TomoHawk

I found this switch on eBay for $27. It's similar to the Zed headlamp switch, with OFF, Park, and ON, but it's a rocker style. It didn't say the current rating for ON (headlamps) but most of them are at least 10A. ?The spade terminals should make it easy to hook up, but you'd need a hole or a bracket somewhere. Headlamp Switch 3 Position 5 Pin Headlight Rocker Switch Replacement for

Take a look at oMGsor other European sportscars.

Parts stores only have silicone beam blades.

OK... but 22 inches long?

The guy at the AP store (Federated) insists that the 170 in 44-170 means 17 inches, not 170mm, and not 44 cm.

I found a set: Trico 44-170! I bought them at a local Federated Auto Parts store- $10 but how do you get the last 1cm in, and hook the clip into the frame- very carefully? 😉 These inserts have a plastic backing with grooves to fit into the claws on the frame, but the end without the clip is slightly short of the end of the rubber (to compensate for the clip, IMO.) Since these are the most recent made (1993), i will presume the plastic backing won't crumble after 1 summer. In the meantime, there are a couple sets on order from various places mentioned here (you can't have enough spares)

will a blade that is 1cm or 0.4 inches shorter fit the 17 inch frame safely?

Thanks for the tip. Now I just have to find some wiper catalogs, to cross-reference them and cars. We used to just grab a TRW book to look up stuff, like steering parts. Trico and ANCO references are NLA. I may need to take a tape measure or a wiper blade to a salvage yard or car show? I do knowthe blade insert has a 5/16 width and is 18 inches long.

Anything regarding Trico or Anco is gone now.

if it works, it's not bad. I pay $30-40 for beam blades every year or two after they get chewed up by winter ice. There has to be a company making them- they were popular in the 1970s-80s on muscle cars and trucks, like the Camaros, firebirds, and the F-150.

Is it possible to get a modern bayonet mount adapter? That would at least give you possible wiper blades so you can drive in the rain while you find OE style replacement blades. It looks like British cars use the same blade mount as the 240Z.

I got my 240Z wiper arms from ZKarz. It has a small clip on the ends that you squeeze to release the ends. One side is mostly flat, (first image) and the other side has a little raised thing that acts like a retaining pin (second) You want the 'pin' to go into the first hole in the metal strip and the barbs grab onto the end of the g=frame. You might have to pull the runner off the end to expose the hole. Then you can easily slide the whole thing out of the frame, then slide the new one in. DON'T LOSE THE CLIP! I remember the replacements in the 1970s & 1980s had the clip built into the end, so the 240Z blades are special, and so is the cost.

NAPA had some "break-away" blades, but the metal spine to fit the wiper arm was not there. I figured out the easy way to remove the old rubbers without bending or "hard effort." It really very easy. Finding new ones isn't. I plan to make some measurements of the metal spine to see if other cars had something compatible.

Just remember. Forget a out ANCO or Trico. They are gone.

I remember changing the rubber when I first started driving in those 1970s cars (Pinto, AMC Spirit/Eagle, and my dad's work pickup.)

Does 44-180 refere to anythoing, like 180mm length? 180mm is only 7 inches? The 280Z has a blade of 17 inches

Higuys, I'm in need of the wiper blade refills too. If & when I find some (Trico/ANCO brand is NLA) how do you get the blade off the arm? I bought some refills, but they are "in a bin somewhere." There is a tab/lever/button on the underside (opposite the little hole)and are you supposed to squeeze that or lift it to disengage the blade? I figured you would squeeze it, and the hooks disengage, and you slide the blade off the arm then wrestle the rubber out.

I will justy disconnect the horns, so I can drive a bit. The horn fuse is also for the brake lamps, so It has to stay in, and I will just pull the wires off the horns.

Some of those relays near the fuse panel are easier to access with the glovebox out.

Higuys, The horn suddenly went off at 6AM as if the relay welded itself, on a Sunday, so it's not moisture-related. I drove it the night before and it was warm (90) and dry. Can you access the horn relay on a 1978 280Z without taking the glovebox out? Is it under the hood on the relay bracket? The FSM diagram isn't clear about it, but to say it looks like it's near the wiper relay, which means you gotta take the glovebox out. I have a relay on order, so I just want to drive it s few times until I take it to the shop on July 14th.If I can get to it, I can swap it myself. ThxZ

I requested information for an entire hose kit, so I don't have to butcher pieces to fit.

Higuys, Is there an approved kit or a good source for silicone hoses the intake air (air filter and AFM only? The hoses for the vacuum and such on my engine are fine, but the hoses for the AFM and air filter are starting to show signs of small cracks or drying, so I'd like to start getting them now. I'll save the extra hoses for later or sell them as I go, but keeping the engine going is most important. I'd like muted colors, like grey or black, to keep the vintage look, so I don't are for red, blue, yellow, etc. And I'd like the complete kit, inatead of buying individual hoses, which wouldtake all summer to finish. ThxZ

Well, if you take the dizzy end of the HT lead off, you get to see a lot more sparking, so the module seems to be working. Now I need to see if the injectors are clicking. Is there a way to see if they get a signal, like plugging in an LED? When it's cranking, you won't hear the injectors.

So you absolutely can't use the stock coil? I had the flamethrower coil on it for a while, until a few weeks ago, when it just stopped working for some reason- air gap was off maybe, I don't think I want to bother with a bulky GM coil, since I have the stock bracket already in there.