AZ-240z

Randy, Are these the seals that that mount between the lower, aft edge of the door window frame and door body metal, or are these the small L shaped seals that mount to the upper, forward edge of the quarter window frame? Dan

Why not go to a good auto paint supplier and get some of that clear adhesive backed laminate used by many new car manufacturers made for the purpose of a rock guard. It is probably made in different mil weights depending on application. I wish I could be more specific as to suppliers or part numbers, but that would be my first choice over the mud guards.

Arne, the info given above from your experience with the Mulhollands is just what I was looking for. My car presently has stock springs which were cut, and not sure what struts were installed during the restoration. The ride is pretty stiff and I would like to have a bit softer, more stock ride. My car is not a daily driver, more of a show car, so the return to stock characteristics is my prime consideration. I do drive it occasionally just to keep things lubed and free, but a less than very firm ride would put less wear and tear on everything. I know that my objectives go against the grain of what most people on this site are trying to accomplish as far as shear driving enjoyment, but I did enjoy driving this car for 35 years, and now putting it back to showroom stock is what turns me on. Roads and highways here in Phoenix are generally pretty good so not really an issue. I just want a ride for the limited driving I do which is close to stock for less stress on all the components. The car had Konis which were hydraulic, not gas, for many, many years and the ride was great, just a little firmer than stock. Wish I could find a set of those today. The KYB-GR2 struts would increase the ride height over stock too much or I would put those on. Not too many other options for what I am seeking to do, unless you have some suggestions for another strut option. Thanks, Arne, for the good info. I will more than likely put the Mulhollands on unless I happen to find a set of NOS stock struts squirreled away in some dusty dealer store room. Any suggestions, given what I am looking for, are always welcome and appreciated from all who are following this discussion. Dan

Hi Arne, I did pick up a set of those Mulholland struts for my car that I planned to match up with the repro stock U.S. springs. I wanted to ask you how you found the ride and car stance (height) as compared to stock. I am hoping for a ride and stance close to stock, but a ride a little firmer would be OK. Thanks, Arne. Dan Original Owner, hls30-20419

Just wanted to bump this up to the top and let everyone know who had been interested that these decals are available for $12 each. after more than a year and about six revisions, I can honestly say that these are as close to a perfect reproduction as is possible. For all who have received your decals and posted comments in previous posts, thanks and I really appreciate the kind words. For those who would like to put a nice finishing touch to that renewed master vac, just PM me with your request. Dan

I've got a 1970 240z and that looks like the connector to the windshield wiper motor harness which passes through the firewall directly above the upper heater hose.

If you look closely at the picture of the air pump in his auction, you will see one of the A/C lines and the bolts of a York compressor housing below the air pump. The York was one of the dealer add-on units. For me, too many other things on this car are from later models to qualify for somewhat of a survivor car. Just my opinion. Dan

Hmmmmm....,,,,,Lots of Series 2 items on the interior. Steering wheel, choke plate, fuse box cover, dash, seats with flip recline lever, rear deck carpet has split for tool box locations in deck rather than behind seats, hub caps. It appears that the interior has been gone through extensively for whatever reason. The seller mentioned floor repairs also, so I would want to get up and personal with a closer inspection of this car. He may have tried to make one good car from the parts of two, but that is just my paranoia showing through.

Bryan, I'm guessing that in the pictures of the grommets, the grommet on the left is the original, and the grommet on the right is the replacement you found. Yes? Dan

Sorry to disagree, but there is a copper crush washer that should be changed with your oil change. These are still available at Nissan Parts.

Ron, Victor, Thanks for the feedback on my master vac decals. I thought that they turned out quite well, and really appreciate your appraisal as to its quality and accuracy. I am currently having more made up for anyone else who had expressed an interest in buying one or more. Please PM me to place an order. I have set the price at $12 each. Having worked on these for about a year, the costs involved were more than anticipated. As I had mentioned earlier, this was not meant to be a money making project for me, but a means to make a decal for my own car and try to recover the costs of production. These are not photocopy replicas, but entailed hours of artwork to replicate all details as accurately as possible. If, after purchasing one of these decal, you are not totally satisfied, I would certainly offer to take it back. I think our cars are far too important to each of us not to be satisfied with what we put on them. If you have looked at pictures of my car in my gallery, you will realize that I am very particular. Dan

John, I'm trying to follow your logic. Is that left unsaid above the fact that the Z will never attain the value of the Austin Healey MK IV 3000 because the number of 1+ 240Zs will always be much greater than that of the Healey? Or, does the Datsun loose appeal due to being modified, crushed, crashed, or rusted out in far greater numbers than the Healey? Or, is the value and collectability based on it European origins? I am not disagreeing with your conclusion on relative values, (my brother had a Healey 100 which was incredibly fun), but I guess that I missed the premise on which you have based your value comparison. I am really enjoying this discussion. Dan

Spanky's Auto Body (480) 644-0060 Gary has been working on Zs forever and knows his stuff.

Bob, I've had to do this a couple of times, and have found the easiest way was to remove the whole blower assembly. This assembly bolts to the firewall in three or four places, and once these machine screws are removed the whole blower fan and housing just drops out. Be carefull not to bend the cables that control the freshair vent located on the right side of the housing, or simply disconnect it from the vent actuator. You then can remove the glove box out the back side and have ample room to do the heater core. Really not difficult but takes a little time, time well spent. This explanation is kind of quick and dirty, but once you get into it, it is fairly easy to see what needs to be done. Dan

Hi Ron, My purpose in doing these decals was to provide my car with one, and, help finance this project by providing them to all interested. You can certainly have one. I am just trying to get some feedback of the number interested so as to fairly price them. I am thinking in the $12 to $15 price range depending on the number of people interested. Does this sound reasonable? Tell me what you think.

I know that it took more time than planned to get the result that I wanted with these decals, but I thought I would bump this back to the top since there was considerable interest in these at the onset of this project. Dan

Hello geezer, As far as I can tell by comparing these to the original, they are a perfect reproduction. The chrome is bright and the red is just a slight bit richer than the original as if the original red had slightly faded. I'll try to include pictures of the original below. Let me know what you think. Dan

Well, I can't believe that it has been almost a year to get these master vac decals done. The sign shop that did these worked on them between jobs and I can't count the number of revisions and refinements that were done. I believe that they are now quite good and have tried to include a picture, hopefully. The picture doesn't do it justice as I had to use a white backlight to make it ledgeable and reduce glare from the chrome material. Let me know what you think. Dan

Hi Carl, I noticed that, also. The master vac decals on early 240z cars had two spaces, which were Unit NO. & Ser NO. This one of Bob's had Unit NO. & Lot NO. along with some other differences. Possibly his NOS unit was meant for the domestic Japanese market, or the Euro market. Not to hijack this thread but I just completed reproducing this decal for the 240z. It came out perfect but I'll update later on the correct thread. Dan

I just KNEW it was the angle of the picture. Are you still my friend? When I get that master vac decal finished, you can get back at me. It should turn out quite good after many trips to the sign shop working on this, but the proof will rest with the opinions of all wanting one. I'll keep looking for a good grommet for your project, Marty. Great, Great Job. Dan

I've never tried this, but I think I would try from the outside of the tank. Obviously you don't want to weld pull rods to the tank, but maybe you could clean off some spots and epoxie some rods on several pull points. Use gently, continuous pulls so as not to pop off the glue points. This would, also avoid fulcrum or leaverage points needed to work out the dent from the inside and possible distorting the fuel sending unit hole. Just something to consider. Dan

Most excellent job, there, Marty. I'm looking at my NOS boot right now, and I can't see any real differences. The vinyl grain is a perfect match, and the stitching is exactly what my boot shows. If I were going to split hairs with you, and it is difficult to tell from the picture of the full boot, my boot, from the mid circumferal stitching to the top measures 2 1/8 inches, and 6 inches to the bottom of the boot. The top part of your boot appears to be a bit taller than the 2 1/8 inches, but this could just be the photo angle. Don't you just hate it when someone in the crowd does that. Seriously, that is a tremendous job. I'd certainly get one if I didn't have mine. Dan

BRE-240Z, I believe that Mike at Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, has the outer hatch weatherstrip for the early 240Z in reproduction form. It has the tubular cross section all the way around the hatch gutter. It would be a lot easier than piecing together the original upper pieces. Just a suggestion. Dan

Arne, I agree, not rubber. My boot is NOS still in the Nissan plastic bag and the grommet is quite soft and pliable, probably to help squeeze it through the hole in the boot. When you say vinyl or hard rubber, I am thinking yours may have aged a little. If it is molded from a soft synthetic material such as neoprene, vinyl, or silicone material, it may be much easier to find someone to make, as opposed to rubber which involves a vulcanizing process, I believe. Just some opinions to explore. Dan

Chris, I got the catalog and took a pretty close look at it from end to end. Most of the stuff is specialty for US cars, and the grommet section, though pretty complete I don't think came close enough. The shift boot grommet has a fairly unique shape. I am doing Google and local suppliers to see what I can find. Dan