Zed Head

First gear is where you'll notice the changes. 4th gear is always 1:1. But between those two choices you have a 3.321 1st, or a 3.062 1st. If you live in a hilly area or do a lot of city driving, the lower 12.95 overall might feel right. If you live on flat ground and don't do a lot of stop and go, you'll probably find that 1st is pretty "short". Also, the other notable difference between the two choices is that the early 5 speed has a noticeable gap from 2nd to 3rd. If you're climbing or trying to accelerate you need to stay in 2nd longer than you'd think to get a good shift. Waa...waaaaaa...waaaa...waaaa...waaaaaa versus waa..waa..waaa..waaaa...waaaaa Don't forget to calculate the effect of tire size. 3.321 x 3.54 = 11.75 3.062 x 3.9 = 11.94 3.321 x 3.9 = 12.95

Well, that's a bummer. Looks like a nice car with no major problems. Add more pictures, a lot of them, with closeups (the single image you posted is from a distance), and you'll probably sell it pretty quick. Nothing wrong with hanging around if you sell your Z (I think).

No offense intended, but it's all right there in the FSM. The booster is adjusted to work with the MC. You have to put the flange on the booster and adjust the rod to the proper distance.

The screw I vaguely remember. p.s. there's a circlip that keeps the piston in the bore. Should be visible.

I have a memory of a "stop" screw in the M/C's that stops the travel of the piston in the bore. I wonder if your "new" Tokico has been reassembled incorrectly. The position of the piston at the opening of the bore should be the same for both MC's. They both have the same ID. All signs point to incorrect Tokico, or Tokico assembly. I'm going to guess that somebody put the piston on the wrong side of the stop screw. Post pictures of those same two MC's but from the open end.

They're very close to the same length and should work the same way. Sounds more like there might be something wrong with the "new" Tokico. Make sure you're fixing the correct problem.

What's the measurement? Sounds like you're mixing and matching parts. If I interpret your posts correctly it sounds like you're saying that the rod #2 is sticking out of the booster by almost an inch and is causing the Tokico piston to bottom out in the bore. Can't imagine it came that way. No offense but your words don't present a clear picture. How about a real picture, of the booster with the rod sticking out?

You could have the stock cam regorund if it wasn't damaged. But, the Z22E is an EFI engine and its engine management might not work well with a non-stock cam. 1982 is still pretty primitive, I don't think it's tuneable, besides the AFM and other parts designed for a certain cam profile. So, you might end up needing Megasquirt or one of the other engine management systems. https://www.racetep.com/engine-building/camshaft-grinding.html

What is the oil pressure doing? I think that they use the same internal voltage regulator. Might be a bad gauge. Measure resistance of both of those and it might tell you something. I'm not sure if the resistance curve is the same as a 280Z water temperature sensor but it might be. Put your probe on the body of the unit and the terminal to measure resistance.

The available stroke will not affect brake operation if both of them offer "enough" stroke. (That's what he said?...). I don't think that you should worry about the MC stroke. When working on the brakes most of the adjustment is in removing the play in each transfer of power, and getting each part in its proper starting position. If you can get the #2 rod adjusted as the FSM describes, and the other rod to the pedal, #13 in the cabin, the brakes should work as well as they could. The extra stroke of the Sanyco will not be needed (he said...). I copied the instructions above from 1972. Here is the from 1970, that I downloaded from CZCC.

I'd think that most people know the factory setting, assembled, but few know the length of the rod. Not sure why you're talking about depressed and stroke. It's just a starting point and the stroke distance is determined by the pedal travel. Also, the "piston" in the booster does not resemble a piston. Maybe you're talking about one of the rods?

I'm not sure but I think that you just peel the rubber boot back and pull them straight apart. That's how other connections are up there. Here's a thread with a picture of a set unplugged.

Examine the seals and feel how the joints move. If the seals are good and they move freely, replace the screws with Zerk fittings, grease them up and use them. You only need one Zerk, you'll only insert it for the greasing, then put the screw back in. They'll be tighter than brand new aftermarket u-joints.

Everyone here thinks DIY first but it seems to me that the guy who installed it didn't get it quite right. Seems like he needs to lengthen a couple of hangers. Should be easy. p.s. actually if there rubber loops at the top of that hanger, it might be super easy. Just get a longer one. Or just bend the J hook that goes through the loop.

Air conditioning magnet valves (solenoids) and vacuum reservoir. Take care of those parts, and the hoses.

Don't get discouraged if it starts running poorly as you correct the PO's errors. There are many tuning tips out there that people use to make things work again after they get wrong. If it ran well once it will run well again. It should be possible to have an engine that runs great AND does not smell like a cloud of gasoline vapors.

Yes, that is your PCV valve. There is a port in the side of the block on that side that should have a hose that runs up to that valve. The hole in the middle of the valve is letting unfiltered and unmetered air directly in to the intake manifold.

Don't forget this high resistance location. And backfeeding if one bulb is out. Don't see that headlight bulb quality has been verified. Carry on... https://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Have you checked power in to the fuse box? I don't know the early wiring well but if it was a 280Z you'd be checking the fusible links. The 73 240Z electrical chapter is surprisingly oblique and unhelpful. Also, as SteveJ inferred on the flashers, voltage can be present but current not guaranteed. I would rig up a test light that draws a small amount of current, for your kind of problem. Many people make up their own with a tail bulb or halogen head lamp. Two wires with a bulb in the middle. Measure voltage then hit it with the test light. If the light doesn't light, there's probably a break opening in the circuit somewhere, due to heat. The meter doesn't pull enough to cause it. If it does light, but not when the correct circuit is connected, then it's probably a ground problem. Just some thoughts on breaking the problem in to smaller pieces. p.s. I know that the backs of the 240Z fuse boxes can get pretty messed up. Problem not visible unless you pull the box up.

I'd go with the How to Rebuild advice, to start. The cam tower bolt torque spec mistake is well known, but seems to be the only significant one in the whole book. Put things together without fully torquing, if you have the time, and you'll be able to tell if you're going to have issues. Most of the shimming and work involved is for the purpose of getting the chain to do its thing without problems. Jeff G's advice is based on the principles of how things are supposed to be, a lot of advice is based on how somebody else did it and it "worked" (p.s. not directed at anyone on the site just the world in general). You'll probably end up in between, I'd guess. I think that 108 mm is the factory spec for head thickness. It converts to 4.25 inches. Significant figures and all that stuff. I think that lash pad height might be another reason to shim. If the top of the head was shaved, the cam towers and cam will be lower. So, if my guess is right, that's a whole separate reason for tower shims, after the chain considerations. I've not rebuilt a complete engine though, my engine rebuilding has been in my head and the internet, so I could be way off. But these are the things that crop up.

Barefootdan's engine was in much worse shape than yours appears to be. Don't get too far ahead in assuming major problems. A loose spark plug can cause a miss, but stuck valves or shot piston rings cannot cause a loose spark plug. Oll, gas, or moisture on the plug threads of a plug is not a surprise, the gases creep in to the threads and condense there. Put a clean set of plugs in and give the engine a good tuneup before assuming terrible things. The pictures show that a PO did some "hacking". The PCV hoses are not correct, the crankcase is open to the atmosphere. If the PO did not know about the hose under the intake manifold where the valve is the intake manifold might have a major leak. 76 has the fuel pump relay contact in the AFM and the AFM needs all of the air entering the engine to pass through it. Low air flow can kill the fuel pump power.

Get this guy back on it. He probably has the tools, maybe, or can help you figure things out. And, big picture, your grandson might get more out of completing your project than just driving it. Who knows. I see potential surface rust plus dry seals here... But don't see the need to pull the engine.

You're in a zone where you have to use some of your own gut feel. If you have a piece of tube that will fit tightly over the tip of the valve you could slip that over the valve tip so that you can hang on to it. Remove that rocker arm and see if you can rest the valve on the piston top without dropping it all the way in. Pull the valve up and spin it to see if it's bent. Really though, you're just assessing damage at this point. Even if you want to put it back together you'll need a valve spring compressor. If you don't have plans to do the work yourself you might be best off to have a pro look at it and give you an assessment. A pro with a bore scope could take a look and tell you there's piston damage, maybe cylinder head damage. Today's borescopes are inexpensive and powerful. You could learn a lot without taking it apart. If the valve head had been destroyed and come apart I'd expect the sparkplug to have been damaged as the pieces bounced around. It seems like maybe the valve took one hit, got bent, got stuck up in the guide, and the noise was the rocker rattling off of the cam lobe as the engine kept running. You're most likely going to have to remove the head, it's just a matter of how much you want to do before making that decision.

It has the 78 fuel rail. But many of the factory hose clamps have been replaced, so somebody has definitely had those parts off in the past. Typical mystery motor. You can piecemeal things, or do a thorough tuneup in one shot. You'll probably end up doing everything by the time you're done. Compare mileage to valvetrain condition and you can probably see if there is $8000 in there. There are other external clues too.

Looks like you have bigger wider wheels also. The wheels on the Z's sit forward in the wheelwells. It bothers some people and they try to center them, but that takes a lot of work.