Zedrally

This would have to be an infringement of copyright.

Ah yes there was. A very special cross flow head manufactured by a Japanese engineering company. Use the search fuction and you will find a thread on this subject.

Scotts Old Auto Rubber carry all these profiles and sell by the meter. Don't have the actual address, look it up in the Yellow Pages. Located in Oakeigh, Victoria. I've used them in the 240 with great success and didn't leave a hole in the wallet. edit: I think it's Haughton Rd. They also sell profiles for any car and Old Rover Parts!

Ha, bet he's a Tom! Mine does the same! Heaven help anyone who wants to tickle that tempting tummy!

So you had a diabetic cat as well! After it had been diagnosed, the vet gave me vial of insulan and instructed me how to " inject". Only problem was he left only 1 syringe with me. YOu can only imagine the reaction I got t from people when you're in a pharmacy [drug store] asking the assistant for a package of syringes for your diabetic cat! I'm sure to this day no-one believed me! :stupid:

Excellent write up of how to, however, I need to add a bit. The primary reason the clock may have stopped ticking may be simply that it needs oiling! However, just to oil the jewels may lead to erratic running as the reason for the stoppage in the first place would be binding of the balance staff to jewel, or other location holes due to a build up of dust and thickening of oil. The correct procedure is to clean it first. The simplest way available to any budding watchmaker would be to use a small artists brush and shellite to brush away any residue that has been built up over the years, you would also use the same method on any other location holes. Work carefully and make sure the assembly is completely dry, before applying the smallest drop of high quality mineral. We used "moebius"oil for French Clocks. To give you an idea of how much oil to use, make yourself an oiler out of a very thin piece of wire .5mm thick and file a small taper. When you dip this in the oil [only 1mm in] it should give you a "bee's d***" drop of oil which when deposited on the location holes will be sufficient to operate for the next 30 years! Remember, over oiling will cause problems with binding. Now thats how it was done. The simple way of cleaning. 1. Buy a can of carb cleaner. 2. [Assuming you have the movement out of the movement holder]. Go outside and using the fine nozzle that comes with the carb cleaner, spray clean the movement, taking care that you don't melt any wire connections. 3. Air dry 4. Oil. Personally I would use the brush method as you can "feel" your way along rather than blasting in, anothe r method would be to drop the movement into an ultrasonic cleaner, then oil. *****Disclaimer******* If you choose to follow the above, whatever you do make sure you work around ANY electrical wires. Preferably removing any coils or such prior to cleaning. Mike

Have done this conversion on both cars. Can reccomend it as it doesn't chop up the cable, used alternator from a 280zx, plugs fitted directly into the unit without modificiation, requiring only the removal of the VR.

Hey, don't be sorry, it's only that my late father was a watchmaker, so you got to learn the trade names. Whilst discussing these clocks, I remember back in '76 my clock in my fist zed decided to spit the dummy. I pulled it out [heater control method, which incidently is in the FSM]. Proudly presented it to my father for repair who had one look at it, pronounced it a useless piece of Japanese engineering, quite rightly as there where some immaculate watch movements coming out of Japan at the time, he proded and poked at it for a few minutes, then pronouced it dead. Burnt coil! No parts available. So just by chance you decide to clean it and it still doesn't work then the coil will be burnt out. The best practical fix would be to re-engineer a quartz movement into the housing. I believe someone already written an article on this somewhere on this site.

The principles are all the same. Just don't forget the diode!

For the watchmakers out there. The "pendulum" is called a Balance Wheel and the axle is the Balance Staff.

Some interesting results coming out from the left hookers! Wonder if only RHD models had the clutch stamped, which begs the question, if they did then did Nissan manufacture a different clutch for Rh & LH drives? I'll have a look [with a mirror of course] later in the afternoon!

Carl, Wonderful article on the Ignitor. After seeing the photos, one cannot make the assumption that the Pertronix is mearly a reed switch activated by a magnet. Am I correct on this? Are there any Aussie Guys using this system? Keep those fingers hitting the keyboard and look forward to more in depth how to's!

In which case they are unique!

It's most likely the points. Check the gap, if there closed then adjust to .5mm.

I think the original discussion point may have been based on uniqueness, rather than rarity. To say zeds are rare is a contradiction as over 1/2 a million where built, however, some varients are unique and surviving examples of these may be considered rare by some. Depending on how the question is put, different answers will eminate from different corners of the globe! :classic:

Looking good, but what is a rosette?

Well that number is indeed rare! Wonder if it's the last one produced or is there a later number. If not your 240 is indeed rare!

You didn't mention the rim? I'm not sure if it's the same thread, however I mentioned in one that I had a similar problem caused by the rim going off centre. 2 possible solutions where: Buy new rims, which I did and the problem went or have them plug, welded up and new holes drilled. Good luck

If you want to replace it with "something" out of a Mustang etc, just save yourself $$$$ and time and buy a Mustang or whatever to begin with. Honestly, if you don't like the zed as it was designed then may I suggest that a complete re-design isn't warrented, it's much simpler to buy what you want in the first place!

Sell it and buy a 260!

My guess would be 1970.

After you Mike, Lead the way old son!

I would doubt it. The kit was designed for a SX. Contact the manufacturer for specific details.

Amazing how quickly this thread has moved. Nice to see 2many in person at last, putting a face to a name brings you out of the cold. Now for that other faceless person, yes, betadog, you know who you are! ROFL