Zedyone_kenobi

Well I am thinking of picking up a set of those black Libra 4's in a 15x7, but I am not sure how that would look. In order for them to look right, the 'clover spokes' cannot be too long, or it looks weird. If the 4 thick spokes are the same size on the 14" and 15" rim and all that changes is the chrome or polished part, then it would look great I think. Very retro. I am trying to emulate the 4 spoke rim on the 71 SCCA Champion car I love so much. Just paying homage to a legend.

That is not unreasonable, but still a little surprising.

Found this car in the classifieds. this would be an example of what the VTO's would look like in a 14" size... In another words, they look awesome.

These are Libras right? If so, I think I will post this in the rim thread, as many like myself want a set of these 4 spoke wheels.

It is actually a bunch of stills I have. But the guys at the car meet, have some HD video they are splicing together. Should be pretty good!

Museum guy said I could pull my classic in front of their classic! Another pic. Ane one next to my most favorite plane of all time.... I have a ton of pics of the Corsair, if you would like some let me know. I have some of the engine starting and we go to watch it taxi away under its own power and fly off. The pilot then did a fly over. NOTHING On earth sounds better than an 18 cylinder radial!

You keep the faith Ben. The search for a great Z is not a short one. Think HOmers Odyssey more than Homer Simpson.

No thanks. But I can understand why this is happening. A changing of the guard is happening in the collector car world. The old baby boomers that drove up the prices of the muscle cars are fading away and the generation after who grew up dreaming of skylines and silvia's are coming into money now. Not that rare. Cars that were popular to kids of an older generation become in vogue again 30 years later when they can actually afford them. But if I compared the two, I would say Jared has done a far better job presenting his than the blue car guy. If Jared does not get 69, the blue guy definitely will not. But again, we will see!

Well 59 to 60k is not insane money for what it would take to make this car if you did none of the labor yourself. So I think that is fare. 125 was just on another planet insane. But I may be proven wrong. 2 more days and we will know. If the reserve has been met already at 59, then you can see he was realistic with the pricing this time around. If he truly believed it was worth 125k, he would have kept the reserve much higher than sub 59k. Still I wish him luck!

WEll I think the blog has it right. He can and should get half the asking price of 85000. But even at that level, I am afraid he would be lucky.

I sure do wish somebody would post a pick of a 240Z with retro 4's on it!!!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40535&highlight=brake+booster I just replaced mine with one from advanced auto. There was a hiccup or two. But in the end, my car has working power brakes for the first time since I owned it! There is a member in my post that said it was very hard to rebuild the booster, as some of the tools are not available.. or something.. anyway check it out, it may help.

This is my next project, Very good insight! I would like to redo my entire fuel system. Evap tank and all. Is the evap tank still available? I can do the tank cleaning stuff easy enough thanks to this review, but I do not want to alter my stock car. Also is there a diagram of the 71 240Z tank hose routing. The early Z's do not have an electrical pump. I want to replicate as much as possible. MSA has many hoses that are CRAZY expensive. I do not want to go buying stuff until I am sure I am buying the right stuff.

I would! My Z is over 2 years older than I am! In fact in 4 months, she turns 40, I should have a party.

never thought of that. We are potty training now. Almost have it licked. He loves sitting in the passenger seat, but he is only 3, and the only child seat we have is his convertible rear facing to forward facing and it is almost as big as my Z. So perhaps when I get him into a toddler forward facing seat,we can get him in the Z! Great idea!

Sadly I am the day care driver in the mornings, so I have to take my son in my WRX. Very hard to bring him to school, then go home and switch cars, and then go to work. So I am struggling to get 700 miles a year on her. I wish it were much more.

I have to inject something here. First you threw out there 300 HP as if that was the minimum you would take, and I hear that a lot from many people. Mostly young ones. Judging by the poor grammar, and the rose colored glasses and your past cars, I would say your pretty young and very new to Z's. I also think your reality has been very skewed by reading too many magazines. Tuning a computer controlled modern turbo car is NOTHING Like tuning an old carburated inline 6. Other than they are both air pumps, they have little to nothing in common. Now, lets get to business. What are you going to be using the car for? Realistically Is it a daily driver, is it a show car, is it a track rat? This is very important. Second, get 300 HP out of your head. There is nothing magical about that number. Vehicle weight, final drive ratio, good tires, suspension are all ways to make a car faster, that are FAR easier than monster HP to achieve and to live with day to day. Third, make a budget and stick to it. Do not let costs creep up and up in search for a number you will never get. Remember this. Making N/A HP is like running an old muscle car in the quarter mile. It is easy to get it to run 14's, but it gets far more expensive to run 13's and exponentially expensive to run 12's. Same for HP. You can take a stock L24 and get 165 HP out of it with some good parts and tuning, but to get 200 HP gets far more expensive, and to get 250, it is a big step function costing more money. Pick a budget and let the HP fall where it may. Third. The end result may be 220 HP with all your money spent, but keep in mind that true enjoyment comes from having a car that you can turn the key and reliably drive down the road and smile the whole time. It does not take monster HP to do this. Especially in a Z. Good luck, and thanks for your service to our country.

I could not watch this. did you guys happen to see the faces of the people after they showed them it was a Datsun. They were like, 'what the hell a datsun'. These are musclehead guys only, and they only know V motors. The only real talent on either team is the painters. The rest are just bolt on monkeys. The only thing they showcase is the talents of the painters, the interior guys an the body work folks. The engines are plug and play. In essence this is just a build your own lego car show. It would have been better if they had a V8 and an L6 to choose from.

Are those 14" or 15" konigs?

For me this is not an option,as I do not want to modify my mostly all stock car, but I must say your ingenuity is outstanding. If I was building a modified street Z,I would definitely buy this. VERY cool feature!

Installing a rear sway bar should not make you ride any higher. That is strange. Perhaps since the car was jacked up and the suspension was unloaded the car just sits higher since the struts were fully extended. That close clearance spooks me. I guess It is designed to work.

Well I managed to remove and install my drivers side rear wheel bearings in the course of one week. Which is a blistering pace. Everything went smoothly except for two things. First, I have heard some advice on how to get the big freaking nut off the stub axle. All of it good I am sure, but I can tell you one way NOT to do it. DO not take the easy way out and use an impact wrench to get the peened nut off. Yes it will come off in a a matter of seconds with little to no effort on your part, BUT, and here is the but, it will gall the holy hell out of the last two threads of your axle. Ask me how I know this . Well the machine shop I took to get my bearing pressed on was kind enough to fix those threads for me. Second, with the car on jack stands, and the wheel off, it is next to impossible to get 200 ft lbs of torque on that damn nut when putting it back on. The problem is that when tightening the nut you are pushing up on drivers side. that means the suspension will compress what ever bar you have wedged in between the lugnuts against the floor will want to turn. I had a two and a half foot pipe that came with my floor jack I used to wedge it in, and I actually bent the darn pipe before my click'y torque wrench indicated 200 ft lbs. I had to use a hydraulic jack to push my torque wrench up and STILL did not hear it click. IF this had been the passenger rear side, I would have pushed down and this would have not been an issue. So I decided that this was tight enough, and I took out my hammer and peened the nut on both sides as well as I could. It looks like it is in the same position as the one I took off. And Lord knows it is tight. Also the atlantic Z sight is great, those pieces of advice are spot on. Freezing the inner bearing to install works fine, but still takes quite a lot of persuasion to get on. Freezing the outer bearing on the stub axle works flawlessly and I was able to get it fully installed with only two light hammer taps. The slop in my wheel that I could feel is now gone and I can move over to the next project.

boyracer, if that is your white Z, please paint the front spoiler to match, it will look so much better! And 225 on 10" rims can be done, but it will look positively ridiculous. I know some guys in the VW world do it but it is unsafe and hurts handling in more ways than I can get into.

I was more worried about what 5150 above and the regulars. I have been competitive for a few years when I was autocrossing, but again, that was only in a 2006 WRX STI that was mildly modded. Hitting cones was never really a problem, but it took me 2 years to learn to drive the STI fast. The Z will not be entering any regular racing, but I think it is good to go out and race them from time to time to keep them honest so they do not get use to being a garage queen. THanks for your answers, I will get a hold of my local chapter to see where they want to put me. Like you said Gnosez, I really do not care about the times so much as I want to have some fun sliding the Z around.

Well I have run nothing but subarus for a while, but really want to give RWD in an autocross a try. The Z seemed very fun to drive during track days, but the lack of power gave it a disadvantage. However, autocross is all about being nimble, and responsive. I am running 195/60/15's, potenza UHP all season rubber, but those tires are living on borrowed time. I just found a sight that sells DOT approved race tires in 205/50/15's for 125 each. I paid more for my all seasons! Now I have no intention on trying to be seriously competitive with this car, I just want to be properly classed.