Leaderboard

The original pump includes an inlet strainer, but I don’t think the O’Reilly’s E16078 has one. In principle it’s the same style as the Bosch 0580 254 044 that replaced the factory unit. If you want to add a pre-filter, you can install two 5/16" filters in parallel to avoid fuel starvation and prevent cavitation in the pump. Their only purpose is to protect the pump, the filter up front will protect the injectors. 280 Series Fuel pump Alternatives Rev 1.pdf

Use the wheel to get close and the brake lever for final adjustment. Tighten the wheel until the drum barely goes on, then pump the brake lever a few times. If the self-adjustment is working the lever will only come up about half-way. As you drive the car occasionally you'll notice that parking brake lever got tighter as the wheel moves a notch.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!

Just got the harmonic balancer Back. Looks really good. Namerow asked for pictures.

Looks cross threaded to me, and seems it should be threaded farther in if it weren't.

Now get some sleep. 🙂

And the magic number is 11 rotations of the cam, or 22 rotations of the crank. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62752-bright-links-on-timing-chain-line-up-every-11-rotations/

Okay, so I've received various plugs and set screws from both McMaster and Bel-Metric. I ordered 1/8 and 1/4 NPT, 1/8 and 1/4 BSPT, M12 x 1.50 straight thread and M12 x 1.50 tapered thread, and I am still a bit confused! I won't hold you hostage until the end, I'll give you what I THINK the holes were from factory, and then I'll provide some pictures and notes from my "testing". I think the factory balance tube (US market 240Z) came with 2 ea. - 1/8" BSPT and 5 ea. - 1/4" BSPT holes BALANCE TUBE 1/4" BSPT HOLES it was clear to me that 1/4" NPT is too big, couldn't really even get a thread to start, so it makes sense that, 1) One COULD force 1/4" NPT into the holes in the soft aluminum and create some sort of "seal", and 2) a hole that had been "buggered by a previous (or current!) owner could likely be salvaged by tapping to 1/4" NPT. The 1/4" BSPT plugs I have encounter resistance at 1-1/2 turns and are fairly tight at 1-3/4 - 2 turns. This leaves them sticking out farther than I would like for a clean, plugged look as I would like them to be as close to flush as possible. The M12 x 1.50 straight thread, socket set screw I tried fit very loose initially, and threaded quite a ways in (farthest of the three options I tried) before finally hitting resistance. I feel like it MIGHT have finally created a "seal", but not ideal in my opinion. The M12 x 1.50 TAPERED plug encountered resistance at about 3-1/4 turns and was fairly tight at 3-1/2 turns in. This left it pretty close to flush to the surface and provided a good seal and I think this is what I will be using to plug 1/4" BSPT holes. (see pictures below) BALANCE TUBE 1/8" BSPT HOLES it was clear to me that 1/8" NPT is too big, couldn't really even get a thread to start, so it makes sense that, 1) One COULD force 1/8" NPT into the holes in the soft aluminum and create some sort of "seal", and, 2) a hole that had been "buggered" by a previous (or current!) owner could likely be salvaged by tapping to 1/8" NPT. The 1/8" BSPT plugs I have, encounter resistance at 1-1/2 turns and are fairly tight at 2 turns in. This leaves them sticking out more than I would like for a clean look (see pictures below) now I want to experiment with M10 fine thread (both straight and tapered) in the 1/8 BSPT holes INTAKE MANIFOLD WATER HEATING HOLES The outside (inlet and outlet) holes come from the factory with 1/4" BSPT holes Again, the 1/4" BSPT plugs don't thread in very far and sit proud. The M12 x 1.50 TAPER thread plugs thread in farther and sit pretty flush for a clean look. the inner holes (two holes on the inside of each part of the two-part manifold that connects the manifold halves with "bushings" and metal tubing) come from the factory with M16 x 1.50 STRAIGHT thread. I have some M16 x 1.50 straight AND taper plugs coming to try in those holes. I'm now thinking that a straight-threaded plug with a low head and Loctited, may be the ideal ticket for this hole since there is a machined spot to accommodate a bolt head. Heck, any old M16 x 1.50 bolt will work here! Keep in mind that these holes, if not being used (not connected to water lines), can stay open, they do not need to be sealed/plugged, as they will not affect anything other than keeping the intakes warm on initial start-up in cooler weather/climates. I just want to plug them for aesthetic purposes. Here's some pictures to clarify my rambling!

I get a kick out of a big horn sound coming out of a weee Z car. 😎

Good question. Pull the parking light fuse and see if things change.

To recap...I was looking for suggestions on replacement horns for now until I get around to rebuilding the original ones. I ended up buying and installing these from Z Car Depot: https://zcardepot.com/products/horn-set-hi-lo-240z-260z-280z-510?variant=50610208964920&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bshopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17820837536&gbraid=0AAAAADgHqXssZ64ffuRLMdHFQA1WVqNee&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju_aM-ViE06tUtzcGp1fUrYiM7OyJd_3WeMCCfgkuDa7cRHrPUPNNsBoCRM4QAvD_BwE They do the trick. Not sure when I'll get around to diving into rebuilding the original ones, though for now I can still drive around and let people know I there. :)

I've been using a set of FIAMM air horns for about 50 years, very Euro and VERY loud!!! 😲

Absolutely! Will take me a little while, but the quality and sound were great on the test run!

Steve, though I’m sure you’re not surprised, it worked! Thank you!

It will even both sides out. It affects the adjustment of the shoes so will affect the brake pedal. Can't remember for sure but I think that you will also feel the brakes apply a little higher on the pedal after a notch gets taken up. It's one reason that seems rational for converting to disc brakes if you're in to precise brake performance. Should emphasize though that you need to be sure the parts are clean, lubricated, and not worn, in order for the system to work correctly. You can test it with a drum off by pulling the cable by hand and watching the parts move, I think.

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

@Mike Might want to have a look here.

If you get 95% STT you're doing great. I struggle to get 50% with my Southern background ;)

Yes, the front turn signals have gotten expensive and used ones can be rough because they're close to the ground

Sounds like you don't agree 100%. We're just offering possibilities. It's actually more interesting to some of us that the fitting was 3/4 turn loose and did not leak sooner. If it was mine I'd pull that line and make sure I didn't need more parts before starting the MC replacement. Might find out that you don't need a new MC, you actually need a new hard line.

Yeah, you're right, it does look crooked...I wonder how it didn't leak for 6 years if it was like this. I'll install the new master this weekend anyhow since I already bought it and report back on the state of the threads, etc.

The angle of the brake line tubing itself should be straight going in. You need to manipulate that line where its dead center going in. You mentioned it didn’t leak before but I think you may have had luck on your side.

That’s going to be the market price you will find for new reproduction’s. Try Resurected Classic.’s. This time of year you might find a deal but you will probably stay in that range.

The rear reservoir would be for the front brakes. Unless you mean the reservoir for the rear brakes when you say rear reservoir. Neither reservoir should be pressurized. The pressure should only be created by the pistons in the MC bore. If you had moisture in the brake fluid it wouldn't be a surprise to have corrosion in the bore after 6 years. Then when you pushed the pedal to the floor you might have damaged the rubber seal inside. So, loose fitting allows reservoir ro leak dry, pedal goes to floor because of it, damaging MC seals, new MC leak looks like old fitting leak. Should have got that fitting tight the first time. Seems like it was very loose. Oh well.

It's also possible that the metal to metal seal of the brake line was damaged when you changed the MC the first time. Pretty common for the tube to twist with the fitting when the fitting is loosened. The only way to be sure is to examine the parts. A magnifying glass and bright lights help. Take a close look and you'll see where the actual sealing surface is. A spec of foreign matter can screw things up. Something to be aware of if you do change the MC. The threads don't do the sealing, they just do the clamping. You can see the cone that fits inside the end of the tube in this image from Rockauto. That's the sealing surface.

It's more likely that your MC seals have blown.

The reason I mess up when talking about ChatGPT with my colleagues on campus…

The nut on the brake line into the master cylinder is a metal on metal seal. If you have factory lines or CuNi lines then you should be able to get it to seal. If they're stainless, they can be much harder to get sealed

If the paint on the booster below the mounts of the MC has been eaten away sounds like the master is bad. Start there. Seating the lines on the master cylinder can be tricky.

"This conversation can serve no purpose anymore." You win this round of Spot The Bot!!

Totally agree... web vers. in person deanships. You're right the Zecard Depot guys do have the nuts and bolts that I need but by the time I get through with those guys I'm at $225.

The first picture from the left shows a completed repaired hi- lo beam switch circuit board repair. The next 2 pictures show continuity on both of the hi- lo beam switch closed circuits. In the mail on the way I have a parts turn signal switch with broken hi- lo beam switch circuit board. In the near future I can detail my repair protocol if there is interest out in Datsunland.

Man, I should have kept my bucket of bolts from years of salvage yard parts picking. Prices are ridiculous. Forgot to say also that we've all been so trained to go directly to an internet search engine that we've forgotten about the local dealership parts department (no offense intended, I just know that's how I've been retrained). If you get the right guy, someone whose been around a while, they will know how to search nationwide inventory and get it sent. On the other hand, if you get some fresh rookie you'll have to guide them through how to search using a part number. I went through this recently with a different brand of car. Worth a call or two. Courtesy Nissan used to be the go-to place for old Nissan parts but they have faded away. Worthless today, their web site doesn't even work correctly.

I've seen people use an electric knife for cutting foam. I've not tried it, but it looked like it worked well.

Both the original tensioner and the new one have rubber type washers between the tensioner pad and it's housing.

Yes, I set mine as tight as possible end of the slot. My slot is on the top side pivots from the bottom. My original bolt had a flat washer to cover the slot. The oil Slinger is sitting in position same as your picture. I'm going to attempt to put the cover on today without removing the oil pan. Not sure if that's possible but I'm going to give it a whirl.

I made mine as tight as I could on the slack side, the one that curves. I pushed the tensioner in all the way and put a zip-tye on it then pushed the curved guide as tight as I could and tightened it down. For some reason I'm thinking there's a white plastic washer that goes on the tensioner between the housing and the pad but it's not visible in my picture. Maybe you can confirm that and don't forget the oil slinger that goes on the crank nose.

Seek and ye shall find! I was able to find it and jumper the connection. It was really burried at the back. For others coming to this thread, when looking at the two wire bundles from the passenger side it's connected to the one on the right. It splits off from that. (see pic with finger pointing to it) Just grab the smaller taped up bit coming off it and start pulling. The Nismo pump is a bit noisier than I'd like but I'm really happy none the less. Initial pressure on start up is around 6psi and then once it warmed up it dropped to 4 to 4.5psi. I've moved the red wire from the + side of the coil to the ballast and it runs. But, I've currently got a intermittent misfire on two cylinders. Number 2 and 5. I found them by attaching the timing light plug wire connector to them and the light flash wasn't consistent. I've ordered new NGK plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I'm not sure of the cap and rotor though. I went ahead and assumed they're for an L28 though I could be wrong. How can I identify the difference between a L24 distributor and one for an L28? I'm guessing they're not identical. I know the 240Z had points and the 280Z didn't. As the car has a L28 from 2000 I'm assuming they also threw in a later distributor with the Pertronix. I pulled the plugs and they were really sooty. I cleaned them with a wire brush and that didn't really help. I'm wondering if it's my ignition or if I'm just running super rich. Both of those are on the most direct line from the carbs and I'm assuming would be getting a more fuel than the other cylinders to their sides. Brakes also need to be fully bled as I've installed the 8.5" booster upgrade from JDM-Car-Parts and new master cylinder as well. So it drives and stops and can be driven around a parking lot or paint shop if need be.

The FSM describes how to adjust the horn sound and its actually very simple (screw on the back with a locking nut). Not saying they'll sound like a Jag, but altering the way they sound is possible. I believe each horn is set to a different tone.

It is also important not to mix adjusters from one side to the other, as I believe they are handed

You could get either in a 77. The numbers don't mean anything. Your picture is not very good. Here's some FSM stuff that should help.

Up front in the area of the console look for blue tape around the wire harness. That's where you should find the female plug with 2 wires. Put a jumper across the plug and you should then have power back at the tank for the electric pump. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop to shut off the pump in the event of a crash.

Sorry, this 240Z dash is not in the car but here are pictures of the dash wiring and the unused connector that could deliver power back to a fuel pump. The wiring comes down the right side of the heater slider assembly with all the wiring to the fuse box and center console connections.

My new neighbors are smoking turkey legs today. I'm about to go introduce myself.

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI