Zedrally

Well, when I said some S20's imported into Aus, I really only now of one. I guess if there is a least one then there may be others? One would think it would be cheaper [least expensive to import directly from Japan, rather than NZ or AUS]. Many Japanese cars are being privately imported into Aus as "grey" imports, these being latter model GTR's etc.

Where have I said they where rare? I hate being mis-quoted. You might see a lot of them in Perth, not many left over here due to rusting.

These cars would have been privately imported into NZ. There are also some S20 zeds in Aus, also privately imported.

Sean, Australia was Nissan's dumping ground for all it's un-saleable cars. The 260 2+2 was sold here until 78, complete with flat tops BECAUSE there was plentiful stock of them and they [Nissan] had to palm them off somewhere, no prizes for guessing where they ended up either! In a way it made for some interesting local version with various combinations of model years appearing when the boat came in. Regards MN

May I suggest that you keep the bottle, it acts more as a vacuum reservoir and will be benefical when [if] changing heater modes. The solenoids are just that an air switch, I have a diagram at home, and am trying to remember the logic of it all! [one opens & the other closes, fan goes 1 speed higher than the switch allows] Even for those with A/c they can be confusing. FWIW, Nissan should have been able to design something simpler for the A/c unit.

Yes, in that case you can. Just plug up the holes. [i can now understand why these where a mystery to you, maybe a PO ditched the A/c as there is no reason for the factory to add these].

Those are part of the A/C.

On 260 models [& probably 280] all air functions are contolled by vaccum. This was a product of the new style dash.

Finished for Carol & the Boys, Have to wait till New Year for my Xmas present [a 260z from the collection of the one armed man, and I'll remind him about the metal G Nose]. Merry Xmas Alan, and all other classic zed members. Mike of the Mire

Local where Alan? I'm not aware of a 140Z ever being released in Aus, seems your not convinced either? I would suspect you are on the right track with a locally spec'd up varient of the 120Y, however 'not in Australia!

Thats the Fuel filter, it may be blocked/dirty, unlikely but worth ruling out. The fix on carbureted zeds with this problem, [ my 260 suffers from it, while my 240 doesn't], is to isolate the fuel lines from any heat, usually by means of a heat shield. As I mentioned at the start of my first reply, I don't now ANYTHING about FI & Turbo's, so I hope this doesn't lead you astray from the cause. Once again good luck!

I haven't the foggiest about FI, however, this is suspiciously similar to fuel starvation caused by vaporisation. Check your filter and fuel pump first, just to make sure they are OK and delivering fuel from a cold start, then re-check after you have warmed the engine up [similar to the time period when your problem starts]. Best I can suggest. HIH

zrush, how do you close the bonnet of your car? I'm assuming that IS your car in the avatar?

Definate 120Y with a front spoiler. 140Z, I seriously have my doubts. Nissan would have been advertising this in a big way otherwise. 120Y's were an in-expensive coupe for people to buy over here, not many exist now. Another interesting model is the Datsun Sunny 1000. Several are still being rallied succesfully in their class!

Carl, from memory they were a spade connnector or similar. Try you're local auto store. The rubber boots are a different story! edit: thats the female spade!

If the position it sits in is a problem then there is no reason that you can't heat and bend it. It's just that you will need to have it re-chromed after. Also consider that depending on how far you may want to re-position it may require a longer piece of rod. The best way of bashing this up first is to use copper tube to bend the curve required.

That means the gauge is OK. There is no earth exactly, thats why there are 2 wires to complete the circuit, else there would only be 1 and the body would be earth. [even though it is neutral with respect to the negative of the battery]. The fault is in your sending unit, sometimes it can even be the conectors, give them a good clean and squirt with wd40 and try again. Hopefully that is all that is required.

Thinking back, I remember Nissan making a song and dance about computer contol of the complete electrical system in their newer cars. So I guess thats what this thread is all about, or have I mis-read this? Has anyone adapted this system into their zed? Personally, apart from headlights I don't see any reason for relaying anything yes?

I guess that thats already occured with the starter. Many of us would probably have re-wired the lights wiyth relays. Which other areas would be suitable for this?

I wouldn't be surprised if the originals where NLA from Nissan anywhere in the world. Very rarely here [in Australia] would one go to a Nissan dealer for a key anyway, when a good locksmith could cut you a key for a fraction of the price. Try you're local "smithy', I'd be very surprised if they couldn't help!

Are there any benefits in this?

hhhh, the only person I know that ran a turbo with a webber kept on melting pistons. I guess that's why turbo & FI go hand in hand now-a-days. Good luck with your project.

Mustang maybe, on a L6 doubtful, or are you considering changing engines, in which case you may be better asking this question on hybribz?

I'm a little confused here? Have you changed the SU's from Flat Top to Round? If you have then the air filters are different. If this is the case consider de-smogging the engine [if you are allowed to] & use either a 240 air box or socks for filters. Perhaps a search under de-smogging will answer your questions. HIH

This was posted to me, so I thought I would pass it on! So you want to build you're zed into a dragster, read on!!! Kind of makes any other form of motor racing pale into insignificance. This will put motor racing right into perspective for you. These things are seriously impressive. One dragster's 500-inch Hemi makes more horsepower then the first 8 rows at Daytona (or Bathurst 1000). Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1 1/2 gallons of nitro per second, the same rate of fuel consumption as a fully loaded 747, but with 4 times the energy density. The supercharger takes more power to drive then a stock hemi makes. With nearly 3000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into nearly-solid form before ignition. Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lock. Dual magnetos apply 44 amps to each spark plug. This is the output of an arc welder in each cylinder. At stoichiometric (exact) 1.7:1 air/fuel mixture (for nitro), the flame front of nitro methane measures 7050 degrees F. Nitro methane burns yellow. The spectacular white flame seen above the exhaust stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases. Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. After 1/2 way, the engine is dieseling from compression plus the glow of exhaust valves at 1400 degrees F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting off its fuel flow. If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in those cylinders and then explodes with a force that can blow cylinder heads off the block in pieces or blow the block in half. Dragsters twist the crank (torsionally) so far (20 degrees in the big end of the crank) that sometimes cam lobes are ground offset from front to rear to re-phase the valve timing somewhere closer to synchronization with the pistons. To exceed 300mph in 4.5 seconds dragsters must accelerate at an average of over 4G's. But in reaching 200 mph well before 1/2 track, launch acceleration is closer to 8G's. If all the equipment is paid off, the crew worked for free, and for once NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run costs $1000.00 per second. Dragsters reach over 300 miles per hour before you have read this sentence. Top Fuel Engines ONLY turns 540 revolutions from light to light! The redline is actually quite high at 9500rpm. To give you an idea of this acceleration, the current TF dragster elapsed time record is 4.477 seconds for the quarter mile. This means that you could be coming across the starting line in your average Lingenfelter powered "twin-turbo" Corvette at 200 mph (on a FLYING START) and the dragster would BEAT you to the finish line FROM A DEAD STOP in a Quarter mile distance! regards, Con Alexandrovsky Electrical Engineer JELD-WEN Fibre of Australia