Zed Head

He's working from his hospital bed, or somebody is pretending to be him. He's on the Cradio. https://twitter.com/RudyGiuliani?ref_src=twsrc^google|twcamp^serp|twgr^author

If he's only doing two lines from the MC? Already flared and fitted, test the fit of the fittings at the store. Lots of ways. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brake-systems-16456/brake-hydraulics-16513/brake-lines---domestic-18110/d3e2edb38fe0

The bids are at nickel and dime level now. $250. Not looking good. I predict reserve not met. Never mind. I would have set a higher reserve.

More of these "Golly gee, I guess it's real" stories popping up. https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/former-alabama-senator-dies-covid-age-78-his-last-words-n1250236

8 minutes to go. The ladst two minutes are where stuff happens. Do you think calling yourself "Slimeydime" is a good idea? "Who'd you buy the car from?" "Somebody called Slimey Dime."

Lots about Yeager in this book from 1979. https://www.amazon.com/Right-Stuff-Tom-Wolfe/dp/0312427565

The red 78 ends in an hour. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-80/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-12-08

Seems like it. I read through the details and it's not the simple old 240Z I thought it was. Sat in storage for 12 years but has a 3.1 L stroker engine and a roll cage.

Pretty common and easy to rebend lines to fit. Wait until you get to your rear brake cylinders, guys make the later ones work with a couple of bends. Motorsport's suggestion seems like a good one. You can buy prefitted lines cut to a variety of lengths at most auto parts stores if you need new lines.

I think that you mean Wilwood. People here might have suggestions on where to find one or how to modify another to fit. California Datsun does not have a good reputation here, in his early days he was known for selling sketchy parts and refusing to make things right when people realized the parts were bad. The larger bore will reduce braking power from the pedal. Here are links. You can save money if you do some of the work yourself. https://www.datsun-garage.com/products/wilwood-1-master-cylinder-upgrade-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx-1967-73-510-and-1973-79-620?variant=31473478729812&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2020-02-05&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign https://www.californiadatsun.com/master-cylinder/wilwood-brake-master-cylinder.html https://www.wilwood.com/mastercylinders/MasterCylinderList?group=Tandem Remote Master Cylinder https://www.wilwood.com/mastercylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-8794 https://thmotorsports.com/144874-wilwood-260-8794-tandem-master-cylinder-1-bore-w-fixed-reservoirs?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5bz-BRD-ARIsABjT4njPvA1Fp--0aGnyqXF7TuW0zgKyu6UiP1Wc8qknJsY2kQYlw9cRwRoaAqBHEALw_wcB

Thanks jfa. Here's where I saw it, linked below, on an eBay sale. Overall, it makes a person realize how strange things are getting, with the internet. Facebook used to be a weird place where you shared bad pictures and gossiped, and eBay was where people sold their odd old junk. Now Facebook is where people claim authority over various concerns, and cars and other things are selling for 10's of thousands of dollars on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-Other/264964354469?_trkparms=aid=888008&algo=DISC.CARDS&ao=1&asc=20200220090753&meid=ae4f76d8b3594d12a34b0f7e4337eeb2&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=224263144994&itm=264964354469&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&algv=DiscV1&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982 Here's links to the "Registry" clubs. There's two, a public one and a private one. Notice also, typical Facebook "joining" is needed to see the actual Registry, the list of cars, if it exists. There's nothing on the Public page of any value. https://www.facebook.com/groups/121977164809467// https://www.facebook.com/groups/121977164809467/

Just saw this on an eBay listed high dollar 240Z. Anybody ever heard of it? Who is Phillip A. Ray? An official looking document that says that a car has been officially registered. I wonder how much you have to pay to get "registered".

This one seems nice but the auction ends in about 9 hours. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-240Z/224254524928?_trkparms=aid%3D888008%26algo%3DDISC.CARDS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200220090753%26meid%3Dae4f76d8b3594d12a34b0f7e4337eeb2%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D224263144994%26itm%3D224254524928%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDiscV1&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

More eBay cars. This one seems unlikely to sell. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-Other/264964354469?_trkparms=aid%3D888008%26algo%3DDISC.CARDS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200220090753%26meid%3Dae4f76d8b3594d12a34b0f7e4337eeb2%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D224263144994%26itm%3D264964354469%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDiscV1&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

If the rotor looks that bad imagine how the plugs look. Have fun changing those. It's tight in there. Plug wires are probably toasty too.

Funny bidding. Why do this? $12,800 pop. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-156/

Just an example of a block with no passage between cylinders.

More block confusion. https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/

Here's the cutaway engine thread. Not sure it gets in to cooling areas, I have to watch the video again.

What type of engine block do you have, N42 or F54? There's quite a bit of discussion around the internet about "siamesed" cylinders. Apparently the early blocks were blocked off between cylinders and later blocks were open. Edit - this might be backward. See #22 below. In your second picture what you're showing as a blockage is really just the casting itself, I think. Steel. Poke a screwdriver in there. I haven't seen a cutaway of an L engine engine block but the way it should be is that the lower portion of the cooling passage would be open, that's where you'd get left to right flow (actually front to back but shared at the bottom), but the upper portion (where the core plugs are) would be isolated by cylinder so that coolant is forced to flow upward and in to the head. Like a manifold, with the open bottom "plenum" pressurized by the pump. A block cutaway would be interesting I think that there might be one on the site. Somebody cut an engine in half and made a three cylinder L engine. It's on the site somewhere. You should buy Monroe's How to Rebuild book. It's worth the money and time to read it. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=How+to+Rebuild+Your+Nissan+%26+Datsun+OHC+Engine&qid=1607375412&s=digital-text&sr=1-1-catcorr

Here's a good web page with a video. He sprays water in from the top holes and you can see it coming out the core plug areas. Some long skinny brushes, a hose, and time will probably get you feeling confident. http://www.kangamotorsports.com/blog/datsun-engine-block-cleaning

Not sure the coolant is supposed to flow left to right. I'd pour water in the inlet at the pump area and see where it goes. Stand the block on end and run some water through the front cover inlet where everything starts. It should come out the holes that connect to the head. That's the path. Completely blocked coolant passages is not as common as people think, I think. You hear/read the stories about stop leak usage but most of what people find in their blocks is just stuff that dropped out in the dead flow areas. I've never seen a story from anyone who had overheating problems and found that clogged coolant passages in the block was the cause. A better radiator and a good water pump is usually the fix. The clogged passages stories are what people see and think must happen, "what is all this stuff in here" (no offense), but the coolant passages are really very crude. It's a big open cavity between the block walls and the cylinder bores. Most of the cooling happens at the top of the block and in the head. Anyway, I wouldn't overthink it if it was mine.

Hot tanking is no longer what it used to be. Nasty chemicals are being regulated. Do a search on it and you'll find stories about today's cleaning processes. You might do more damage trying to clean it than just doing the minimum needed. It's just going to get dirty again anyway. Kind of looks like old antifreeze residue. Whoever told you the block was "done" should not be listened to in the future. If the passages aren't blocked it will probably be fine.

Pretty sure the switch (not a sensor) is a straight thread, not a tapered pipe thread like the plugs, and it has proper flats for a wrench. 17 or 19 mm if I recall right. Should come right out, your biggest worry will be damaging the wires which will be rock hard after 40 years of baking. Heat will have a big effect. Those plugs have been bathed in transmission fluid on the other side for years and are steel in aluminum. If they've never been out then they still have Nissan's super sealant on the threads. Heat will loosen the sealant. Heat. Heat. Heat. When I was removing my diff fill plug I could only get it to turn after heat. As it cooled down it tightened up again.

I wonder if the door is complete. That would be worth some money.