TomoHawk

That is obvious, but such a document would not be an official one or sanctioned by anyone. It could only be a bunch of general rules or tips or ghuidelines, and one would need to verify everything and write in all the notes they can get. It would probably be a good place to start.

If a car was totally in primer, then it has no paint, and should therefore get no deduction on that item. I have seen a few cars that actually looked OK in grey or black primer. Julio- I always get beat out by the customs and over-restored cars at shows. Mine is stock and driven. People are always saying stuff like "that's a really cool car" but they won't actually cast a vote for it... When you get to hang out with Z car people you're more at home than when you get those kind of megabuck car owners. Maybe next time you could park next to some rat-rods? thxZ This is what I think of trailers:

Out of all this I see a very comprehensive book or document on preparing your S30 (for example) to be very-low-deduction car. There are books on doing show cars, but you'd think they are fairly general and aren't very specific to our needs, so you end up guessing at what the judges would look for (as usual.) thxZ

If the comment secion doesn't count, why are they still on the scoring pages? The comments are for just that purpose, but I've never gotten any, and comments are written after any deductions are made, so they don't affect the score. they are probably for a suggestion or two to help the owner do better the next time. gnose- There are some non-specific areas for "bulk" items. For example, on the engine sheet there are items like hoses, brake lines, paint finish and electrical. Those are all not very specific and broad-ranging items. The same thing occurs on the interior and exterior score sheets.

You can't be focused too much, or you'll miss out on the categories that are judged in bulk, like the interior, engine area and paint. It is good enough though, to be used as an initial checklist, and the items on the list are things that are most likely to be missed when preparing the car or things that normally wear.

The scoring system is the only big thing that has trouble. Some judges write 3, as in 3 points out of 10, which really means 7 points deduction. Some write -3... These are usually judges that aren't really experienced. Another thing is the DD class. I don't have the luggage straps in, so I get points off? The same with aftermarket stereo. Some inexperienced judges score DD class like it was the stock class. That shouldn't be so, but by the time you get your judging sheet back it's too late. It's not polite to tell a judge he's wrong, either. Shows should be pleasant places. Hopefuly more people will read the guide and then everyone will be consistant. Chris- I haven't noticed much of a difference so far, but I'll get to read it more thoroghly over the weekend (it's raining in Ohio.) thxZ

Ok... The camera mount works well ( it has 3-axes of adjustment), and the software works (on the laptop, on the battery.) I got a 12V power inverter to plug the power supply into to power the laptop, because a DC power adapter for a laptop is very expensive. The next thing to solve is where to put the inverter and how to hook it up to the car's power. I think I might run a wire dirrect to the auxiliary power jack in the center console, and no idea what to do with the inverter? thxZ

Is there a proper way to wrap the wiring on aZ, so it will stay on, look nice and not unravel after a year? It seems that no matter how your wrap it, it still looks kinda crude, but the platic split loom stuff seems out of place on a classic car. I have just been re-wrapping the unravelled stuff, and applying a little E-6000 (or sho-Goo) to keep the ends attached. thxZ

Maybe you need another one for the lady? I'm sure everyone would appreciate pictures, how-tos (your notes) and any other suff you learned while rebuilding. thxZ

I thought a Yankee was an early automatic screwdriver. recipe...

I finished the mount. I don't think there is anything I can do to it to make it better. Does anyone have a favorite App to record time-lapse videos in WMV format? AVI files are HUGE! I'm using Flix right now. HandyAVI is OK, but doesn't make a video as you go. WinTLV makes AVI videos. A 10 minute recording (1s interval) makes a 150 Mb video! thxZ Below: suction cup clamp open & closed

Can't see it very well. Got another photo?

I once found an internet place that made vinyl liners for those storage areas. I just use them for jumper cables, air pump, can of brake fluid, etc. so I don't need liners. Hinging the front of the deck was also nice so you can get into those storage areas.

My rear insulators must be used up. The back of my 280Z seems to be at least an inch low. I'll get some new ones over the winter, and probably a set of springs (and shocks for the backs.) thething is making creaking noises now when you accelerate! (when the back sinks down from the weight transfer.) Elliot- If you want to save a fair amount of money, get the entire bushing kit. It's not cheap, but you will save a great deal compared to buying them all individually. thxZ

IIRC, the retro stereos are basically a receiver and a CD controller. the CD layer goes under the seat or in the trunk, and all you see is the display. they now have a USB port on a 19 inch wire. http://www.retrosoundusa.com/products/category/id/1

Here is my version of the camera mount using the suction cup mentioned earlier. It can be attached to either the windscreen or the side window. I will probably replace the wood post with an adjustable square post, and maybe a few other small improvements.

Do you have a URL for Gold Book? thxZ

I can confirm the bad installs those "professional" installers do. I took my car to one, becauuse they had a sale on JVC car stereos, and I even gave them a copy of the wiring diagram for the 280Z radio harness, and I found it crumpled on the floor later. The idiot actally wired the radio into the HEATER and the HAZARD switch wiring! I didn't findout until that winter when I took the radio out for torage. He didn't even use crimped connectors as I ordered; he used those cheap plastic snap-things. I tore the whole thing out myself later that winter and wired the radio correctly into the radio harness, soldered the places where the plastic taps cut the wire and covered the joints with shrink-tube. Those (discount) professionals don't care about your classic car with the traditional wiring. They just want to get your car out the door so they can do the new car with the easy wiring job that's already done- they just plug the radio into the car and collect payment. I wonder if they actually know anything about car electrics, besides what the installation paper says. thxZ

That's only if you get the hose already clamped/crimped onto the injector. Mine didn't have the hose or the fitting on the injectors when I got them.

No clamp!??

I don't have a rollbar or anything else in my car, so my camera goes on the windscreen.

My hoses began splitting just after the PO left with his trailer after delivery. I used a knife when I did my hoses, and removed the entire fuel rail with no problem. I first cut at the top of the injectors to get the whole thing off, the cut away what was left. I did all the hoses at once. Remember to use only 8mm fuel injection hose, and fuel injection clamps. thxZ

What are you using for your recording? I have a creative labs laptop webcam (1.3MP, 800x600video @15fps). I wanted to use a laptop computer on the passenger seat (while touring, not [competition]) I'd rest the laptop in a cutout in a thick foam sheet. We haven't figured out how to use a pocket PC with a UB webcam yet. the goal is to make a time-lapse video, with a picture about every 0.1 or 0.3 second, but normal video is also available. I'd probably need a USB extension cable. I wonder if I should've gotten the auto-focus camera instead (we will see.) With the CB radio in the ashtray (the GPS stays in the storage box for (emergencies), the driver's area feels fairly busy! :laugh: Fortunately, I don't drink coffee while driving the twisties. thxZ

Good advice. My initial goal for the camera is for recording things while touring. If the mount works out, I'll beef it up to competition standards.

I bought one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40993 It can hold 15 LBs. It's not as substanstial as the double cupped handle thing, but I think I can screw a bracket to the arm on this one with some tiny screws. thxZ