TomoHawk

Oh- make sure you get real silver solder, not the silver-bearing solder that the DIY store has. It's much stronger.

I think Inf is correct. You may need to upgrade or install some of the IE add-ons like the FlashPlayer to get everything to work off the CD. Otherwise, you can copy all the pdf files (Mine had S30_1a.pdf through S30_8b.pdf and one named INDEX.TXT) to your hard drive for faster access. The Index file tells you which pdf file covers what.

So you guys are implying that my functional clock is broken because it only clicks every 15 seconds? The same with the clock in my mom's new Lincoln? my alarm clock I've used for the last 20 years only clicks every five (5) seconds, and it's got a quartz thing.

Silver solder should work for your needs. I have made model ship propellers with it, so it should be able to stick some tubes together. Clean well, and use flux. You can use a big soldering iron, or flame.

Here is one powered by a AA battery cell. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=278694&highlight=AA+clock#post278694 See also: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29123

That one might work!

For a plastic box conduit, you'd probably have to either build it yourself (from DIY store plastic parts?) or borrow one from another car... I once made something similar using carbon tube that was heated & pressed to form an oval shape. How about an aluminum tube ( polished, of course?) When I see polished copper in a car, it makes me think of those old Builcks & Oldsmobiles with the wooden-spoke wheels... As for the connector, that's something you'd need when you plan on disconnecting things periodically. I don't think you'll be pulling the engine on the weekends, so leaving the wiring as-is sounds best to me, IMO. As long as it's just the right lengths, routed in nice straight lines (spectators like straight lines on the engine) and wrapped well. thxZ

That applies to clocks with a second hand. Ordinary car clocks tick less often like 6, 12, 15, or 60 seconds.

IMO, it just wouldn't look right. Properly wrapped and routed, the few wires that are there shouldn't be unsightly. The vacuum hoses and fuel tubes are more significant than the injector and sensor wires.

Remember it only makes a tick every once in a while (15) seconds?) I don't listen to mine much, but it does tick.

Why not a plastic box tube like newer cars use? I'm not too keen on Molex connectors, because they get loose after you plug & unplug a few times (like r/c car batteries) so I would go wit the blade connectors, like you've on the taillights.

Yeah, I remember, thanks. Anywhere else you go, DD includes the engine, but they only care about how it looks.

In the Judging Requiements section of the rules(pg. 10), it looks like the ZCCA requires that your car have emmissions equipment on it: It seems unclear (except to the writer, of course.) What does "stock classes" mean? Does that include the Daily Driver class, or just the stock class for each generation? The 10-point deduction is odd; usually you get no deduction when an item is completely removed, like the a/c. thxZ

I'm with abruzzi, I like the original design, and if anything extra goes on it, it'll be period-correct, except for the digial CD stereo, GPS, and the laptop/power inverter . Some of the modern conveniences can go well with the classic cars... Under the hood, you'll see vintage Datsun, except for the parts that you can't get any more, so those get replaced with something a little newer than OE. Oh- just a little extra paint here or there under the hood, and a little polishing (which helps keep the dirt off.) When I'm not busy cleaning & repairing, I drive the car- autocross, track, twisty rural roads. And the local cruise-ins to remind people what real cars were like. thxZ

There are a lot of notable cars out there. Start with the first car ever made. There are others like Studebaker, Frazier, and Delorean. The "new" stuff comes from the technology, not the concept. Like the first electric cars, which were built almost 100 years ago, and "plastic' body panels have been around for decades. There are many more to add to the "Top 1000" significant cars ever made, though they won't make it to GRM's list probably. thxZ

That's definitely not the same guy ( a Z car "restoration specialist") in Tampa from whom I got my car.

You can route the wires in a way so it looks more pleasing, but it will probably never look as nice as the modern cars (that have the wire supportss and wire enclosures) which is what people go for at the local carshows. It has to be polished, chromed or routed in very straight lines to get your vote. The same for all the vacuum hoses. I think it is possible to do a primo job on the fuel piping tho, but finding somebody with the right touch to bending tube is tough. I don't remember who's engine is below, but it has nice piping.

My car has a Pallnet fuel injection rail and no emmissions stuff. I also replaced all the injector connectors to make things look nice. MeZZZ- I couldn't view your picture since I'm not a member of Facebook. Can you post one here? thxZ

They forgot the Ford Escort, the most prolific car in history.

Do you think the rats died from eating the book?

I got the starter off the 280Z, and I would like to paint both the starter motor and the solenoid. I think I will just clean the paint off the aluminum nose/front cover, then use the electric wire brush to clean off the solenoid, paint that, then just a little steel wool & paint on the starter motor. The Haynes book says you just remove the two screws holding the solenoid to the aluminum front cover, and it comes off. Is there any trick to it? Anything else I'd need to know before I start? thxZ

How did you get the overspray off? thxZ

It could be that. I recently bought a new- unused CB radio from eBay that had all the power wires cut off...

Is a Porche 280Z anything like a Datsun Z28?

What all needs to be done with your car? Is there any rust to treat or dents to fill? IMO, body fillers like Bondo should only be used to fill the smallest or shallowest of scratches, gouges or dents, used very lightly for contouring the metal (to match other panel shapes or near welds), and any dents should be removed with hand-work first as much as possible. thxZ