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Bruce....I get your clue, however the tank was clean inside.......must have been bad gas! I'm redoing another tank that is like new on the outside but has brown powdery surface rust all over the inside ( the car wasn't driven since 1979). I've seen the Red Kote at radiator shops and it looks like red "Twizzlers". Now I'm not knocking "Twizzlers" but it was stretchy and didn't really turn me on (however it must be a good product or motorcycle people wouldn't use it) I think the overwhelming advice is POR 15 and I trust what I've heard here to give it a try. Thanks again for all help and advice. Guy

Has anyone used POR 15 gas tank sealer in their Z gas tank to seal the inside of the tank? Do you think you're better off living with a little rust or sealing the tank? Any other solutions?

Thanks Jon,Steve and Winger.......once again you've helped me do it right! Guy

Steve......I put the longer DS, late diff mount and rear diff crossmember (hanger) so I could update to the R200 which I already own. The restraining strap is anchored at a different point on the early 71's and 70's than on your 72. It was a tight fit when I put the R180 back in with the new set up. I'm wondering if anyone has put the R200 into the early 70,71 Z's and if the restraining strap was a tight fit. You've brought up a good point though.....can I use my early half shafts (will they fit the R200 without mods)? Also.....did you see my post on the Richmond Show in October? If you come up for the show we can park the 2 lime Z's together!" Two Limes Don't Make a Right"........Sorry Ron I couldn't resist that one!

When putting an R200 diff into an early Z, is there any clearance problems with the diff restraining strap? I had to "squeeze her in" when I converted my early 71 to the longer drive shaft and diff mount. Will I have the same problem with the diff strap when I change out the 180 to the 200?

Call me "Old Fashion", but unless it was built by Robello or someone like that, I like to see the bottom end.......besides it's like a precision puzzle....it's a blast to take apart and put together!

The 7th annual "People's Choice Z Car Show" will be held on Sunday October 19 from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. at Victory Nissan; 11401 West Broad St.; Richmond, Virginia. This is a well attended show with a number of Z's from the D.C. area as well. I'd love to see some of the East Coast members in person. Updates can be found at www.richmondzcar.com. Why not make plans for a nice road trip in October. Guy

Anyone know where Hick Wumble's car is?

Steve-It's 43 ftlbs. in the Haynes manual also. The bolt is hardened steel and so is the cam (female threads) so it probably can take a 100 or so ftlbs. ,but it was quite a discrepancy so thought I would bring it up.By the way as soon as they announce dates on the Richmond show I'll post it. Guy

I always replace the chain and tensioner when I rebuild old Z engines. The chain kit from Motorsports has tensioner, guides, chain and sprockets. I use Nismo adjustable cam sprockets when I rebuild. This is the first time I've even fitted the crank sprocket.......I certainly agree that you can't trust anything but the real thing. Just a heads up.....don't use the crank sprocket from the timing chain kit.

Anyone else notice that the camshaft sprocket bolt torque in the 'How to Modify" book by Frank Honsoweltz on page 86 is 100-108 ft.lbs. and the torque given in the factory manual is 43 ft. lbs.? Which is it? Also......has anyone had any problem with the crank sprocket provided with the Motorsport Japanese timing chain kit. The key slot is too loose allowing the sprocket to rock back and forth?

Bart-If you're using a new cam, you will also need to use new rockers (Nissan is the choice) as the old rockers break in to the original stock cam. A stage III cam will require different lash pads to get rocker geometry correct. Isky regrinds Datsun cams and provides the correct springs and lash pads. The reground cams are metal compatable with the original steel. www.ISKYCAMS.COM Good Luck Guy

Sorry Will....It was on the back of a flatbed tow truck and he wanted $350.00 for it. My wife would have killed me if I had unloaded it in the yard. Believe me it was nasty....inside and out! I mean rotten!

Just looked at 1969 model HLS3000220. The car was an absolute basket case. It was so rusted that I could hardly tell the original color. The engine must have been rebuilt at some time because it had an E88 head. He's taking it to the crusher tomorrow. It was late and dark so I didn't get any other numbers from the car.

Awesome look! A/C is cheap in a garage.......go for it!

Do I need to call you Doc?

Steve-I'll let you know as soon as I know! The L28 really gets down the road! It pulls really good at the higher RPM. I'm really looking forward to seeing what the L24 does with the E31 (oversized valves) Stage II Isky regrind and .040 over pistons. I've got the original engine from the 1970 that I'm gonna build with a Stage I, but it'll have to wait. The Richmond show is a damned good turnout as is the Hampton Show. It ain't that far from Raleigh! Guy

Yes....most Z's have low readings, but of all the engines I've built (about a dozen) there has been no ridge and very minimal wear on the cam, rockers, bearings,crank or rod journals. The books call for 10lbs. of pressure for each 1,000 RPM.

Steve (XRAY)-I just viewed your diff video. You are friggin' beyond the call of duty! It was awesome. You've got to come to the Richmond Show this October. It'll be a good one. Oiji, ZPIZZAMAN and more will be there! Hope you and some of the other East Coast Z Nuts can make it.....would love to meet you! Guy

Roger that Poindexter! I call it Lemon Green. You're right too XRAY.......The Tobacco Company...Hot food and Hot Chicks...must be a VCU grad..... Guy

Fred............The car for sale in Georgia would cost mucho more than $30,000 to restore. I know and you know cause I've saved all receipts on my 71 restoration. The Safari Gold car in Atlanta is a bargain at $30,000 and probably so at $35,000........however doing it yourself is so much more fun....wouldn't you agree? Guy

I own HLS3004880 (1970) build date 5/70......also HLS3029832 (1971) build date 5/71......also HLS3096034 (1972) build date 7/72. I have a spare motor with HLS3007913 if anyone happens to own that car. Guy Miller

Now have a cold brew!

If he installed the wood block properly and only lacks 1/8 inch and everything has stayed the same , slight pressure on the cam sprocket should solve the problem. It's certainly worth a try!

Taking the cover off is the very last resort...........The tensioner cannot come out but so far if your wood block is installed. While you are holding the sprocket (with dowel pin hole just below the dowel pin on cam) get a buddy to put a long screwdriver etc. through one of the upper pulley holes. Rest one end somewhere safe on the head and pry the pulley up till it slides in the dowell. No major force should be required. What has happened is the chain has slackened slightly to allow a small movement in tensioner piston. The pry bar will tighen the chain causes a retreat of the piston and the cam sprocket will slide right on! Then drink an ice cold beer! Guy (we've all been there)