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What seals are these?


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I'm assuming there's a seal that should go between the fuel filler tube and the floor of the trunk, I can see daylight through there and I'm sure that's not helping my fume problem. Also, what's the smaller seal to the left of the tube? Hopefully they can be replaced, but if not, does anyone have experience in using gasket material or something else to make things work?


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I went to the "99 cents only" store and stocked up on the exact same gasket maker stuff that they sell at autozone for 7 bucks. I use that stuff to fill in all the old spots where the grommets are long gone and it's airtight and hi-temp, so I don't have to worry about leaks. They had tons of them in stock at two 99's near me, they might have some in stock near you. They have the regular black, the hi-temp red, and everything in between. It's especially great for those areas that are not going to be seen easily.

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There is a rubber like putty commonly know as "dumm dumm" that is used as seal for windshields, tail lights, that sort of thing. Auto parts stores have it. It comes in a roll, is about 1/4 diameter bead of this super sticky rubber compound. Rip off a chunk, warm it up, knead it, stretch it, stuff it into the spaces you have. Stays soft.

Tony is talking about various gasket making goo in a tube that is very similar to silicon caulking. Not bad to use for this I suppose, but surfaces have to be clean if you expect it to stick and seal.

Just don't use old socks...

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Using an old sock had occurred to me, but do you have any idea how hard it is to find a bright orange tube sock this time of year? I'll have to wait till Halloween rolls around to find one of those.

I was thinking of slapping a couple layers of Gorilla Tape over the opening as a temporary fix, but I like the Dumm Dumm idea much better.

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There is a gasket that comes up from below. That fixed nut visible behind the filler tube is where it bolts to.

There is a grommet and a plate that afix to the bottom of that "floor" that the filler neck goes through.

The other seal is for one of the vent hoses coming up to the vapor tank from the fuel tank.

Check the microfiche, that will show you the proper parts to repair instead of putting on a band-aid.

"Dumm-dumm" is not rubber, it's tar. It has it's place, but I don't know that I would want it up against rubber parts that will absorb the oils in it. (Kind of like Vaseline and rubber.)

Wick Humble mentions dum-dum in his book, but he uses it between metal pieces to avoid the metal/metal friction.



Edited by EScanlon
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MSA has the gas tank filler neck as an assembly, it looks like it comes with that metal ring and grommet. I just ordered all the tail and hatch seals from them, but not the fuel tank ones that are also at Banzai's site. I'd rather not order a whole new tank filler tube, but that may be my only (and safest) option. Thanks for the continued help, everyone :)

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Are you talking about liquid gasket maker, or a type of material that can be cut into shapes and sealed in place? I've never had to make a gasket before, this is new to me.

Like ZKars said, it's a goop, like a small tube of toothpaste. As far as it being clean, what I do is just apply to both sides of the hole, so that it forms half on one side, and, since it will of course stick to itself, form another airtight half on the other side, since it will be built up a little. As far as it being a band-aid, it's not. The stuff will be hi-temp and airtight, like I said in my first post and will be very oil-resistant, so it'll be there a good long time. If you're especially good with that stuff, you can even make it look good, but only if that matters to you. Make sure to let it cure properly before you drive the car, I think it cures in 24 hours, sets in like 20 minutes. It will stay slightly pliable to absorb any vibration. I've never heard of Dumm Dumm, but that sounds good, too.

Edited by DeMoore
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Yep, done this also. But I got my new tank filler tube from Courtesy Nissan as they were more cost effective than MSA even with the club discount applied.

As the clamp that holds the rubber grommet in place around the filler tube is exposed, I used stainless cap screws to secure the plate. Cost of 3x M4 cap screws and spring washers is minimal.

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