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Lenbo211

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About Lenbo211

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  • Map Location
    Silverton, Oregon
  • Occupation
    Sales

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  • Zcars Owned
    280z

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  1. I was thinking the same thing. When I bought it, I bought a pair so going to put another one in line.
  2. I have the dial turned the whole way to get it where it is.
  3. Did this. It definitely runs better now. throttle response in shop that I'd expect. Can set idle up around 1000 rpm no issue. However, when I take it out for a drive, it stumbles when I add throttle under load and takes a second or two to take off. Something else is that when I'm on maintenance throttle going down hill, it is backfiring. (i think backfiring. I have hood off so not entirely sure if it is firing out of the air filter like it did in the shop, or if it is coming out of the exhaust. This is the first time I've driven this car.
  4. Thanks for the answer on resistance. I did a little more looking and realized that infinite resistance = 1 on my meter. Yeah, I did have it on the brake booster earlier and it bumped up to 15 when I hit the throttle. but the point is the thing stumbles when I add throttle so I moved the vacuum gauge so I could get a reading on what the ported vacuum was doing on the throttle body to see if that was normal. Did you watch the video? Maybe it's not clear in the video, but it idles OK, but runs horrible when I add throttle.
  5. OK, I did a full test on the AFM and it all came back correct. Here is a video of the car running. Hopefully the video gives some of you Z Heads an Aha! moment. https://youtu.be/nfUWozhWMzA There are a few things to see so you may want to watch it a few times. Fuel Pressure gauge. Looks like it is working as expected. I have vacuum gauge. It is low at idle, but consistent. It is plugged into the line between the intake and the Distributor/Throttle body. When we add throttle, it drops to zero. Is that normal? idle is around 800 to 900. that
  6. Thanks, Great information. I've talked to Bruce at ZTherapy a couple times. $1,400 for a carb conversion so about the same as the Fast EFI. I'd probably rather do Carb, but Bruce is backed up to September with orders. Does anyone have troubles getting the carbs to work well without waiting to warm up? That's the only drawback I've seen on the forums around doing a conversion.
  7. Thanks, Do you think it's an ECU thing that I could fix by swapping from Factory to a MegaSquirt etc?
  8. Any throttle input causes it to stumble and almost die whether it be slow input or fast input. I may not be explaining it well, but it is definitely not normal. trying to give it a little throttle just to let the clutch out and get moving is impossible. I'll try and take some video tomorrow and post it so you can see what it's doing.
  9. In my '78, there is a line that runs from cannister across to the distributor and T's to go to distributor and to the inboard side of the throttle body. Makes sense on the ported vacuum. the fact that the timing advances when I add throttle indicates that the ported vacuum (only having vacuum when rpm goes up as blade opens) is working as it should. A friend suggested it could be Fuel Pressure related and may need to get an aftermarket FPR. I have a new Factory FPR. It shows 33 at idle and jumps to 40 when I blip the throttle. Is that normal? I always thought it should drop when you blip
  10. Hi All, I did a little searching and while I'm guessing my issue is common, I can't find an existing thread. Our car starts fine regardless of temp outside. But we are having trouble with the throttle response. As in, if we slowly move the throttle, it stumbles but eventually comes up and if we blip the throttle, it almost dies and then runs up after we let off the throttle. For a while we thought it was a vacuum leak because no matter what we did, we couldn't get the idle above 650. Found a leak and fixed it. Can get it to idle at 800 now. Using carb cleaner spray test, there is now
  11. Update: I tested it and it seemed to work, but the audible click was kind of soft so I replaced the Ignition Relay with two 4 pin relays to replicate the wiring in the FSM. Resulted in no change. Car starts and runs, but still no gauges other than volt meter which I had before. also still no turn signal activity which is what the FSM suggests to check in order to see if the Ignition relay is bad. In theory the water temp gauge may work, but I haven't run it long enough to tell since this is a new engine rebuild and I want to break the cam in correctly and want to make sure I have enough oil
  12. @Zed Head Finally figured it out after 3 days of continuity testing. The new relay EFI relay I bought was bad. Was able to figure out how to test it on page EF-33 and identified the problem. Thankfully the guy on ebay that sells it warrantied it as well and sent me another. Now I'm dealing with water, fuel gauge and oil pressure gauge aren't working. As I read through the FSM, it appears that these are symptoms of the Ignition Relay being bad, but for the life of me I can't find anywhere in the FSM instructions on how to test it. Only thing I can find is the suggestion on BE 43 to te
  13. Hi Steve, I know this is a very old post, but do you happen to have instructions on how to test the Ignition Relay? I've been able to find directions in the FSM on how to test just about every relay but that one. Thanks,
  14. Thanks for the thought on the Fuse Link. I forgot to mention that I tested those. They are all new and I have power at both sides. Something else I forgot to mention is that the plug going into the EFI Control relay are all hot across the top and when the ignition is on and/or the engine is turning over the 73 plug is hot, but the other two are not.
  15. Hi All, I'm brand new to this club/forum, but have found a lot of value in it over the last few months. My dad, son and I started a project car a few months ago. It is a car we bought from a kid who took it apart and couldn't figure out how to put it back together. I think we're 99% of the way getting it back together and running, but we're struggling with an EFI issue. This is a very long post, but hopefully that helps rule out some of the initial suggestions guys have and drill into the real issue quick. Just to answer the standard questions: We have fuel to the
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