normally.

I think that the mark is actually in between new and worn out enough to move. It's normal wear. If he move's it it will be too far advanced. It's on #1.

Who made it? Sounds like you're using the mustache bar and crossmember mounts. Four points of contact. Never heard of anybody doing this. Kind of on your own, except for general expertise here. Mounting holes, generally, are only used for the bolts to pass through, friction and clamping force should hold the metal in place. The hole edges should not see any side forces, in a good design. Still need a picture. Where's your phone?

He might have one of the aftermarket R230 mounts. Some of them have problems, it would be interesting to see it. If so, doing all of the realignment at the diff mount would be best, probably. The engines should be fine. If the engine is moved it will affect other things, like the throttle linkage, the shiftier angle., cooling fan orientation, etc.

The most common problem that I've seen is dirty/corroded battery connections. Clean them up and try again before buying anything.

You should have mentioned this from the beginning. Side to side, the engine is fine. Front to back is your concern and, as grannyknot said, your driveline angle is important, although it's not the driveshaft angle that matters the most. It's the match between the rear diff pinion shaft and the engine's crankshaft, they need to be parallel. You can jack the ends of the car up to get the oil to drain, if that's a problem. There are how-to's all over the internet. Here's some examples from the past. jmortenen's link to the hybriz site has a bunch, in detail. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/43993-differential-laser-alignment-tool/

The L28 engine is the same as the the L24 engine, except internally. It's a direct bolt-in swap. There should no change at all in any angles, or degrees of level. It's the same block, essentially.

The oil pan is. The cylinder bores are not perpendicular to the ground, they are tilted. There are no "level" surfaces on the top of the engine. Except maybe the intake manifold heat shields.

Use the oil pan mounting surface and/or the back/bottom of the engine where the transmission bolts up. Underneath.

I'd like to see where that black wire is connected also. Looks like somebody in the past either made a bad guess or used some bad logic. Wouldn't be surprised if it was just connected to the cover screw. Ground to ground.

And side forces on the bearing will cause more movement. The indicator probe isn't putting much push on the outer race. Stuff like this is why good machinists make good money and bad ones go out of business. No offense intended, just trying to point out how important the numbers are and how difficult it can be to get them, then use them.

The bubbles could be from gases already in fuel. Like carbonation in soda. I wouldn't get too hung up on the bubbles. Here's an article about vapor bubbles in diesel fuel. Not gasoline but the principle is the same. http://www.davco.com/forms/troubleshooting/F1318.pdf

There would be suckage but it looks very slight, I think.

I could be wrong. Let's get a picture.

Convenient and easy. Maybe not ideal though. Can't really say without numbers. Grab an input shaft of an assembled transmission and wiggle it. That will give you an idea of how much play there is in the bearings. Probably doesn't matter much though, people have taken apart working transmissions and found that the adapter plate bearings were shot.

Pretty sure that the factory set an official spec. No need to get your numbers from a guy in the Houston area. It's probably metric too.

Did you measure "slop" in the bearing? Just curious. I'm not a machinist but I took a GDT calls years ago. You could end up with a hole bigger than your cutter edges or one offset to one side. From slop in your alignment tool/bearing.

EuroDat and Dave WM had a discussion going about the insert orientation and how the FSM was wrong, quite a while ago. For the record. It's out there somewhere. Found it -

The hoses to the carburetor will be under pressure. Sucking only happens between the pump and the tank.

I don't think that bubbles in the fuel lines and empty filters are much of a problem. Gases can be absorbed by the fuel and will come out when the fuel is put under the slight vacuum of being drawn to the pump. The carb float bowls have vents so the fuel will just rise to its proper level and the gases will escape from the vent.

That might be one of those FSM errors. I think that all AFMs use the round eyelet as a ground. I've seen a lot of AFMs and never seen a wire with a connector coming through the hole in the AFM base like that picture shows.

jetz tipped his hand early. Dangerous move...

The Banzai car is at $13,200. Less than 2 hours left.