TomoHawk

Hey- could you put a spring on the bolts to act as a damper to the mount swinging? One twist around the bolt could be enough. thxZ

With a 125 LBs. holding capacity, it ought to hold a little camera. The big thing with that one is the 5-inch suction cups. I went to the store right after I posted that other message, but someone had bough every one in stock! thxZ

That is great, until I took mine out last week and discovered the plug was broken. Hint: check out your emergency stuff occasionally.

I drove the Ohio Tail of the Dragon tour with my club. 450 miles of tight, twisty roads, :laugh:

There was a similar question about Datsun's name change a couple weeks ago. The (woman) contestant didn't get the answer.

I have a can of air for an airbrush, but could it inflate a tire? It's only about 10 for a new can. You'd need an adapter for the top to connect to the tire's valve. thxZ

Would something like this work? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46134 It's a Dual Cup Suction Lifter and the flat handle looks liks a good surface to bolt your camera arm to. It supports up to 125 LBS. and it claims you can pull dents! It would mount at the top or the passenger side of the windscreen. Other ideas I've had for a camera/GPS/computer mount is a bracket that bolts to the frame behind the vent panel, which requires a modded vent panel. or a small bracket that attaches to the metal puck (which is permanently glued) on the windsreen like the rearview mirror, but elsewhere on the windscreen. thxZ

I tred a second polishing and it seems to be better than before. I used the same mthod as last time, but did the polishing even more carefully to overlap the lines well, go to the edges, and keep going until all the polish was gone. Then a rub with the microfibre and some glass cleaner. It even started raining after I finished, so I drove around a little. After the windscreen was pretty much wet with droplets, I tried the wipers, and it was a night-and-day difference from before. With only 1 pass of the wipers, the glass was clean and even looked squeaky-dry. The fine scratches from the wipers were not noticeable. Even the little pits seem less noticeable. I will only need to leave the car out overnight to get some dew, and then see if I can clear the glass and drive into the low sun without being blinded by glare. There are definitely no water spots on the glass. thxZ

Well, So far I tried the No.7 polishing liquid (Meguiars) and it helped to get the glass more transparent with less glare at night. first I cleaned the Rain-X off with some strong solvent, then alcohol, then glass cleaner. I used a 4-inch polishing wheel on a drill motor to polish, holding the drill nearly vertical to the glass and pishing with a little pressure until the polish was gone and the glass came out clear. Then I removed the residue with glass cleaner. But when I went out in the morning, there was much dew on the windscreen, and after trying to dry it with a chamois, I was almost blinded by the glare when I drove into the morning sun. I literally had my head out the window and drove slowly to the barn so I could pack the car for a short trip. After the window was completely dry from dew, it was much better, but the 10^8 tiny pits or marks still remain. That vintage glass doesn't seem to be holding up on the streets & highways. It would be a great deal if there was a coating you could put on the glass to fill the tiny pits and restore the transparency in the low-sun times of day, namely sunrise and sunset. At about $1000 for a new windscreen, I'd still try a little more polishing, or even a homebrew coating. I'm considering coating the glass with an extra-hard polyurethane floor coating. thxZ

There is a place called Rod's Datsun parts (http://www.rodsdatsun.com) in San Jose. He would probably have what you need. Get some Datsun T-shirts too. thxZ

It was the ignition wires. I tried the handheld CB in the new car and it was quiet except for some static like noise, and it picked up noise from the seatbelt buzzer, fuel pump and even the power window motors! I think that was because of the cheap radio. Then I swapped the Bosch wires on the Z, and tried the CB in there. It was just as quiet, but you could hear the Z's seatbelt buzzer again. Reception seems to be improved too, as I tested that by driving a 1mile loop while talking to a friend. I will look into a better type of handheld for the future. I might still put the noise supresor on the one 12V juck to have a very quiet power source for digital stuff like a laptop. rhxZ for the discussion.

I need some Datsun decals/magnets for autocrossing. My 4 x 2 foot banner wouldn't hold up for autocross.

That ought to look interesting in a Z...

It's just a simple SPDT switch that needs to be spliced into the steering column wiring. I'd like to put one on my car too, because I like to drive right-handed. It'd be great to signal lane changes without getting your other arm off the door. What happened with your factory wiring? IMO, it would be more difficult to rewire the car than to correct the factory wring and/or add an extra control switch. I once saw a flasher unit that played a song (Love Me Tender) because you can get rather oblivious to the clicking of the OE stuff. Please keep us informed if your progress. thxZ

I think I'll put the Bosch wires back on. I don't remember having cb noise before.

It's the Beck-Arnley Brand from Autozone, I think. There isn't any noise on the stereo, but that could be another thing. I'll go to NAPA and get some regular stuff. Or is BD an appropriate source for ignition wires? thxZ A document from Beck-Arnly I just found on my wires: http://www.beckarnley.com/marketing/ignition%20wire%20sets.pdf

Oddly, my spark plugs are currently NGK BPR5ES and the wires are Beck-Arnley Mag cores... So, after putting on some noise caps on the alternator and coil, I still have the radio noise on my CB.

If you lay down in the back, you can remove the vinyl finisher panel on the hatch and reach inside to unlock the hatch. My pushbutton didn't work eother, so I substituted one from an MGB.

I'm going to start with the basics; a new cap on the alternator, and a new one on the ignition coil. The alternator is a no-brainer with a generic cap, but the one on the coil is puzzling; it's axial with a wire out each end, so The guts are a mystery. I'm trying a generic condenser on the coil, directly connected, in the way the wiring diagram shows, and so far no problems, but I haven't check how quiet it is. I will look up the numbers on the spark plug & wires to see what's in those. thxZ

I have something called "Barkeepers Friend" (BKF) which is great on glassware, to take stains out and stains off of bartops, countertops, etc., but I haven't tried it on auto glass.

If the local glass shops can't do any polishing, I think I wil getthe Eastwood kit.

What is that?thxZ

I had a ham radio repair guy help me with this. First we tuned the antenna to the radio, then we checked the transmission quality with & without the engine on. The noise was definitely IF noise. I got a power line filter from a local audio store, but the guy (kid) first handed me a gadget that hooks up to the alternator. How likely is it for you to get noise from the (new) alternator? Could you hear that on the stereo, and what should it sound like? The alternator has the noise cap on it, but I think it's an old one. Can I just replace it with a generic one from the parts tore? Same deal with the cap on the ignition coil. Those two things could be the problem, and easiest to fix ( without digging into the dash wiring.) thxZ

That's not a burnout. It's smoke from spinning the tyre in a tight turn at autocross.

Here is an analogous document at zhome.com: http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html