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About JeffMopar

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Wallingford, CT. USA
  • Occupation
    Parker store customer connector specialist

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1972 240z, Orange, Restoration started. HLS30-73866

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  1. OK, here is a pic. You can see the difference with the fuel line which is normal steel. Everything else is stainless.
  2. That is pretty much what I used. I will upload a pic if I remember when I get home tonight. Mine was sourced directly from a Parker hydraulic store because I am good friends with one of the counter people. Got a great deal on straight lengths up to 20' if you can transport that long.
  3. Doug, I used stainless throughout including the clutch, Its been 5 years with no issues. They still look beautiful. They were harder to bend and flare, but not that much more difficult. I just copied the original bends and lengths when I removed them. If you go with stainless make sure you get the better quality (316). Don't get 304 as it will surface rust. Jeff
  4. 240260280, Yes to suction, I will pull plugs when I get back out there. Thank You, Jeff
  5. Just came in from the garage to have lunch. Started from the beginning and adjusted the RPM at full choke to 1450-1500 and made sure the carbs were balanced. Went through the full Syncing and Balancing process again, same results. Felt like no matter what I did the back carb wasn't getting fuel. Pulled the vent bung off to look inside the float body and used the WD-40 straw to push the float down, fuel immediately filled the bowl and overflowed. So I revved the engine to draw down the fuel level but the fuel didn't go down as much as I would think it should. I am going to pop off the choke linkage from the jet when I go back out and check to see if fuel is flowing freely through the hose from the bowl. Jeff Chickenman, you posted just as I was. Pistons are free and moving as they should, needles are not sticking. Checked manifold and carb bolts and sprayed to look for vacuum leak, nothing. Lifting front piston immediately stalls down engine lifting rear does absolutely nothing also covering air flow with my hand doesn't get any response that is why I think there is no fuel flowing as it should. Adding a pic in case anybody sees something obviously stupid that I missed.
  6. Thanx to everyone for the replys. Mark, Yes, I have flow in the rear carb and I also made sure the chokes were moving smoothly up and down with the lever. Yes pushed up on jets to verify closed when choke is off. Captain Obvious, Chickenman, Yes I have the Unisyn balancer. Both carbs are adjusted to equal flow. I think that should have to mean the throttle plates are open close to equal. When I rev the engine it revs up fairly smoothly with a little desitation and the pistons move like they should. madkaw, I am going to re check the throttle plate movement and make sure the needle and float aren't intermittently sticking shut. I have a few extras to try, it cant hurt, just have to verify float level every change. Thank you to everyone for the help, I will let you know what I find. Jeff
  7. They are not needed if you have a good filter. The fuel in the bowls is totally clean. I installed a filter below the floor pans out of the way and still use the original style so it looks stock. I am going to remove the vent bung tomorrow and check if there is enough room to see inside to verify fuel is entering to keep the bowl full after starting. It fires up very fast with the choke on so I am thinking maybe it is sucking fuel below the level it needs to maintain but the needle is sticking partly and not refilling fast enough.
  8. I didn't think of the red straw idea. I will try that to see if the float is up. I completely rebuilt the carbs and removed the screens from the banjo bolt when disassembled. The only thing I can think of is that the float is sticking randomly, not all the time.
  9. Yes there if fuel in the float bowl. I drained it and did a verification on the fuel height again to make sure it was correct. I am probably going to have to break down and take the carb off and disassemble it again to make sure everything is correct and clean. The car hasn't run since 1990 and I did a complete restoration. This is just working out the little bugs as you go and it gets aggravating. Thanks
  10. Hello, Finally got some time to try to get the Z running. I have the original 3 screws that came on it rebuilt with Ztherepy kits. Got It to start fine and run without the choke after a little warming up. Idles at about 750 to 800. Started to adjust and balance the carbs and realized the rear carb isn't working. I can screw the mixture dial all the way out or in tight and there is no change at all. If I cover the carb with my hand or lift the piston nothing changes. The front carb adjustment works the way it should. I have set the float with the 10 turns down method and verified that the fuel is flowing to that level and stopping at the right height. But cant figure out what could be keeping the fuel from getting into the carb body the way it should!! Any help is appreciated. Thank You, Jeff
  11. siteunseen, Thank you for the help, that works. Didn't know why it wouldn't work in the actual search panel on the site. Oh Well Jeff
  12. Hello All, I have been away for a few months while life gets in the way so I may have missed a few things. I was trying to search on oil issues but the search engine wont search for three letter words. Any way to search the forum for "oil pan" or "EFI" or any other car part with three letters? I hate to post for something that has already been done a few times before because I cant search for previous posts on the subject. Any help is appreciated. Jeff
  13. Hello All, Just a quick thought. Make sure your ground near the bulbs is clean and has a good connection. Having a bad ground shows as crazy syptoms when the power tries to find an alternate ground. Hope that helps. Jeff
  14. I had the door switch wires labeled and they are hooked back up. I checked the rheostat and that is also still hooked up. I may just have to wait until the battery is in and hope for the best. The wiring diagram for this car is totally frustrating with the items not on my car or showing more wires then are there (door switches and combo switch).
  15. Zed Head, I am going to use an ohm meter to check for ground and maybe to the fuses also. I don't want to hook the battery up until as much is connected as possible. Also when I put in the steering column maybe something will be obvious.
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