Zed Head

Looks like it could outrun the virus. Is that "100" I see on the engine, or more? Don't recognize the brand.

I think it's actually easier. The first time I removed the diff in my car, I messed around with trying to only remove the diff and leave everything else attached. It was a pain. Much easier to drop the mustache bar, diff and crossmember as a unit. Leave the inner suspension contact points hanging. If you're going to do the suspension at the same time, drop it all as one if you have the means to support it and drag it out.

The CDC has the numbers. The graphics aren't bad. It's hard to keep up with what's really happening. I had looked over the CDC site before and id not find this but it's there now. Worth browsing, pick your state from the menu at the top. https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/cases-updates/county-map.html Here's from the WA state page. Avoid Yakima county.

Do you now of any that have per capita data? (Edit - actually that document I linked to above has per capita data from the CDC. They use it to define the "red zones". But, apparently, the data will not be available to the public anymore.) It's surprising, or not surprising considering how everything is sensationalized, that there isn't more focus on this way of viewing things. 100 cases per day in New Mexico is not the same as 100 cases per day in Florida. Per capita data gives a person an idea of the odds of catching the virus. Even better would be per capita by locale instead of state. County or city. All I really get from the graphs is that things are going the the right way or the wrong way, but no real idea of how bad things are. Washington state has an interesting site that breaks things down by county. If you know the area you can at least guess. But still, you have to know where the bigger cities are. But you can at least see where to hide within the state. https://www.doh.wa.gov/Emergencies/NovelCoronavirusOutbreak2020COVID19/DataDashboard

Check out the slide show. 359 slides. I have not been through them all, but the topic is interesting. https://publicintegrity.org/health/coronavirus-and-inequality/exclusive-white-house-document-shows-18-states-in-coronavirus-red-zone-covid-19/

Found this paper from 1979, which already seems long ago (looks like a typewriter was used, a mechanical one,), about happenings in 1879. Electrical mysteries. Not the original author re zKar's post, just a similar vein. http://www.physics.utah.edu/~lebohec/P5510/References/Discovery_of_Hall_effect.pdf

https://www.mecum.com/tv-times/

There's a bunch more. I've actually learned a few new tricks.

We're back in to the 800's, maybe 900, deaths per day, last three days. Feels like Invasion of the Body Snatchers. Doesn't seem to be any way to fight it either. Wait and hope. https://www.worldometers.info/coronavirus/

My escape path is still closed. Dang.

NASCAR choir... Symptoms showed three days later. https://www.livescience.com/covid-19-superspreader-singing.html

The stock EFI system will not run ITB's. You'll need a completely different engine management system.

This is so mind-boggling I don't think the mainstream media knows what to do with it. 20,000 cheering people sitting next to each other for 3 or 4 hours. One to two weeks from now, July-August, should be another indicator of how super-spreading events work. Really hard to wrap the brain around it. It's everything that could be wrong except be indoors. I hope it was a windy day. https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2020/jul/16/nascar-race-crowd-tennessee-coronavirus

Come on now.... you did not actually take a resistance measurement at Pin 13 of the ECU connector like the "Bible" describes. Just say so, and move on.

Are you sure you got your wires back on the same way they came off? It sounds rough. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise. These engines will run with bad firing order and missing cylinders but they won't have much power. In your second video it looks like the AFM vane is moving okay. That weight is connected to the vane. If it moves the vane is moving.

This is always good, in general. Put everything back to where it "drove perfectly". The fact that the idle screw adjustment has no affect is a big clue. Almost sounds like the AFM vane is stuck or something else is blacking the intake system. Air flow is what controls engine speed. Are you missing any shop rags?

It's probably something to do with fuel or valves. People have had the locknuts come loose on the lash adjustment. Knowing fuel pressure is always good. As far as "testing", you need to show the numbers. So many people try to start out with a couple of easy "tests", but in the end, days or weeks or months later, they almost all have to get the real numbers. Even the FSM gives bad advice with their "N.G" continuity tests. Just go directly to real resistance readings. Make a list. Seriously, it will save a lot of time.

That's a heat shield. It goes behind the exhaust downpipe. Nissan must have seem some cooked gaskets and made that little piece to fix the problem. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block

No offense zKars, there's a lot in this thread. But his problem, summarized, is that he has the longest collar he can find and still does not have room behind the fork to get enough fork throw before the fork hits the back of the hole. A longer rod won't help (that sounds wrong somehow...). This is his starting point.

Won't be too many games in New York state. 22 states are on the quarantine list as of now. https://coronavirus.health.ny.gov/covid-19-travel-advisory The travel advisory is effective at 12:01 am on Thursday, June 25, 2020. If you have traveled from within one of the designated states with significant community spread, you must quarantine when you enter New York for 14 days from the last travel within such designated state, provided on the date you enter into New York State that such state met the criteria for requiring such quarantine.

I found an old video about broken noses. You're not the first, by far, to get stuck in a weird transmission problem hole.

I wrote this yesterday before I realized the 71A thing, then didn't post it. Overall, it seems like something is partially opening your pressure plate, jammed up against it. Either the nose of the transmission, or the sleeve/collar, or a combination. There should be play behind the throwout bearing and sleeve. In other words, the bearing and sleeve should not be contacting the pressure plate fingers or the front of the transmission, at rest. It should have wiggle room between the two. I went back and watched your video and when you move the fork I don't see the bearing/sleeve moving. Only the fork. It looks like something is jamming the bearing/sleeve in to the pressure plate. If you take it apart again make sure that the bearing and sleeve slide all the way back on the nose of the transmission. That friction surface is often overlooked. Even though the bearing/sleeve is held in the fork it's resting on the nose. The noses actually get worn and break after many miles with no lubrication, just from the bearing and sleeve wearing on it. Most old transmissions have a groove worn on the nose. And, following up on EuroDat's last comment, maybe the collar slipped off of the nose as you were installing and is jammed in there, between the end of the nose and the pressure plate. It might be that you just need to get it back on the nose where it can work like it should. I think that is a good possibility. It fits, I think. It's at about :40 in the video. Here's a clip from it, below. Lots of fork movement but no sleeve movement.

The distance from the front of the bellhousing down to the top of the pivot ball would be good to get. If it's the same as a 71B then the 92 mm number should work. The relationship between clutch parts will be the same. After all of this, it might just be that the 71A needs the thick pressure plate. The pivot ball might be deeper, farther away from the engine. p.s. if that is the case, then adding washers to extend the pivot ball would be rational.

Okay, found it, in the very first post. I don't know for sure but the 71A might not work with the 92 mm standard that the 71B does. Either the 71A is different and we've been steering you wrong or the 71A is the same and you still have a problem.