Everything posted by LeonV
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240Z Eibach Springs in 260Z
If by sportier feel, you mean higher ride frequency, then yes. Whether that’s a good thing is another discussion. You should be able to find used isolators pretty easily. A spacer will more less do the same job, yeah.
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240Z Eibach Springs in 260Z
@heyitsrama you installed the wrong springs, 12/73 is an early 260Z. The 280Z gets a shorter spring in the rear due to the taller isolator, if I’m not mistaken. You should fit 240Z springs or install 280Z rear top mounts. However, 280Z spring rates are stiffer than 240Z so you will end up sitting a bit higher. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, just depends what you’re after.
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L28+(maxima)47 build
That combo must have a healthy compression ratio. Looking forward to seeing the results. ?
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Rota RB Help!!!
I've run 225's on stock struts previously, they'll clear fine with the right offset. I ran 225/50-16 on my previous Z on 16x7 ET6 Panasports without rubbing on stock fender arches, although the front valence was aftermarket. FWIW, I have a personal preference against locking lug nuts. Anyone with a common wheel lock removal tool can still get them off and for the 99.999% of the time that my wheels aren't being stolen, a special tool is needed to remove them for service. Wheel locks are also typically not impact gun friendly. My Z is parked in the garage and I don't typically leave it in places where there's a good chance it'll be put up on blocks. Insurance will take care of things out of my control. Everyone's situation is different, just providing a perspective.
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Rota RB Help!!!
Thanks, appreciate it! It's an early 260, correct. The color is allegedly a Jaguar BRG but was originally "baby poo yellow", as described by the previous owner. Didn't mean to sidetrack your thread. I don't have direct experience with a 215/60-15 tire on a Z but with that said, the main area I'd be concerned about is rubbing on the front valence during steering, especially when going in reverse. Also, there aren't any real sporting tires in that size that I can find besides maybe the very overpriced Pirelli. I'd consider a 205/55-15 instead based on tire selection although the 215/60 will look better if you're keeping stock ride height.
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Rota RB Help!!!
Thanks! It's on sectioned struts with Bilstein inserts and height adjustable coilovers. Camber adjustment is via bolt-in DP Racing camber plates, they've only got 4 discrete positions but they're well thought-out and compact. Plus, zero mods required on the body and I can still go +/- from the current settings. Don was great to work with as far as ensuring fit with the Bilsteins.
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Rota RB Help!!!
Hi Jeff, I haven't had any problems getting a socket in, I believe it's a 19mm but it's been a while since I've taken the wheels off. I typically use sockets with protectors on them in any case. I'm running 15X8 Watanabes (ET0) with 225/50-15 tires without issue although my fender lips and valence are trimmed. Camber is -3° front/-2.3° rear.
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Rota RB Help!!!
You need conical lug nuts, the OEM is an acorn-style. I'm currently running these, as I prefer the plain, open-ended style: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-40027/overview/
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The Sound of Z
Getting fancy in the OSG car with that Motec ECU. Must be a hell of a cooling fan on that radiator to need need any cooling while on the dyno.
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Coil Pack Conversion - More Info Needed
I ran Megajolt on my previous Z because I wanted a stout, fully-programmable ignition system at a low cost as I was running triples for fueling. It's easy to setup, tune, and is rock solid. I highly recommend Megajolt if you're considering standalone ignition but want to keep the carbs. I'm running a 123ignition distributor on the current Z because I again wanted a fully-programmable ignition system but this time I also wanted to keep a period look. There is no other good reason to stay with a distributor if you're considering a DIS, IMO. The 123 is not as robust and high performing as Megajolt but it's as good as it gets for distributors.
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Coil Pack Conversion - More Info Needed
The ZX distributor is the common go-to and a good sweet-spot between the extremes. The tach can be made to work.
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Keith Franck's webstore
Yep, that's his distribution method.
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Coil Pack Conversion - More Info Needed
There's a lot of information on this at HybridZ. I ran Megajolt on my previous 260Z, it's a relatively easy system to get running. The only real challenges are the trigger wheel and sensor, and those can be bought off the shelf to make it almost trivial.
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Lightening of the flywheel
That's been my experience, yeah.
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Lightening of the flywheel
Stock flywheels are single mass, dual mass flywheels were not around when these cars were built. A light one won't be any more noisy than OEM.
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Lightening of the flywheel
??
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
Nice project! Gotta love starting with a solid base.
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Lightening of the flywheel
I don't have any issues in the hills of San Francisco with a 10lb flywheel. The stock pressure plate and disk allow for easy engagement and an L28 with a 3.9 is plenty torquey. You're overthinking it.
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R180 Identification
Doubt you can discern any meaning from those numbers. The ratio will be in xx:xx format, e.g. 39:10 which means a 3.9 ratio. Take another look at the ring gear.
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Brake upgrade
Porterfield can provide that information. https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
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Nice vintage weber 45s on ebay
One is a 27 and the other two are 18's. Someone took a matched pair and added a third.
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thoughts on 5spd and diff combos
I ran the close ratio box with a 3.54 and it really fit the GT feel of the car. I've since swapped to a 3.9 LSD and while it's turned into a more spirited drive, it's definitely buzzier on the freeway. I seem to settle into a natural cruising speed closer to 70 rather than 80mph with the 3.54. There are merits to both but if you're doing a lot of cruising, the 3.54 is the way to go. I run an L28/P90 combo with a decent cam and 10lb flywheel and have no issues with hill starts with the amount of torque the motor puts out.
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F54/P79 Swap Project
This is not complicated, Captain Obvious is correct. The sprocket connects to the cam and the cam is free to spin. The sprocket's clocking doesn't change chain tension, outside of the fact that the valve springs can statically load the sprocket to favor a direction. When the sprocket is removed and set to various positions, it can feel as if it's altering chain tension. With the engine running, chain tension is the unchanged although cam timing would be different.
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Front suspension renew and adjustment
- Finally Taking the Plunge - EFI
Nice work, Jim! It's nice to see someone running the heritage bodies, I've been admiring them from a distance for a while. I did the same on my Z, made the exhaust as quiet as possible so that I could hear the DCOE's roar. I like your style. Now post some videos! - Finally Taking the Plunge - EFI
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