Zedrally

Something similar was marketed years ago that stopped body rust.

Yes the later model 260's did have Electric pumps, but the $50 new option is much prettier than a used $30 one! [if you can source one].

Ha, would love to have a $1 for every time I've had to take parts back because they where from a different model year. Spot on Alan T. The best so far has been 280z parts [remember that model didn't exist in AUS] for the 260. Still can't exactly remember which rear brake it uses, as I have all 3 as spares! I seem to also remember some figures posted by KATS last year on the S30, didn't those given the definitive number? Yes Alan P, those figures that where quoted are as rubbery as a rubber check, and feel exactly the same when I see them quoted. MOM

Just tow it back to the RAAF Base until needed!

Another Snake Oil salesman. Honestly, I can't believe the stupidity of some.......

Gav, I believe the pump used on RX 7's is a suitable replacement and much easier to find. HIH

You're right on the money there Alan. I think that one reason there appears more sold is the 2+2's where more commonly seen in the Dealerships. I remember when I brought my first one, all the was available was a 2+2. For a 2 seater I had to join the list! The reality probably is that Nissan Japan dumped all the RHD 2+2's that they over made into Aus.

I can't help you. Both of mine are 240 or 260. Having said that it could be throttle opener for the A/C. Part of the anti back fire system or any other zany emmision control device you care to think about. Best advice is to get a FSM, it will save you much fustration.

On what engine?

Hi pusher, what plugs are you using? FYI the search function doesn't return an actual value!

Your quite right, it doesn't keep it locked. It's amazing that after 30 years of driving these cars, I actually looked at the mechanism last night. There is no spring either, all that the magent does is to keep the black undo clip in the done-up position. In other words in takes place of a spring. The force of the magnet isn't strong, maybe it's weakened over the years, however if you didn't look for it you would miss it!

well if you can't afford normal reg & insurance it's a good way of keeping your be-loved K on the cheap.

Why not join a club that has access to Historic Registration? $80 per year down here and all the club events that you want to drive in!

Well it has to be either one. Best to test by removing the cap, firmly grasping the rotor button and checking for shaft play by attempting to move the button left to right. No play then most likely the cap, if there is play in the shaft the problem are the bearings. At this stage I haven't read of anyone actually being able to find replacement bearings, so the best option would be to find a suitable replacement at a wrecker.

Worn distributer cap maybe?

Have you tried Scott's Old Auto Rubbers in Oakleigh Victoria? I've used there rubbers with good results.

around 8/9K

Hi all, this was posted to the HRA e-group. Thought it may be of interest to Rally Orientated people, so have cut this in it's entirity. Any proof of it actually being a "genuine works car" greatfully recieved. MOM

The magnet may have been a PO modification as all that I have seen just clip together. Just out of interest the belts in my 77 are retractable with a push release on the side. [still no button]. The Kangol belts where most probably a modification of there lap belts, as to all intents and purpose's there is little difference in design apart from these being a 3 point pount against a lap of 2. I also seem to remember that around that time ADR [Australian Design Rules] where very primative and mostly none existant. Set belt laws were poiliced on a State by State basis and for a long time belts were not required by law in many states, so the possibility of these cars being inported without belts possibly exists. Interesting discussion, maybe Alan know more? MOM

The belts is my 73 are Kangol. Non retracting, with a latch type closure ie not push button. The center may have had an adhesive logo at some stage.

Personally, I would rather have a recognised Marque car any day!

Well, I've fallen into disgrace and in-advertantly purpetuated a mis-truth that was circulated by others on another list. After carefully checking the Shell site I can positively state that I was wrong! Optimax is 98 Octane LRP is 96.3 Racing is 107 and CAMS A3 [V8 supercar control fuel] is 98. I can't wait until the question shows up again on the other list! As for the head, I couldn't see any advantage, but I was wrong before so I'm probably wrong now! MOM

Shell LRP is a higher octane than Optimax. It's also cheaper. So when in Rome.......

If you promise not to mention Goertz, then Alan T [HS-30] should be able to help you.

OK, now we know what it does on a carbureted 260. The question remains what does it do on a FI 280?