Zed Head

One possibility is that the pistons aren't rising when the throttle is opened. This keeps the needles low, reduces fuel input to the air passing by, and makes things lean. The pistons' rate of rise is controlled by the damper oil. So, it seems like you have sticky pistons. What kind of oil are you using?

I would start from scratch with this. What are any and all possible causes for an engine to lose power when the throttle is opened?

You're right, I grabbed the wrong drawing. Screwed that one completely. Redo...

Found some good reading. Sure to help a person move up in their career, after things get back to "normal". https://thecooperreview.com/10-tricks-appear-smart-meetings/

Break out that meter and rerun some tests. Sounds like you lost power somewhere, or ground, or the Pin 1 signal. Can't swap until you know what to swap.

Ooops.

It's a lump in the tape of the harness. It's shaped just like the picture. It's in the vicinity of the ignition module. If too much current flows through the tachometer the coil might not discharge. Make then break. No break, no spark. Maybe why it's 2200 ohms.

I'm not sure how idle mixture is set. Usually there's a separate circuit for that. That's the carb tuning game, balancing the various fuel circuits. But at 1/4 throttle you're probably "on the needle", so raising the needle will let more fuel get pulled though the main jet. I'm just winging it from past carb memory. But I know that there's a lot of back and forth and trial and error involved. Good luck.

I think that people call that the "pedal box". Make sure that you get all of the parts that come with it. $350 still seems steep and I don't know if "Series I" matters. The 240Z guys know, I've done my communications monitoring... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal I have a memory of @cgsheen1 knowing a lot about this.

Makes more sense. The odds of it being original are slim, and if it is it's probably worn out. It looks like you're doing a restoration so maybe even original mechanical parts are important. But $350 for a worn out clutch disc and pressure plate seems a bit much. If that's what you're looking for, original parts, make sure you check the markings and labels. I can't believe that somebody would even ask that amount for those parts. Get pictures, post them, and we'll tear them apart.

I don't think that there is such a thing. If the parts are Nissan new old stock, they might have added value. But "series 1 clutch assembly" doesn't really mean anything and doesn't say anything about the brand or what the parts are. How about more details?

A few good deals. 76 had an ignition module also. https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209260&m=wc&l=en&html=true https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209226&m=wc&l=en&html=true

I would let go of the assumption about the needles. Can you raise the needle to richen the mixture? It's obviously lean. There's a lot in the news these days about trusting the facts. Your facts say that you need to make things richer. No matter what you thought was supposed to happen.

No, I just meant the numbers. 80,000 people dead. More than WWI combat deaths. I've given up on the mask worries, people do what they do. Just like drinking and driving. And now kids are are dying from it also, through a different route. That might actually be what changes things. Parents. Not "old people" dying. Even if you assume a low percentage of the 80,000 old people, it's a lot of kids. And a lot of worry. 1% x 80,000 = 800 kids dead. https://discoveries.childrenshospital.org/covid-19-inflammatory-syndrome-children/

It's really incredible how things have changed since this whole thing began. So fast it's almost incomprehensible, what has happened and what could have happened. I just saw this comment from Senator Romney that puts things in perspective. It's from the The Guardian's coverage of today's health committee hearings. I think it's balanced. Romney is a Republican as is the W.H. at this time. Hard to believe that South Korea, a country of about 52 million people has only 256 deaths, and we have over 80,000 and growing every day. "As a reminder, Romney said a little earlier that the administration’s boasts “ignored the fact that they [South Korea] accomplished theirs at the beginning of the outbreak, while we treaded water during February and March.” Romney added: “And as a result, by March 6, the US had completed just 2,000 tests, whereas South Korea had conducted more than 140,000 tests, so partially as a result of that they have 256 deaths and we have 80,000. I find our testing record is nothing to celebrate whatsoever.” And he concluded: “The fact is their [South Korea’s] test numbers are going down, down, down, down now because they don’t have the kind of outbreak we have, ours are going up, up, up as they have to. That’s an important lesson for us as we think about the future."

Could be an exhaust leak, they get confused for a mechanical knock often. Could be low on oil, or a rod bearing. Rods have been known to blow a hole in the side of the block if they let go. Could also be something under the valve cover. I'd check the oil first.

The clutch pedal is two issues. There is a spring that pulls the pedal back. Sounds like someone removed yours or it broke. And the clutch master cylinder seals might be shot. Check the fluid first and try bleeding it. The pedal should always be up even if the master cylinder is bad. The open hose is the cooling fan system for the injectors. It won't affect engine operation. Most of them don't even work, unless it gets very very hot. Your title says engine knocking but you didn't say anything about knocking. Download the Service Manual and the 1980 EFI Book. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

$7,950 isn't terrible. I'll bet it has an R180 diff though. It's a 2+2. They show the Jags That Run book but don't confirm any of the swap details.

Do this coolant temperature sensor "tweak" and you'll probably get rid of the stumble. It might run okay, or it might be gassy in other areas. The low RPM, low throttle, stumble is a typical lean mixture problem, on many old Z's even with stock cams. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html p.s. and just for conversation, if I remember right, one reason big cams run poorly at low RPM is because the cylinders don't get cleared out well, and they tend to push air back through the intake valve before they start pulling. So you can get lean cylinders and rich cylinders and dirty mixture cylinders all at the same time. That's where the rumpity rump sound comes from. It's actually just the sound of an inefficient system. But, adding fuel can fix the lean cylinders so that at least they'll be firing. Anyway, the "tweaker" is the simplest way to get richer. No FPR adjusting or AFM fudging necessary. Too bad Radio Shack isn't still popular, those little potentiometers are hard to find now.

The TPS only has three positions. Idle, "full" throttle, and neither of those. Full throttle adds 27% more fuel than the base fuel enrichment. Idle adds a little bit of idle enrichment. Off idle the AFM is in control.

Never mind.

There are stupider things, for sure. They're happening right now. Just watch the news.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/may/11/mexico-us-sanitizing-tunnels-coronavirus-covid19 Don't worry, it's not what it looks like...

@AK260 is it really like this over there? https://twitter.com/RealMattLucas?ref_src=twsrc^tfw|twcamp^tweetembed|twterm^1259566662791106569&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.classiczcars.com%2Findex.php%3Fapp%3Dcore%26module%3Dsystem%26controller%3Dembed%26url%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Ftwitter.com%2FRealMattLucas%2Fstatus%2F1259566662791106569

Which shop manual and which chapter? Use AC in the FSM.