Zedyone_kenobi

THe LS engines are an easy fit, but the true heart and soul of that Z is the L series engine. If you have to upgrade it, may I humbly suggest an L28. I dropped an L28 into my 240Z and part of me still sort of regrets it. I love the power of the L28, but one day I have plans to drop the L24 back into her, but with a VERY healthy rebuild. We will see. I may make the L24 rebuild a project for my son and I.

What you are decreasing is running torque. I always torque based on running torque plus specified torque. Dirty threads add resistance to bolt insertion. This resistance eats up some of the torque required to reach proper bolt stretch. Since we do not all measure bolts before and after to ensure proper stretch, getting the threads as free running as possible is important. Specified torques in books do not take into consideration galled threads, dirty threads, rusted fasteners, etc. So clean those threads, run thread correctors, and use antiseize liberally to get those running torqued down to as close to zero as you can.

Oh wow, I will miss him! Peace be with you brother...and your family

Oh man, I am just here for the responses...:paranoid: But I will say this. Cleanliness goes a LOOONG way.

That is one serious good looking Z buddy! Those wheels make it!

This is what I was going to do with mine. I like the 280Z fitment on this. But the electric fans are useful. I have never had any issues overheating of my car. I have never really seen the need for electric fans if your radiator and and OEM thermal clutch fan are working...

I paid 275 dollars jsut to ship an engine from dock to dock. Shipping from door to door gets far more expensive. I have no way to get the long block to a shipping center at this moment. So it will have to be door to door shipping would could cost as much as 450 dollar in itself. You are talking about a 300+ lb chunk of metal. Shipping an engine is not an inexpensive affair. So try to find one locally. My 71 engine will eventually go to somebody as well, but shipping is going to be a nightmare.

I have a complete perfect long block from my original 71 Z with 71000 original miles on it. It is sitting in my storage unit right now. But I have no idea how I would get it to you. Shipping would cost a fortune.

congrats!!! Great work

Um, that would be you. After you buy and watch the DVD sold by Welcome to ZTherapy.com seriously, they are not complicated at all, and knowing how to tune them and rebuild them is something every Z owner should know. I highly recommed their parts and service.

Oh my this is awesome! Alas, I will be waste deep with diapers and bottles, and will probably have to pass

I do not consider wheels when I say all original one owner car... but this is going to be curious... http://bringatrailer.com/2013/01/29/california-1972-datsun-240z/ It ticks all the right bells. One owner Original all receipts and records Unmolested Decent condition I wonder how high the bidding is going to get.

This scares me DEEPLY

Passenger side: Product SKU: 44100-R1000 Driver side: Product SKU: 44101-L1000 These are listed for 1970 to 06/1972 240Z

exactly before bashing the part, realize the first one lasted 42 years.... (as on my car) That is just incredible.

Dan I am way late to this discussion, but let me say do not get mired down in the details, your car is stunning! I know you are proud to have it, and you should be. Car shows are an anamoly to me. I have been disappointed many times at how the judging gets done. But my disappointment came from the fact that I had not taken the time to do more. I have learned that car shows are primarily about cleanliness. And in my county, it is pretty much the only thing that matters. My z would not score half of what your car did. I think you should keep posting pics of your car, as your engine is an inspiration to so many of us. Congrats and I am proud to be on the same car forum as you

My N42/N42 L28 is running about 10.3:1 according to my builder and I run 93 octane gas with 14 DEG BTDC @900 rpm and 32 DEG BTDC @ 3100 rpm. No pinging at all at this point. I am going to try 17 deg BTDC. You should be fine. There are many pumps you can use to run your SK's. Find out what kind of pressure they need though. You will most likely need a regulator, but some pumps are self regulated. I went through 3 pumps before I found a combination of pressure and noise I liked. Did the engine builder put the eccentric ring on the front of your cam? If so then you can probably get away with starting your car on a mechanical pump. I would also suggest you get a WIDE band O2 sensor to help you in tuning those carbs. Or esle you will be just relying on plugs to give you a good reading, and that can be misleading depending on your technique. good luck and keep up the great updates.

My N42/N42 L28 is running about 10.3:1 according to my builder and I run 93 octane gas with 14 DEG BTDC @900 rpm and 32 DEG BTDC @ 3100 rpm. No pinging at all at this point. I am going to try 17 deg BTDC. You should be fine. There are many pumps you can use to run your SK's. Find out what kind of pressure they need though. You will most likely need a regulator, but some pumps are self regulated. I went through 3 pumps before I found a combination of pressure and noise I liked. Did the engine builder put the eccentric ring on the front of your cam? If so then you can probably get away with starting your car on a mechanical pump. I would also suggest you get a WIDE band O2 sensor to help you in tuning those carbs. Or esle you will be just relying on plugs to give you a good reading, and that can be misleading depending on your technique. good luck and keep up the great updates.

The header is nice to have, but if your stock manifold is in good shape, get it cleaned up and reuse it. It will function just fine with your stock engine and SU's. You will not notice any huge HP increase with Headers. Again, save your money for something else. Like suspension or brakes.

Well as it turns out my cars pulling to the left really hard was probably not due to my front brakes at all. It seems my passenger wheel cylinder is almost completely seized. I had replaced the drivers side back in 2011. But at the time the passenger side was responding well. Well no longer. Just a note though. I called Courtesy Nissan and they said they had over 40 wheel cyilinders in stock for 240Z's. so if you wanted an OEM part, they have them.

I would agree with Blue here. The triple weber conversion may seem intimidating, but it is a great project to tackle that will yeild good results. The forums here have many a great educational links for the Weber conversion, and they are getting better every day. I would also strongly suggest getting some round tops from Ztherapy and just leaving everything else stock. Functional round top SU's are WONDERFUL carbs.

Awesome, nothing like that feeling huh? I wish you luck with your ignition issue. If you should need any brand new fancy spark plug wires, I have 4 or 5 sets laying around!

When i tried that Airtex pump, I was only able to get about 2.25 psi out of it. What kind of pressure are you getting at the carbs?

That houston Z event is going to be a great one! I wish I could come, but my wife is in mandatory bed rest and is 2 cm dilated and we are expecting my 2nd baby boy any day now. I cannot travel far from the house, but believe me when I say my Z is shaking with anxiousness wanting to go blast around corpus. The weather is going to be STUNNINGLY good. I am not even sure when I will get a chance to install these beauties. But I better do it quickly as in before the little one comes.

If you are going to do any racing beyond a hobby, meaning something with a rule book, then keep the book with you, read it, read it again, memorize it, sleep with it, and then build the car to those specs. Autocross, and touring car racing have extremely focused groups. Build the car to fit one of those classes and stick to it. If you want to dabble in both with the same car, then you need to do twice as much reading. Build a car that can adheres to the strictest requirements and then you may be okay with other forms of racing, but at times, tires, sway bar sizes, roll cages, all can bump you into an entirely different class. Autoracing is usually not a one car fits all type of thing. I would suggest you narrow your focus to what you REALLY will actually be doing and then build accordingly. Right now It sounds like you are more of a hobbyist who wants to try a bit of everything for fun, which then build the safest car you can and have at it. But building a car without a clear focus on what it will be used for almost ensures you will build the wrong car and spend too much.