2003z

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About 2003z

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  1. 2003z

    Car won't start

    they were motorcraft, I replaced them with Bosch. Wanted to use NGK, but noone local had them either time.
  2. 2003z

    Car won't start

    fouled plugs. I guess too much idling with the choke on, and not enough real running of the engine.
  3. 2003z

    Car won't start

    I might sound like I know what I'm doing, but I really just muddle along. The plugs look fouled, so i will replace them and try again.
  4. 2003z

    Car won't start

    I haven't driven the car much since the engine rebuild, in fact only had it broken in on a dyno then a track day and drove it from one side of atlanta to the other. I recently sold the car but have been working on some title issues, that we finally cleared up, and on friday, I moved the car out of the garage to do some other work and it started fine, on saturday, when I went to take it on a proving run before its long drive to the new home, I couldn't start it. It cranks for a second or two, lights off for about 2 revolutions and dies. Its an L28 with SU carbs, any ideas?
  5. Since I was only in my vette this year, I kind of faded into the background. That viper was crazy, but mostly its the bikes. There were about as many cars this year as last, but the mix is changing. Before it was about 75% 350z's and now only about 50%. Next year the pickle should be running again though!
  6. I'm one of the sponsors (www.thepowdercoater.com) and will be giving away a standard L6 powdercoated valve cover (black wrinkle/bare alum. letters) a Turbo L6 valve cover (probably gunmetal with black letters) and a 350z Plenum (probably gloss black) Unfortunately, I will be Z-less, as my engine is still out of the car. I will be in a black trailblazer ss and a black C6 corvette for the weekend.
  7. this was posted by someone on hybridz a while back. "for what is worth the ford 5.4 exhaust studs work, they are 8mm, that is what i used for my 4 barrel swap, the part # is -w703902-s403 for what appears to be copper or -n811313-s431 for just regular metal studs and if i remember correctly they are a little longer than the stock nissan studs" I bought the regular metal studs, I think they were about $1.50 each at the local ford dealer.
  8. I think that would be an awesome solution. I have an old hooker header on mine that was extremely rusty. I got it ceramic coated in black and it looks great. They first do regular ceramic (jet hot) inside and out, then put a black ceramic topcoat on it. Haven't got the engine running yet though.
  9. you can use that single stage chrome, but I would put a clearcoat on over it. Since its the same price and both really need a clearcoat, I use their regular reflective chrome, because it shoots out smoother from the gun and doesn't get silver veins if applied a little too heavily.
  10. its not as good as it seems. It discolors if you get any type of engine degreaser or other solvents on it, just like the 2 stage chrome. I did a couple of motorcycle foot pegs for a guy and he brought them back a week later after he got degreaser on them, and they had turned gray. Also, on my 240, I did the accelerator linkage, right on the firewall part and left it on when I pressure washed the engine compartment. Zep Industrial Purple turned it gray too.
  11. 2003z

    V8 Conversion

    www.hybridz.org Do some searching over there before asking questions though. There is lots of info and they don't like rehashing the same stuff over and over. Still, a very knowledgeable group.
  12. just looked at it again, and the valve definitely has to be bent. I can see it right next to the spark plug hole, and it should be on the other side of the engine. After assembly, I turned the whole thing a few revolutions via a wrench on the crankshaft, so there shouldn't have been interference.
  13. I don't think so, have to check with them though.
  14. sorry, fod is an aviation term for foreign object damage. Any piece of trash that will kill an engine.
  15. Its a fairly straight forward job. When you take th speedo and tach apart, just use tweezers to lift the needle and slide the faces over them.The other 2 split gauges had to be glued and taped in place, They said use dble sided tape included, but there was none, so I used elmers glue and a little scotch tape in the corners to hold them while the glue set. The clock was easy.