Zed Head

You might get your problem resolved if you can get to talk to the owner of the shop. You've probably been talking to somebody low in the organization. But, if you make fun of the people you talk to, ridicule them, call them stupid, and/or tell them how angry you are, they'll just tell you to get lost. I don't see the Item number on the paperwork you posted (I didn't look very hard). You didn't say if it was the correct number for the 2+2. 4 seater. It's probably on the box. If you find that the Item number is incorrect, it will make things easier. That's a miscommunication. If the item number is correct then they have to figure out who put the wrong parts in the box. I would go through all of your communications with them from the beginning and see if you can find a place where a mistake was made. I've always found that if you can show the path to a problem people will accept their mistake more easily. But, you might find that you made the mistake, so be ready.

So it idles well, and it's not running rich? Problem solved? You should measure the TVS values at the ECU connector like the book shows. The ECU can't see those contacts, it only knows what the wires tell it. That is a Fuel Injection Corp reman. Sold by MSA. They take the Nissan model number off of the original. I had one of those and it ran rich at idle. Couldn't pass emissions with it, even with the idle air bypass wide open. It worked great otherwise. Not really sure how they verify that their remans work correctly. I don't see the resistance numbers for the AFM. 100 and 180. Numbers, numbers, numbers....

You don't have the old set to compare to? Here is the web site of the company they bought from. Based on the box in your picture. There should be an "Item number" on the box. https://www.accmats.com/commerce/1979/Nissan/280ZX/Flooring/4586/

You made your point. The posts you're quoting are over 5 years old.

What brands are the two that failed and how did they fail? What broke? Pictures always good.

The TVS being stuck on wide open can cause wet plugs also. You can check that at the ECU plug also. I assume that your coolant temperature sensor reading was at the ECU plug.

I went back a few posts and see the part about how the car ran well when there was a gap between the AFM and the throttle body. If I read it right. The fact that the idle adjustment screw doesn't raise idle speed implies that your AFM vane is stuck. Take the black cover off and see if the counterweight moves when you use the throttle. It should. And you should set the AFM idle screw back to where you started with it. It's not an idle speed screw, it's an air-fuel ratio adjustment screw.

What is the reading on Pin 13? We need numbers. And what color are your injectors?

gnosez shows that he's in Italy. I don't think he is but his name does sound like "Gino says". @gnosez And Will S. @Will S Those are the only two. https://www.classiczcars.com/membermap/

A few people have responded that he's talking to the wrong person. On the other hand, it seems possible that old cars are not allowed in Italy. Maybe in the highly populated areas like Rome. He hasn't really said where he is located. Here in the States the rules can be different in the metro areas compared to the rural areas.

It does not exist. Nissan did not produce such a certificate, from what I've seen over the years. Nobody has ever shown such a certificate in any collection of provenance, for any Z car, even the $310,000 car recently sold. You should just put your own document together using the pages from the front of the Factory Service Manuals and the Owners' Manuals..

That's a bummer then. The caps are super-expensive. I tried to find one for my 76 and couldn't do it. https://zcardepot.com/products/gas-cap-fuel-lid-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-76?_pos=6&_sid=0d0ab3a6a&_ss=r

This sub-forum might help - https://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/category/7-want-ads/

I converted your message for you. Looks like a typical government bureaucracy. Find the oldest person in the building. They will probably know how to get it done. "Thanks for your help. But that's not what they asked me. They need an official certificate from the manufacturer or a responsible body that describes the technical data of the car in a single sheet. In Italy this machine has never been registered and for this reason the Civil Motorization Office does not have official data. I purchased the car in Germany but the German documents are not enough to be able to register it in Italy. What the civil motorization office asks for is a certificate of origin from the manufacturer on the chassis of my car"

Looks like you have a separate problem of a leaking filler neck. Unless the fuel is all the way up to the top of the neck and is leaking from the gas cap. Take the cap off and see where the fuel level is. Fuel should never leak from the filler area. Here is the document that describes the heat soak problem.

Pretty ingenious. Easier than drilling, for sure.

Did you use a meter to check for power at one side of the fuse? Might be a fusible link. Download the FSM and the wiring diagram and start probing. EL = electrical. The diagram is in the back of the chapter I think. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

Apparently, Al, AKA URGELIS, has started a new company called Doctor Datsun Restorations. He doesn't show his name on the new site but he seems to be the guy behind it. Just posting so that people will know the history before getting involved. History is full of fly-by-night companies and people, who change identities after they wear one place out. One guy recently had a good experience though. Maybe he's changed. More history will tell.

You're saying he can't spell either? https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/13357-urgelis/

He might do good work now but if there's a problems you'll probably have problems getting them resolved.

One of these should work. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/17-owner-manuals/

Is this Al the same Al that owns California Datsun. AKA URGELIS on the forum? He changed his company name before from Datsun Parts LLC. Maybe his stripes have changed but they seemed pretty deep back then.

There's a pretty extensive test procedure for the alt and the regulator in the FSM. They even show how to adjust the regulator. Old school stuff.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Does it have a 4 barrel carb and manifold? Just curious, I'd guess it does. Still, you gotta learn what those wires do. And you should do some inspection and maintenance on that ZX distributor. It's rusty and they are prone to breaking if the bushing gets worn.