TomoHawk

No, not the daytime running lights, auxiliary driving lights. I have noticed the DRLs, especially on trucks. The DRLs are usually part of the headlamp unit, and aren't standard on all new cars. The auxiliary lights are elsewhere, like the lower corners.

Passing lamps? Another reason why I'm interested is because I see a LOT of sporty cars, SUVs/trucks and 'performance' cars with the lamps (UNDER the front bumper) on, sans headlights. Then there are the 4x4s with the light bar of the roof... I'll put my tape-measure in the car and measure a few SUVs, which typically have them in the lower corners of the front, below the bumper. I'm not so sure they are between 16 - 24 inches off the ground, but I'm not in CA either. I would think that other states would be similar. I don't really see how having driving lights (ie., ones with clear lenses) below the bumper would help in illuminating the road beyond about 100 feet, anyway. you'd need them above the bumper on an S30. Responsible drivers have the lights hooked up to the high-beams. I will see if there is anything in my state. thxZ

Concerning the use of driving lights... Do most states allow you to use them alone, or do they need to be hooked into the high-beams? Or are there some other stipulations that go along with the type and/or wattage of the lights? thxZ

Drawings/notes should dfinitely help. Then take the drawings and compare to a wiring diagram for your specific model. The drawings will educate you about your car and general car electricals too.

I saw four S30s, and one was in the parking lot where I left it. They put them in Group 8. Today was the first day of qualifying and a workday, so I had the whole place to myself at first, until a few more people finally got there, around lunchtime. Saturday & Sunday are the big days, with Sunday being race-day, but I have other plans. Maybe next year I'll take the tent.

Please make sure that people know it's your personal website, and not a Texas Z web site.

I assume they used ordinary store-bought acetone?

The link I put up appears to be someone's personal web site, not that of a car club.

I built my buzzer-tester from cheap stuff from an electronics store (Radio Shack) and the junk box, and just mounted it to a tongue depressor with GOOP. It is handy for testing things which require one to turn on something that's too far away ( like a light switch, horns or relays) or in a blind area. Don't forget to insulate the probe, except for the tip. You might even add a flat connector or flatten the tip to fit something like the ignition switch connector on a 280.

At the odds & ends type stores, you might be able to get a test probe with the light already in it. Auto parts stores usually have stuff like that too. I even made a buzzer probe with a wire & clip on the one end and a metal probe of the other.

Are you sure that ZX ignition switch will work on your 1978? If you're new to schematics, how did you know it would work? The switch could bethe problem if you connected things that shouldn't be connected. Both wiring diagrams would be needed or a word from someone who knows the electrics for both cars.

Fusible links come in pre-made lengths and colors as required to fit your model & year car. eBay has them all the time, as do BlackDragon Auto and Mortorsport Auto (MSA). You should have the colors required and where they go listed in your owner's manual or other reference manuals/books. The fusible links are part of the car's electrical harness. There is no harness you can buy separately, but there are upgrade kits available through the aftermarket companies like BlackDragon & Motorsport Auto.You must splice it into your car's wiring.

There's nothing wrong with asking for help, even though most people here do the repairs themselves after getting advice online. I think there are a number of people in your area. Make some friends and maybe you'll get a visit from one... It might help if you post some details about your Z and your problems.

Did they give the scenerio for the bolts? The only thin I can think of is to make an iron block with so many threaded holes in a line, screw the bolts in and put the whole thing in a salt-spray tester for a while. That should get the whole thing evenly rusted. thxZ

As per Murphy's Law, you immediately ( or 5 minutes later ) find an answer after you post a question! I think the information is interesting and will help others, anyway. thxZ

OK, Then I think Group 9 (Exhibition, Featured Marque, etc.) will be the Cooper Minis this year, and they will be doing 60-minute enduros. I will look up the Datsun classification, and see if I can be there for that group, in case there may be some Datsuns. It will be nice to see some cassic cars doing their thing, instead of tuners or F1 screamers. An old-school Formula 1 would be much apreciated! thxZ

I just found my own answer, so please See post #1, Chris. thxZ

I hear a lot about Group 1 or Group 8, etc., but I can't find any classification rules. Oops- It's not SCCA, It's VARA or VSCR. It's a vintage classification. Here is a link thxZ

There is also a Sharpie in WHITE that could be used in a similar way in other places

I have my lid back on as of today. I cut off the broken bosses down to the solid part of the base or completely down to the plastic lid, then used 1/2 inch dowel to create new screw bosses, which were attached to the lid using GOOP. The dowels were drilled & tapped. Bryan Owens (LBO730) of Brookland Trim in Bristol, VA specializes in covering things Z, and did a very nice job covering the lid with a nice vinyl that looks and feels like real leather. thxZ The first picture of of one of the new bosses, which has a notched bottom. The second picture is the lid with more bosses in place.

When you used the silver Sharpie, id it look smooth like paint, or did you see anything that looked like brush marks? thxZ

My downshift solenoid must be faulty. It's probaly the only thing the trans guy didn't replace when the transmission was rebuilt. I will see if I can activate it with a direct shunt from a battery; like a 14V NiCad pack. It will tell you if it does work or not. Otherwise, the only times the Z transmission will kickdown is when you are going somewhat slowly up a slight hill or incline and give it WOT, so you have lots of vacuum. There's no kickdown cruising down a level roadway. There's no clicking of the solenoid at all. There's rain today, so it's a good time to poke around. Perhaps there's a book on the Jatco 3N71B besides the FSM? Some information regarding the vacuum kickdown might be useful. thxZ

Would you mind posting a link to the Texasz website or the relevant web page? thxZ

Can you get a paint pen in silver? thxZ

This is what started things off with the guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=369h-SEBXd8&feature=related