LeonV

You don't want the wheels moving at all. Tie the steering wheel firmly. I didn't see a mention of a spoiler in OP's post. And no, I don't think it would be an issue unless the car was lowered and the dolly raised it up to an extreme angle. If it is an issue, take the air dam off.

Or you can just tow with the rear wheels up...

What makes you think the gasket is leaking? Did you check for leaks?

Agreed. It transforms the car!

Check the throttle blade with the pedal wide open. Adjust the pedal stop as necessary.

Door beams first appeared on the '73 240Z. Late 240Z and all 260Z doors are noticeably heavier than early 240Z versions. FWIW, if you've ever driven a bone-stock 240Z, you'd realize that it's a pretty damn good GT as well! It's when you start putting in stiffer springs, dampers, bushings, etc that it becomes more race-car like and less street friendly. All S30s have their place, but the 260Z does a great job of combining some key features of the 240Z and 280Z.

Tow with the rear wheels up and the steering wheel secured. Done.

I've found that once you dive in and do some research, it's really not that bad. Some parts are 240Z, some are 280Z and a few are 260Z only. FWIW, all 260Z's came with electronic ignition, a first in the US Z-line.

Read the head section of the "How to Rebuild" book, this is why you bought it... In a nutshell, you can take it to a machine shop to do guides, seals, seats, and check valves. The cam can be cleaned up and reused as long as you keep each valve with its matching lash pad and rocker. It's cheaper if you perform disassembly/assembly yourself.

I completely agree! The interior is nicer in the 260Z, it came stock with a rear ARB, and looks just like a 240Z if you're comparing an early 260Z. They don't get much respect so you can find them cheaper, but sssh, don't tell anyone.

I can attest to that next step! Unfortunately, I missed out on a set of HKS ITBs but I'm on the prowl!

Technically speaking, the modifications you've made are illegal. You will not be able to sell it to someone in a smog-enforced county without getting it to pass a smog test first (meaning you'd have to return it to stock). Selling it to a non smog-enforced county may be easier...

I've got the same tool, but haven't put it to use yet. It's very clever!

Old gas? I'd be more concerned about the condition of the brake fluid, oil and coolant before I'd worry about old gas. How long has the car sat?

The proper firing order for ANY straight-six engine is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Otherwise, you will get strong harmonic imbalances. The proper orientation of plug wires on the distributor is counter-clockwise (direction of rotation).

No way. Maybe if you cut the price in half.

Did you pay for it already? Don't fix someone else's car, either buy it and fix it, or don't buy it. Replacing a fusible link is about as difficult as replacing a fuse. Your post is nebulous, why do you think the issue is a fusible link? Is there no power at all when the key is turned?

I'm an engineer as well, hence why I made the suggestion! Sometimes we get so caught up in trying to make everything as good as possible that we lose sight of the big picture. Just trying to keep you on the right track.

Nope. It will idle for an unexpectedly long amount of time on just the bowls. With the engine running, the pump will get the fuel moving very quickly.

FWIW, You can always make something better, but it doesn't mean it's a better solution. I'm not telling you not to do it but that plan sounds expensive. If you plan to remove 20 spindle pins, then maybe the economics of it come out better, but for the "casual" spindle-pin remover (i.e. a few sets in a lifetime) it may not be worth it.

The better and easier way is to manually fill the carb bowls with fuel and start the car.

Reset your carbs.

Carbs, or even better, standalone EFI is preferable in running a flat-top L28 with a small chamber head, i.e. high compression, especially since a hotter cam is typically used alone with it. Factory EFI was not designed for this. A header is not the first place to start. In fact, it's the last place. Do some research. High compression, flat-top L28s have been around for decades. The information is not difficult to find. You can also buy the How to Rebuild and How to Modify books as they relate specifically to L-series engine rebuilds.

260Z tachs were, for some reason, not very durable. I have a feeling your tach is slowly dying. Mine worked intermittently and then died so I replaced it with a 280Z tach and never looked back. Switch the faceplates out if you want to retain the 260Z plate and you're good to go.

How did you fix it, it would be nice to know.