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73_240z

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  1. "DGV's and 4 barrel setups are best used by people who don't understand SU's and won't take the time to learn." Wow, I understand this is a pro-SU site but this is bit of an exaggeration. I spent a LOT of time and money trying to diagnose my SU's before switching to a 4-barrel carb. I got the video, rebuilt them but in the end I was looking at just ordering a new set. I went with the 4-barrel for an electric choke and a brand new carb that was easier to tune and cheaper. My z runs great , thank you very much.
  2. I am not sure if this has been posted yet, but it's pretty cool. Its from wired's autopia blog. http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/05/nissan-bre-370z/ also more pic's http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/04/the-bre-240z-in-all-its-glory/
  3. Cool idea, Top gear is one of my favorite shows! Did you email the American or British series? the reason I ask is the history channel is currently filming the American version, should air in December-ish. I remember they did have a brief segment a couple of seasons ago where they had classic z's in their studio. They also did a bit about how old cars were faster than new cars. Two of the cars they raced were a 90-96? 300zx TT vs. vs a 350z.
  4. I know I am going to catch a bit of heat for this.... My 73 was having some of the same symptoms. I would have it running good for a bit then I wouldn't run worth a darn. I replaced the plugs every fuel filter, took the carbs apart and cleaned them. I could not afford a set of rebuilt SU's so I bought an Arizona z-carb manifold and a brand new edelbrock 1403 with elec. choke. problem solved. the car runs amazing.
  5. I was wondering if anyone has a technique for removing water stains from a rear hatch window. I bought a rear hatch that was in very good shape, unfortunately it was stored outside for a while. It has these dried water stains on the glass and I have tried scrubbing Windex but it doesn't do any good. Thanks for your help.
  6. I have a 73 240z with original motor and 4-speed transmission. I replaced the clutch with a kit from the LPS. When I took the transmission out of the car I did not replace the throw out bearing (yes, a bad decision). When I put it back together I had a bad noise/vibration happen every time I pushed in the clutch pedal. So I logged into the forums and after a comprehensive search, concluded that it’s the throw out bearing. I take the transmission out and replace it with the one in the kit. My problem is that is still making the noise. I decided to leave it in and it really only makes the noise when it’s cold. Could the clutch/pressure plate be made for a different sized throw out bearing sleeve? I also drained the transmission and refilled it with two quarts. I believe this is the correct amount. Any help/suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  7. I just wanted to add that I had this same problem and thanks to Steve’s post I got the sprocket back on correctly.
  8. So I did some additional tweaking this weekend and it’s running really good now. I figured I would share incase someone else has a similar problem. Re-watched the Z-Therapy video and caught a bit that I had missed before. I have always had a lot of trouble getting the carbs to run right, really hard cold starts. Above the throttle linkage there is (what Z-Therapy calls) a maintenance adjustment screw for the throttle position. I backed this all the way out (like the video says) and was able to finally adjust the carbs correctly. The PO had used it like an idle screw so the actual idle screw on the carbs was always off.
  9. IT RUNS! Ok here is what I did. After cleaning the carb and it still not starting, I found out after an extensive search on the forums that I have a secondary fuel pump at the tank. Apparently it’s a dealer-installed item to prevent vapor lock. I bought a metal fuel filter and by-passed the pump entirely. I then disconnected each fuel line and took my air compressor and blew air through each line to ensure it was clean. I also drained the carburetor bowl and blew air through it. I believe I had a blockage in the line between the tank and the pump. Thanks everyone for your help.
  10. Here is an update. The plugs had a lot of carbon on them so I replaced them and checked for spark, they were good. bty the gap was .35 . I put the new onesi in and didn’t make any difference. So… by process of elimination I am going to tear the carbs apart and clean them. I got the DVD from Z-therapy so I have good instructions now.
  11. Ok, here is what I have so far. I disconnected the fuel line at the pump and carbs and blew air from my compressor thru them. I also bi-passed the tank, disconnected the fuel line and ran the fuel line from a quart jar. No difference, it ran for a bit off the starting fluid and died. Also interesting there was less gas in the quart jar so I believe that it’s getting into the engine. Had my son pull the choke leaver, it appears to function correctly. Because it starts with the starting fluid I assume the plugs are good, but I will still check them. I am also thinking about the coil not providing enough spark or perhaps the timing?
  12. That’s as good as place as any to start. I can hook up a bi-pass at the fuel pump.
  13. My 73 240z (with round top carbs) started and ran fine about 3 months ago. I went to move it out of the garage and it ran real rough. I got it back in the garage and now I can get it started with starting fluid, but I dies as soon as that’s exhausted. After that I can get it to almost start. I read thru some of the posts and it seems the problem might be fuel related so I took the top of the floats, there was gas in the bowl, cleaned the little filter and reassembled. I also bought a new inline fuel filter and added oil to the plunger in the carb. I am next going to try blowing air through the fuel lines. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  14. Just a suggestion, you might try posting prices. I never respond to anything that doesn’t have a price because I assume it’s too expensive.
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