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Anyone else notice that the camshaft sprocket bolt torque in the 'How to Modify" book by Frank Honsoweltz on page 86 is 100-108 ft.lbs. and the torque given in the factory manual is 43 ft. lbs.? Which is it? Also......has anyone had any problem with the crank sprocket provided with the Motorsport Japanese timing chain kit. The key slot is too loose allowing the sprocket to rock back and forth?

Bart-If you're using a new cam, you will also need to use new rockers (Nissan is the choice) as the old rockers break in to the original stock cam. A stage III cam will require different lash pads to get rocker geometry correct. Isky regrinds Datsun cams and provides the correct springs and lash pads. The reground cams are metal compatable with the original steel. www.ISKYCAMS.COM Good Luck Guy

Sorry Will....It was on the back of a flatbed tow truck and he wanted $350.00 for it. My wife would have killed me if I had unloaded it in the yard. Believe me it was nasty....inside and out! I mean rotten!

Just looked at 1969 model HLS3000220. The car was an absolute basket case. It was so rusted that I could hardly tell the original color. The engine must have been rebuilt at some time because it had an E88 head. He's taking it to the crusher tomorrow. It was late and dark so I didn't get any other numbers from the car.

Awesome look! A/C is cheap in a garage.......go for it!

Do I need to call you Doc?

Steve-I'll let you know as soon as I know! The L28 really gets down the road! It pulls really good at the higher RPM. I'm really looking forward to seeing what the L24 does with the E31 (oversized valves) Stage II Isky regrind and .040 over pistons. I've got the original engine from the 1970 that I'm gonna build with a Stage I, but it'll have to wait. The Richmond show is a damned good turnout as is the Hampton Show. It ain't that far from Raleigh! Guy

Yes....most Z's have low readings, but of all the engines I've built (about a dozen) there has been no ridge and very minimal wear on the cam, rockers, bearings,crank or rod journals. The books call for 10lbs. of pressure for each 1,000 RPM.

Steve (XRAY)-I just viewed your diff video. You are friggin' beyond the call of duty! It was awesome. You've got to come to the Richmond Show this October. It'll be a good one. Oiji, ZPIZZAMAN and more will be there! Hope you and some of the other East Coast Z Nuts can make it.....would love to meet you! Guy

Roger that Poindexter! I call it Lemon Green. You're right too XRAY.......The Tobacco Company...Hot food and Hot Chicks...must be a VCU grad..... Guy

Fred............The car for sale in Georgia would cost mucho more than $30,000 to restore. I know and you know cause I've saved all receipts on my 71 restoration. The Safari Gold car in Atlanta is a bargain at $30,000 and probably so at $35,000........however doing it yourself is so much more fun....wouldn't you agree? Guy

I own HLS3004880 (1970) build date 5/70......also HLS3029832 (1971) build date 5/71......also HLS3096034 (1972) build date 7/72. I have a spare motor with HLS3007913 if anyone happens to own that car. Guy Miller

Now have a cold brew!

If he installed the wood block properly and only lacks 1/8 inch and everything has stayed the same , slight pressure on the cam sprocket should solve the problem. It's certainly worth a try!

Taking the cover off is the very last resort...........The tensioner cannot come out but so far if your wood block is installed. While you are holding the sprocket (with dowel pin hole just below the dowel pin on cam) get a buddy to put a long screwdriver etc. through one of the upper pulley holes. Rest one end somewhere safe on the head and pry the pulley up till it slides in the dowell. No major force should be required. What has happened is the chain has slackened slightly to allow a small movement in tensioner piston. The pry bar will tighen the chain causes a retreat of the piston and the cam sprocket will slide right on! Then drink an ice cold beer! Guy (we've all been there)

If you buy from your dealer there will be no shipping charge (if you pick up at the dealer).

Sounds like a solenoid not engagimg properly. The solenoid kicks in a small gear that engages the flywheel, then backs out when the key is released and the engine is running. It's no big deal unless it continues. A new starter is 49.95 plus p&h from Black Dragon.

Paul.....Bingo you got it.....I took out the headlight fuses and put them back in. Everything works perfect.....must have been a little corrosion on the fuse. Thanks for everyone's help. Now everything is perfect!

Thanks Stephen......It's a mystery to me too! In 30 years I've never seen it.....I thought I had hooked up something wrong. It's always a learning experience! Guy

Try Bruce Palmer at Z Therapy......They sell reconditioned Air Boxes......Everything they do is AAA+......even if he does drive a station wagon!

Thanks again Nissanman.......I had an old voltage regulator that I plugged in and the problem seems to be solved. I've never had one go bad before....any thoughts on what would kill the voltage regulator? The headlight issue seems to be unrelated (as you guessed ). I appreciate your assistance as always. Good Luck! Guy Jonnyrock- You're right.....the extra draw probably worked the belt harder and heated up! Thanks Guy

Thanks for your reply Nissanman.......It is the ampmeter on the dash....It's reading all the way to the right at higher RPM and stays there till I go to idle. I installed a new alternator and then went back to the old alternator with the same result. I have a new voltage regulator here I could try........could that be the problem? All connections are as were before the rebuild.

Just rebuilt my L28 and put a new alternator. Hooked everything back up as before and now my voltmeter is pegged all the way to the +. Also my left headlight is so dim as to barely see it. Furthermore the belt even though it was tightened properly was squealing like it was overworking. I put the old alternator back on....still had the problem. I believe the alternator was hot also, but that could be engine temp. What's the cause?

Steve Yes we drilled out the front for the mechanical pump(more reliable). All bolts are Nissan new....at least almost all. All parts are new or remanufactured. It ain't cheap to go that route, but it sure is puuurrrdy! The fuel rail came from Zeddsavers.

Carl I'm still running the stock needles but Doc says for the L28 the SM's will do better. I'll tinker with the two and post some results. This is the first performance motor I've built and let me tell you........it sounds like a million dollars! I'm modifying the 240z stock (MSA) exhaust by having the machine shop build me a downpipe flange and weld it onto the 240 downpipe (I hope the angle and pickup on the stock manifold are pretty close for the two). When I get it back, I'll be able to put her on the road. You can feel the muscle and rev in this engine........ even in the garage! Doc says it should produce 225 h.p. and be a 13.9 quarter mile. I've been in love with these cars since I got my first Z in 1970 and that certainly ain't going away! Thanks for all your help on the Forum and I'll keep everyone posted on this car and the 71. Guy