Zed Head

I had the same problem when I got mine and spent many days working on it. The fluid squirting up in the reservoir was a big clue. Good luck with the car.

It might be that you put the front calipers on the wrong sides. That makes it impossible to get the air bubbles out. The bleed screw needs to be on the top. But, I think that the front calipers use the big reservoir. You didn't say what year car you have. I think that Nissan switched front and back reservoirs when they went to the 280Z. Not sure. Maybe you got a master cylinder for the wrong year car. Anyway, check those bleed screws on the calipers. Put them on the top.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darmok https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epic_of_Gilgamesh

I've wondered if that spread between 180 and 240 wasn't the adjustment range. It's actually a pretty wide spread, 1/3 higher from the low end. The FSM doesn't really say what to do if the turning torque or end play is off. "Readjust". ???

I have to pyle on. The good part is from about 0:39. Gohmert Pyle. Sha-zaam...gaaaawwwllllyy.

Are you saying that the brake pedal goes all the to the floor? It's not clear what you mean by "all the way depleted". Did the brakes work correctly before you saw the leak or are you working on a car that has been sitting for a while?

Do you have the flex plate mounted backward?

The 280 shaft would work. Keep the shorter shaft, people use it when they swap in a "71C" transmission. It's valuable. The R200 probably has the wrong ratio for that 3.592 first gear in your four speed. A list of parts might help you figure out what sets of parts will work together. Here's a link to your build thread for reference.

I took a closer look at his solution and I think that there are other ways to get it done. But it's good to know what the problem is.

Looks like he's a zcar.com guy. Zcar was barely alive a few years ago, haven't been there much lately. "The various members of Zcar.com contributed valuable guidance."

That's a good find. I think the reason is not quite right but the fix looks right. Who is that guy? I inserted your link so that it clicks through. http://ace240z.com/rt mount.html Not really correct - "As it turns out, the transmissions for a '70 and '71 240z were mounted slightly back than with subsequent years. "

I wonder if the strap mounting holes on the early 240Z's are moved forward. That would explain why the RT mount would be moved forward too, sitting over the yoke. I don't think I've seen where someone with the forward mounted diff used an RT mount.

You're going to have a problem with propeller shaft length. It will be too short if you move the diff back. You should have all of the parts you need except the propeller shaft, to get the diff installed correctly, with the RT mount and rubber snubber and 72 Nissan mount. It sounds like you're installing something incorrectly. Almost like you're installing the RT mount backward. The RT mount should not interfere with the propeller shaft yoke at all. Not clear how that can happen. " the RT mount is falling right on the yoke" There are pictures on the site. I'll post a link if I find some.

Here's another informative web site. Apparently some of the medical community use this one. Saw one of the Dr. Gupta's mention it. If you click on a state you get a new page with detailed information. Still state-based graphics though, instead of locale. Not sure why this is. Maybe they just can't break the data out. Here in Washington the hot spots are around Yakima and Seattle. Huge areas are okay but they all get lumped in to "Washington". https://covidactnow.org/?s=790144

Just have to followup with one more. The qualities required to get elected to Congress are way beyond my understanding. Representing Texas. Worth a watch. https://www.axios.com/louie-gohmert-mask-wearing-coronavirus-5a241b3c-8fa3-4835-a15f-779d5c891290.html

I just realized that "more than 21.5 mm" means that there must be room beyond that. So you could pull it forward to 21.5 mm and it might be fine. There's play in it, just not clear how much. The 21.5 mm number is probably the "it's wrong, there's not enough room" limit. Haven't messed with an automatic for years and never got very deep in to them.

Logic. https://www.texastribune.org/2020/07/29/louie-gohmert-coronavirus/ U.S. Rep. Louie Gohmert, R-Tyler, has tested positive for the new coronavirus, he said in an interview with East Texas Now where he speculated that he may have caught the virus from wearing his mask.... “I can’t help but wonder ... if I injected the virus into my mask when I was moving,” he said in an interview.

Well, I guess the converter is meant to slide all the way on to the shaft. But here's a way to tell if the problem is with the transmission/converter or the engine.

Doesn't the torque converter slide on the transmission input shaft? 3/4" seems like a lot but maybe it's right. You should be able to slide it forward to get it bolted on. What does the FSM say about it? Here's a drawing of parts. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/piston-crankshaft

I have this problem when buying socks. Not kidding! Store light and "real" light are not the same.

If you don't have support under the transmission it might be dropping downward to the amount of play in the bolt holes. Get support under it so that it's not hanging on the back of the engine. Then fiddle around with alignment, get it all squared up, and give the transmission some wiggling while you press it forward.

Spend most of your time sliding back and forth under the car and crawling out from under the car and looking at each side of this gap. The two sides have to be parallel. If they are parallel then the input shaft will be centered. Close is not good enough, make it exact. Take measurements if your eyeball is not calibrated. It's important. It makes all the difference. Use the bolts to get the gap straight but not to pull the transmission in.

So, eventually, we'll have the nation-wide shutdown that should have happened 100,000 ago. But still no plan to reopen in a controlled fashion. Open-close-open-close... https://www.courier-journal.com/story/news/2020/07/27/kentucky-gov-andy-beshear-order-bar-closures-covid-cases-spike/5517328002/

I haven't watched Dave's video (sorry Dave, no time yet), but found with my old hardened 280Z seals that water would leak in to the channel/gap between the glass and the rubber then run down that inner channel to the bottom corners of the seal and leak in to the car. I realized what was happening one day as I was driving around a corner and saw a drop of water magically appear at the inside corner of the inner seal, break off and run down toward the ECU. It was reproducible. Left turns produced passenger's side water, right turns produced driver's side. I ended up running a thin bead of black RTV completely around the outer intersection of glass and seal. I even had to do the top edge, surface tension was apparently enough to drag the rain over and in to the gap. That was my short term fix. This was in rainy wet Portland Oregon. Nissan illustrators even left a tiny gap there in their drawing. I'm sure it gets bigger as the rubber shrinks over time.

Here's an interesting site. Kayak. I never really knew what their ads were about but, apparently, they are a travel promotion site. Pretty detailed and some good graphics. You can see how patchwork everything is. It's amazing how far the US has fallen in just a few short years. https://www.kayak.com/travel-restrictions/united-states