Zed Head

The car's scissor jack under a block of wood on the back of the pan allows you to adjust the angle of the engine, letting it hang a bit to give you more room for the transmission installation. It wants to drop in the back. I've seen pieces of 4x4 between the valve cover and the firewall also but that's pretty rough. Don't use a hydraulic jack, they leak down. If you attach the crossmember to the back of the transmission before installing it makes a good handle to keep the transmission from rotating.

The plastic ones are still available, apparently. They seem to work fine. I always thought that the brass mod was for when you couldn't find the original plastic part. Not sure what the benefit is. I think it can be buzzy also if you get a loose one. I get the urge to fabricate parts but a pros and cons comparison might be worthwhile. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed/31

Make sure that the collar/sleeve matches the pressure plate. It is the most common mistake that causes problems. Search "92 mm" on the site. The bearings are the same, the sleeves are not.

The filler plug can leak also. Lots of small leak spots. Rare to see a dry transmission.

I think that Mike has the site tied to Facebook somehow, maybe that's the connection. He's probably building post count for some reason. What's up Bob? @BobGarnett

jonbill joined the forum a year and a half before you did, Bob.

Is that a step or an optical thing with the fuzzy picture? I see a sloped edge like on the other side. /T|_|T\

Another thought - the roll pin is broken. The one that holds the fork to the rod.

The fork looks like it has the plastic insert also. So many ways for a transmission to wear out once one part goes.

Could also be that the detent balls (check and interlock) in the adapter plate are damaged, or the notch in the shift rod. They are supposed to hold the forks in the proper position in each gear, and neutral. That fork is way out of alignment.

It probably could, on the steel forks. It would take some precise machining I think to grind the new surfaces flat and parallel.

Look at post #9. They can wear out. Too much hard shofting maybe.

No offense, it just seems goofy to wade through old threads just to say "welcome". Besides the insincerity.

Is post count a requirement for starting a picture gallery? Maybe @Mike can give you a waiver so you don't have to dig...

Another mystery company. Megazip. https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/nissan/280zx-2130/s130-6259/s130-182373/transmission-shift-control-2307215

More https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1981-nissan-datsun_810/power_train/transmission_shift_control.html

And, it looks like other models used the same parts. No surprise, but expands the possibilities. Also says that the part number has been superceded by 32805-Q0101. IF the E9001 is the right fork. Could be the E9000. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/oem-nissan-720_pickup-shift_fork.html

I don't know what this company does but they have the part numbers. 32805-E9001 https://mmerlinn.com/catalog/dox_angel/dt_w7b/dtw7bp23.htm

Why?

core

Get a good small box end on a nut then turn the driveshaft by sticking a long screwdriver through the u-joint yoke. The wrench will jam against the body and break the nut loose as you turn the driveshaft. There are fine details to that description but that's the basic method I used to use.

carpartsmanual says the 4 speed forks will work, if you get the right 4 speed. It also says that you might get the wrong 5 speed parts, and be in the same pickle. I'm repeating myself, but just in case you didn't look at the link. It's not the number of gears, it's the part number.

Redline and Pennzoil Synchromesh are both good for the old Nissan transmissions. Not much better that I've seen written about or tried. There's a lot of buzz about the "Friction-Modified Synchromesh", but if you already have the regular stuff, not really worth spending extra. Use the Synchromesh, I'd say.

What is being flushed? The moving parts are self-cleaning and the non-moving parts aren't affected by "stuff" on them.

I'm not much on electrical but isn't the power of the magnet, the coil, determined by current? Which, of course, is related to voltage. Just pointing out that if you have a relay that's not actuating, and you're reading lower than expected voltage, getting a different relay might not be the "ideal" solution.