LeonV

In that case, that joke would be more applicable were it Assar Gabreilsson instead of FA Porsche.

Does it matter? If you're set on staying with the L24, then it seems like you're not going for all out performance. Keeping the original L24 would be more of an emotional decision and not necessarily a rational one, i.e. if you were to only go by the numbers. A similarly-built L28 will have more power and torque. When it comes down to it, an L28 will have more but a well-tuned L24 will have plenty to have fun with. Nobody can predict the difference between some hypothetical L28 and L24.

If you want to compare and learn about the system, you can download free Factory Service Manuals at xenons30.com and xenons130.com.

That was too good to pass up!

If the '75 is stock, the EFI is nearly identical to the ZX. Take a picture of the engine compartment, it will be clear whether it's EFI or carb and the type of carb(s) if it did get converted.

You have a lot of reading and research ahead of you...

The camber issue in the back, plus the overspray would lead me to thoroughly inspect the rear of the car. Look underneath for bent mounts and control arms, and look in the hatch interior (take panels off) for crinkling of metal.

Maybe it's just the photo, but it looks like there are serious camber issues on the rear wheel. I'd check for damage, i.e. bent parts, frame, etc.

This has absolutely nothing to do with your timing chain. The chain controls valve timing, i.e. the relationship of the camshaft to the crankshaft. The distributor controls spark timing, the relationship of the spark plug firing to crankshaft postition. Your distributor was installed incorrectly and the plug wires were routed to compensate. 40 degrees of spark advance is way too much (let alone 47! ), dial it down so that you have about 33-35 degrees of total advance.

Interesting. If the progression holes are okay, then you are on your way to having a properly-running set of triples! I don't think the throttle valves were chamfered, unless someone modified them. But yes, it is a trick to get the throttle position just right for a smooth tip-in without raising idle speed or enriching the idle mixture. Looks like you've run into the typical triple carb installation issues, e.g. mismatched manifold thickness, throttle linkage, intake hitting header flange, etc. I remember the night I decided to slap my triples on. Started the swap around 9 or 10pm and finished around 1 or 2am. I had to hear them run so I started it up with an open header in the middle of the night. Oh the joy!

Cygnusx1 sells a nice linkage kit should you decide to change it up. I'm curious how your progression holes up with the throttle plate. The slightest throttle opening should expose the first downstream progression hole, otherwise you'll have a stumble. Good luck!

Thank you! I was just looking around for that thread, to link it here...

I use the mechanical pump with the stock feed and return lines for my triples. I do have an RX7 pump laying around that I plan on installing sometime... I'm not sure why you're fixated on Holley regulators. Search around a bit, especially on HybridZ to see what others have run. A "backpressure regulated" system is what you're looking for.

It's very simple, the regulator gets placed in-line with your return line. It essentially replaces the small orifice in the stock fuel rail's return line. Fuel comes from the carbs, into the regulator, out of the regulator, to the return line and back to the tank. I'm sure info on specific regulators is out there, I don't have any part numbers for you but there are a ton out there that will work.

Running a return will help. Heat insulation is key as well, make sure you have a heat shield installed between the exhaust manifold and carbs.

Return lines have benefits. You will have cooler fuel, a shorter response time and put less stress on your fuel pump with a functional return line. I'd go with a back-pressure regulated system: tank -> pump -> carbs -> regulator -> tank. This lets the pump flow freely, while controlling the restriction before the carbs in order to maintain steady pressure. This setup allows you to have fuel volume available on demand at all times, i.e. if the need for fuel quickly rises, the restriction gets smaller and more fuel is delivered to the floats immediately.

The Beck Arnley branded ball joints from Rockauto are the same "555" manufacturer and cost less than Moog or Raybestos.

Think about the way the cooling system works. Cool water comes from the radiator into the bottom of the block where the water pump sends it through the water jackets, into the head, and out through the thermostat back into the radiator. The heater gets it's hot water from a fitting at the back of the cylinder head and sends the return water back to the water pump inlet. With the hoses connected, the control valve regulates flow. When the heater lines are looped, you are connecting the back of the cylinder head with the water pump inlet. This means you are now pumping the hottest coolant back into the water pump inlet which is supposed to be receiving the lowest temp coolant! The loop bypasses the radiator by giving the hot coolant a path of least resistance back into the water pump. TonyD has done instrumented testing and included the results in the "Head cooling on cylinder #5" thread on HybridZ showing that at low load, and mid/high speed cruise rpm the temperature difference between looped and non-looped coolant temps is 50 degF! Yes, 50 degrees! Source: LINK

If the plan is to bypass the core, do not loop the heater lines. Plug them.

If you'd like to keep the "look" of the original L-Jet, then hide the MS in your old ECU case, keep the IAT and MAP sensors hidden, gut the AFM and you're good to go! Nobody would notice a thing. I suspect most are not interested in keeping the old hardware, especially since most people that go to MS don't do it to stay stock.

Those are the XXR 513. Not very good looking, IMO.

Nice find!

Great job! I take out RLS30-004406 on nice days, maybe I'll see you around!

This keeps pointing to a vacuum leak, at this stage. Popping occurs at the point of high vacuum and higher-than-idle fuel demand, and it gets better with more fuel. Seems like the mating surfaces have been checked, as well as hoses (booster, PCV, vac advance, any emissions hardware, etc.). I suppose you could double check (triple or quadruple at this point?) anything that is exposed to manifold vacuum. We'll see how the triples respond.

You'll have a lot better luck at hybridz.org with the info you're looking for. There are a lot of MS guys there and Matt Cramer actually frequents as well.