Zed Head

You can just look at the diff and tell a 180 from a 200. Or post a picture up.

The 79 model year had a huge number of differential options, to go along with all of the trim options. Find out if you have an R180 or an R200. The R200 will handle it but not the R180. You'll want to know the ratio also, there's a bunch.

Remove a spark plug and post a picture of it.

Did it start when you tried starting fluid?

Just adding more to the saga. I wanted to see when the transmission changed, and, I don't know for sure, but its looks like there are two 71A's, maybe three. The first A matches the first pivot ball, changing at 7108. Anyone got a super-early 240Z 4 speed to take a look at?

Maybe there's a different "PIN-BALL WITH DRAWAL" in the early year model and somebody replaced yours with a later one. It would be interesting to see the difference at the part number change. I just considered this and there it is on good old carpartsmanual.com. Who knows. Edit - I notice that it says "no interchange". http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/clutch/7

The FSM is a good starting point. Here's a sample. 73 is a good one. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

We're getting in to politics which isn't going to go far. It's all clear, why beat a rotting horse? It just makes things messier. I do wonder what the magic number is though that will cause some sort of action. Is it a death rate, or infection rate, or filled hospitals? Even with typical politics, usually actions are taken to solve the problem, than credit or blame is fought over later. This completer inaction and effort to hide the reality of the situation is incredible. I can't even imagine how it will end. In my old stomping grounds the Dept. of Homeland Security is kidnapping people off the street, like it's one of the central american countries, instead of facilitating efforts to combat the virus.. Amazing. What a pointless exercise, people have been protesting in Portland for decades. https://theweek.com/speedreads/926170/dhs-secretary-justifies-unmarked-federal-agents-snatching-people-portland-photos-graffiti

Starting fluid...

It seems like you might have a short in your ignition system. With the key on, engine not running, you should see battery voltage at the coil. There will be no current flowing. It might be that your ignition module is bad. Try using starting fluid to see if the engine will run. If it does you have spark. Did you mean 5.9 volts or 5.9 ohms? Aside from that, you'll still be better off to write down everything that about the car, like when it last ran right, and how long it's been sitting, and all of the measurements you've taken, making sure that they are correct. Ohms, volts, etc.

Now the whole country is heading toward where New York was. Things went to crap in under one month. https://www.worldometers.info/coronavirus/country/us/

If you click on the little three dot thing in the upper right of a post you can link to that very post. So, you could start a new thread, give all of the details that you never gave in your first post, and link back to that first post in the other thread. Personally, I like to re-summarize things occasionally to make sure I didn't miss something, and get a clear picture of what I've been doing. Sometimes you plan to do things then realize you never did them.

I put both of the drawings together, for easy study. I think that there are two puzzles. How did it ever work before, and how do you make it work now. Maybe the old setup only needs a few mm of travel. The clutch discs really do expand when the pressure is released, maybe the old disc doesn't expand much so it released with a just few mm of fork throw. If it were mine I'd probably just extend that pivot ball, make it work, and let the problem stew in my brain. An answer would probably come up in a few years.

Some forums call them threads, some call them Topics. If you click "Start new topic" you'll have your own. Typicality, a person would start a new one and in the first post would describe what they're working on. Type of car, history of the car and problem, details, etc. In this topic anyone new joining in has to try to go back to your first post to see the beginning of your problem. And, like me, sometimes they get the first person's problems mixed up with the new guy's problems. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/27-fuel-injection/

That's a nice drawing. Here's something dumb - you're putting the throwout bearing and sleeve on the fork backward. ??? Don't know. That 13 mm extra to the pivot ball is a lot. Don't know how things ever worked originally but that could make a difference. You might need to find one of those aftermarket adjustable pivots. Kind of common for cars like Chevys, don't know about Datsun.

Check your fuel pressure regulator (FPR). They can blow a hole in the diaphragm and dump a lot of extra fuel in to the system. Pull the vacuum hose off and see if it has fuel in it. This problem won't show up through the normal tests.

I don't think that you understand what "thread" means. You jumped in on Virto's thread. You don't have a thread. The ECU's do go bad. But you said that the one you tried worked fine in your other car. "I pulled the ECU out of a running 1978 Datsun 280 Z and put the other one back into another running 280Z and it is working just fine in that car."

This is the "start" of the thread. Virto even uses the word start.

Actually, just realized that I have no idea who kelley0352 is or what, generally, the problem is. Looks like he just glommed on to Virto's thread. When he said "still" I assumed that he was the OP. Maybe not. Oh well, the chaos continues... Try some starting fluid and see what happens.

Is this with all of the injectors plugged in or did you just disconnect one? If you disconnect just one you'll see voltage on both side because it's a parallel circuit (thanks CO, from the past) and you're measuring voltage from the other injector circuits. If they 're all disconnected and you only get one pin with power that's normal. Have you tried starting it with fluid again? That's one of those previous suggestions. When you jump around from thing to thing it's very difficult to solve a problem. You have to be methodical. Go back and recheck things often to be sure that they still apply. If it won't start now with starting fluid then you might have a new spark problem. No use looking at injectors if you don't have spark. Just because it started on fluid 5 years and 11 months weeks ago, doesn't mean it will now. And, maybe most significant...just realized when this thread started. August 2014. If your fuel is almost 6 years old you should probably change it.

Did you try to start it with the light still connected? That will not work. The light does not allow the circuit to break so you'll get no spark. Disconnect the light and try to start it again.

Details...

This does not really mean anything. You touched the negative post of the coil? Was the key on? Did the test light flash? Was the engine running when you did that? The details will have the clues. You're just not providing enough information.

That's the beauty of the wiring diagram of the system. You can do little tricks like grounding the injectors to see if the circuit is complete. There's another trick you can do by grounding the coil negative pin. But, just like taking measurements, there's a certain sequence that needs to be followed. Confirm one thing before moving on to the next.

Where did you get the ECU? Is it new?