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My all-time favourite Bondo Queen was a Ferrari 275 GTB that appeared on the FerrariChat website several years ago. It looked so-o-o-o pretty (and cost the new owner about $1.5 Million at the time to make the pivot from 'just shopping' to 'proud new owner'). Nevertheless, he decided to commission a shop to make it 'even better' (including new paint, of course). Unfortunately, when the shop started to prep the body panels for said new paint job, they discovered evidence of filler in places where it shouldn't have been. Digging deeper (literally), they found that the entire nose was nothing more than Bondo. Up to 1" deep in many places. More exploration (excavation?) found deep pockets of damage that made one think that the car had fallen off the top level of an auto hauler and landed on its roof. The shop was stunned by quality of the bondo slinger's work, calling him an artist. When we made the transition from horses to autos a century or so ago, the method of transportation may have changed but the same shysters stayed loyal to the cause and moved from 'horse traders' to car retailers without losing a step.

It should be a wire coming off the Accessory Relay. In the 73, it's a blue wire. YMMV according to discussions I've seen on this board in the past. Look at where the Accessory Relay plugs into the wiring harness. One of those wires should be going to the center stack with a bullet connector.

My battery cables? I was poking around online and discovered these things called "military battery terminals". Sometimes also called "Marine". The neat part is the basic shape is similar to the OEM lugs, so on a whim, I bought a cheap set off Amazon. So the shape is similar to OEM, but they use a bolt/nut to hold a cable onto the lug. They look like this: Then I removed the original bolt and threaded the hole that the bolt goes through. My first experience tapping lead. Went OK and I learned some about the process. 1) Easiest if you don't have to reverse the tap, and if you DO reverse the tap, do it often, like every half turn or so. 2) It's much easier on a (shallow) through hole because you don't have to reverse the tap, just run the tap all the way through. If the part you're tapping isn't shallow enough to do in one pass without packing the flutes and binding, then you're going to have to reverse the tap, which is a PITA because you have to do it so often. So, all that said... I took the bolt out and tapped the hole: Then I made a brass threaded insert on the lathe: I bought a length of battery wire off ebay. Came with lugs crimped on both ends. I got 5/16 hole on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut that piece of wire in half (so now I have two lengths with different holes on the ends. Larger for the starter mounting bolt, and smaller for the starter solenoid connection. Stripped back the insulation on the ends, and inserted the cable strands into the brass piece I made: I used a small torch to solder the cable into the threaded insert: Looks like this after sodering: Screwed the threaded brass into the lead lug, and a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have this: It's not OEM or one of the aftermarket replicas, but it cost a grand total of maybe thirty bucks in parts*. *And at least six hundred dollars in unrealized labor cost. Hahahaha!!!

320 In the tunnel there is a threaded rod that attaches the cable yoke to the handle. There are actually two threaded connections if you need it. You need to thread it out to get enough slack. Then you can adjust it to where it holds in about 5 or 6 clicks Datsun Z Hand Brake & Hand Brake Cable#20 and #11 both have threads and locknuts

The new flahers fixed the issue. We also connected the brake lights up so the JDM rear taillights are all connected and work properly

I have a number of cars that sit for long periods of time. I use non ethanol fuel and Stabil. Typically keep the tanks full, to help with condensation. Rare for me to have a fuel issue and some may sit for 2 or more years, but I try to get fresh fuel in them yearly.

Do you have so little $^!# to do in life that you sit and talk to yourself on some shabby forum?

I used #4 gauge cable. Bought a 60 inch length off ebay with 5/16 lug on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut it in half* to make two cables. Was cheapest that way. I don't know if this is the exact vendor I used or not, but here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141679228250 Today's price for the cable(s) is about $16, and the military lugs were $10. So my out of pocket for my two original-ish looking cables was $26 for the pair. *After having been through this once, I would skew the cut point maybe two inches towards the positive side. In other words, I would steal two inches of cable from the negative and add that length to the positive making the positive four inches longer than the negative.

It may well be, but this is a homemade example. The correct tool follows the same rough design, the "cut-out" on the board show the shape and has provision to fit a 3/8 or 1/2 socket drive. The was one on Yahoo auctions a week or two ago...

Yes, a very near solution! More lathe envy...

I believe, the unusual shaped wrench about halfway down on the right side is for valve adjustment to tighten and loosen the lock nuts. The other below it may be for holding the adjusting nut while tightening

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

Zed Head- Amen

Naah. It's just about honest disclosure. That's all. As usual, you've twisted something simple in to a mass of convoluted irrationality. To what end, who knows. Again, sorry DC. I imagine that you can see how these things start. It's not a pissing battle. It's just one guy who feels like he can wizz wherever he wants to.

I also made a set of battery cables and swapped out the ratchet strap hold-down for something a little more appropriate. I know it loses some of that road-kill character, but it's much cleaner now. Here's what I started with: And here's what I got now: And I included the ground wire directly from the battery to the firewall now. Didn't have this before:

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

I'm working on a knowledge post about the S30's automatic transmissions, and for that, I tried to update my document collection. Since I don't have any Auto transmission and don't plant to install one ever, it was obviously never a priority. So recently a few things arrived again from all over the world. Some of them are pretty cool and rare: First, a set of original Nissan Japan 3N71B Auto transmission service manuals from 1971 and 1973. They're not specific to this car, but they have some good general information about that specific transmission. I also got the English version of the earlier 3N71A transmission manual. This time specific for the 240Z. Nothing crazy inside, but good for some reference data if you're a nerd like me. Speaking of Automatic transmissions. I got this cool troubleshooting guide slider, which was issued for both the A and B transmissions by Nissan USA in 1972: The delivery also included some Mikuni triple carb-setup parts: And i also came across this Mikuni PH level gauge for 2 bucks, so I had to get it: It even came with a nice little operation manual leaflet and padded pouch: Then I also got this nice booklet called "Z-car" by driver magazine JP. It's basically a collection of all their S30-related publications from their monthly magazine. I still have to read through all of it, but so far it has some very nice stories, including the original designers of the car. The only downside so far is the overload of praise for Mr. K as the sole man behind the Z, which is of course nonsense. But as said, i only read two pages so far. Speaking of documents. I made a copy of that original Nissalco 240Z special service toolbox manual, as it was falling apart. And I have to say it turned out pretty good for my first attempt at something like this. I picked up a load of tool-related things yesterday and have a lot of pending orders. so stay tuned for another update soon.

Hey! If you remove the screws that indicator light can be removed. Unless the PO glued it on. I get nervous just looking at that picture.

They may have sprayed clear over it.

Both XenonZcar and Nicoclub have downloadable factory service manuals.

It's fixed. Back to normal programming...

Forgot to say - are you sure it's really Mike? The chatbots stop responding also. Maybe it's too late. We miss you Mike. 😪

Mike has been active on the site in the past couple hours . He knows about these posts and is choosing to let them continue on. There is significant credence in your theory Zed: I don't think it's training though... I think it's straight-up spamming and it seems we're going to have to live with it. @siteunseen , I challenge you to a game of "Spot the Bot". Hahaha!!!

I am trolling Spot the Bot. It's a new game I like instead of telling brain dead people the same stuff over and over.

I want one, Then again I want my project to be on the road also!!!

Looks like a nice clean car. GLWS

I also think it's for the AC (compressor motor switch). Nissan supplied a similar, blue-colored wire (with a bullet-style connector) for that purpose as part of the Z's mini-harness (Item #13 in the diagram above).

I actually have one of these original ones on my other tool wall (See top left), But I realized there are various different versions for different engines The two missing ones have each a different part number. There was one included in the set (not shown in the picture) but that again was not an original Kent-Moore tool, but a 3rd party product (Hazet or so). Not bad, but I'm trying to fill my wall with the original stuff :-)

My early wiring diagram shows a red wire coming off the accessory relay connected to that blue wire. So I'm thinking they might have changed colors at the bullet connector. They did some weird stuff like that on the early cars. Next time I have my HVAC panel off, I'll take a look, but it might be a couple days.

@captainobvious Nice work Bruce, What gauge cable did you use?

@SteveJ

Yes on the White/Red. Through the hole in the back, attach to the screw lug in the middle right.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

I believe fuel will crystallize. I have a 56 beetle that was left with fuel in it. The bottom of the tank was full of ruby colored amber. Took a chisel to get it out...

Leave it alone and keep keep an eye on the pre & post filters IMO.

Looks like it still has an engine. Says it's a turbo. Row521982 Datsun 280ZX at PICK-n-PULL Portland South JN1CZ04S1CX623964

Refer to the figure below (taken from the FSM), which shows how the inner and outer rockers and the floor pan come together. The arrow on the outboard flange of the floor pan shows how the flange aligns with the inner rocker. Note the horizontal rib (with the 'hockey stick' shape at the forward end) that's pressed into Inner Rocker ('Inner Sill). The top of the Floor Pan's outboard flange (designated in the figure by the small black circle) should align with the lower edge of the rib. The line of spot welds that joins floor pan to inner rocker sits about halfway up the floor pan's outboard flange (see photo).

The wiper motor is under the cowel, i think he has it mixed up that you cant take off the fenders without taking off the cowel. there are 2 large bolts holding on the fender under the cowel.

You meant N47 =MN47

This is the one I posted several weeks ago advertised on Hagerty Marketplace. Was passed in.

1970 SERIES 1 !!! 🥴 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-139/

@Kats had posted this picture of cars driving off the assembly line. He also posted the engine test cell for the L series.

I bought some service tools off the bay decades ago. Along with two boxes, here's what I have.

I'm glad its not common. the previous owner did some weird stuff to this car in the 80s to make it look a certain way. im not so happy im the one who chose to remove all this bondo and booger welds. Ohwell. i guess this is what i signed up for when i wanted a project car. hopefully there isnt as much rust on this car as others.

Last thought... I think that welding the buckets to the fenders and removing that seam line is a great improvement to the looks of the car. When done right, of course.

The internet is why we cannot have nice things 🙄

This carries on from a old thread; https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/22164-260z-in-japan/#comment-188206 As HS30-H says in the thread, the Japanese market 260z sold cars were recalled, so I presume anything specifically related to this model, the Fairlady 260z, wouldn't have sold in any great quantity. Well, I spotted these on Yahoo auctions Japan a few weeks ago, and I presume these are for this recalled model;

Very interesting. One of the cool things about this forum is the new things you learn each day and enhance your knowledge. Very cool.