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eBay UKDatsun 240Z Ashtray Snuffer Plate Reproduction In Stainle...Datsun 240Z Ashtray Lid Insert / Cigarette Snuffer Plate – Reproduction Part High-quality reproduction of the original Datsun 240Z ashtray snuffer plate, designed to match the look and fit of the f... Datsun 240Z Ashtray Lid Insert / Cigarette Snuffer Plate – Reproduction Part High-quality reproduction of the original Datsun 240Z ashtray snuffer plate, designed to match the look and fit of the factory part found in 1970–1973 models. Precision-cut metal complete with M3 bolts and nuts for easy installation. Fitment: Datsun 240Z (1970–1973) Material: Stainless steel Slotted snuffer design, includes M3 bolts and nuts Ideal for restoration projects or replacement of missing, broken or corrodedl parts

The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

That's a midlife crisis screaming out loud car. I'd end up wearing shoes without laces. 🤪

About this Vintage Z - As I recall - this one first showed up for sale about 20 miles North of me. New Port Richey or Holliday Florida. A friend of mine went to look it over, and reported that it was very poorly cared for. The next time we saw it, was its first sale on BAT. My fiend remarked that it had been very well detailed for that sale and looked 100% better than his personal inspection. Now we see it again, with an owner that put some significant funds and I’m sure elbow grease into it - to bring it up to better condition. Will the customer modifications hurt its market value? Not as much as the current market itself, the mod’s might hurt it a little as most collectors don’t want to mess with fixing anything.

And I thought it was some hot asian chick who drove a Porsche... O_O

Now that’s a smart Dawg!

Hi Site…..When installing new pistons and rings in an expensive rebuild, I want to feel confident that when I squeeze those pistons in the bores, they are perfect. The ITM pistons are awesome. When installing rings, I have found that the Total Seals oil rings mate up so easy that I can sleep at night shoving the pistons into the bores…….just me. I’m sure that ITM oil rings and Hastings will work, but I just never felt like I had them installed correctly….at least not in my mind. An extra $200.00 for top quality rings always seemed worth the investment…..whatcha think? BTW How’s your dog? Regards Guy

Never mind. I erased my internet history and the problem went away. Didn't know that "cookies" could do that. I think I had clicked on something by accident. Back to original programming...

I like stock cars but I also like modified cars. I like it when hybrid cars use a driveline from the same manufacturer. If I didn't have so many projects I would consider taking that one on...

Lol, I think it doesn't matter what car we drive. What matters is that we all like this culture

Hi guys, I replaced the mustache bar bushings and re-torqued my rear strut insulator lock nuts. I didn't notice any play there when the springs were compressed. The good news is that the clunking noise is gone. Replaced the master/slave clutch cylinders/hydraulic hose. The old ones showed some internal brake fluid leakage. No more grinding while shifting into reverse. The clutch fork moves 12.5 mm (half an inch). The pedal is at 8 in, 15 mm of free travel before the slave starts pushing the rod. I searched this forum and someone mentioned that the 15 mm is a good number for a fork throw. I am guessing if mine was too short to disengage the clutch disk, I would have heard/felt it. Thanks to all who helped with the diagnostics!

It's a small car! I will get some nose to nose pictures with my 240. That dealership is only a mile from here. Here's my offer of his for mine, no response yet but I'll leave that on the table for ONE WEEK!😁 https://www.nissanofgadsden.com/used/Porsche/1988-Porsche-911-bd11c7e8ac181b91072054cb1839c5ba.htm

Don’t worry Ji-hye, I drive a Porsche as well and they haven’t treated me bad…

I had the weirdest accident! My truck was parked in my driveway. The instagram model across the street was parked in her driveway. Nobody in either truck. My daily is a 2024 Tacoma TRD Off Road. Hers is a 1998 Ford Ranger. Her truck popped out of gear rolled out of the driveway, across the street, up my driveway and in to the front end of my truck. $3000 damage, all cosmetic. The only thing my wife says is “only you could get hit by a damned instagram model!” My rental is a Nissan Rogue. I am struck by how much better the transmission feels!

The 72 FSM has the colors. In @kats connector it does not show a Br or BrW wire. It shows two GW. This may be the correct orientation:

Anything to help another gearhead! Rust areas are the most important hidden item on these old cars.

Thank you Mike. If anyone from this forum wants one I'm sure I can arrange a sensible discount. Because the cost to ship to the USA is quite expensive if a few people wanted to club together i can send in one go.

I was preparing to remove the harmonic balancer to replace the front oil seal. Although the engine was wet with oil, I took a look at the area around the HB and noticed it was dirty, but dry. I then rag-checked the area behind the HB and confirmed it was dry - not leaking. I cleaned the engine and ran it for 10 minutes. I noticed the engine was wet in the vicinity of the oil pump and alternator bracket. The pooling seemed to be most significant under/near where the alternator mount bolts to the engine block. I removed the alternator and the bracket and cleaned up the area with a rag. Just to be sure it wasn't the oil pump I put a torque wrench on the four bolts and checked them at 13 ft/lbs (the spec is 11 to 15). I got a click on all of them. The timing cover was a different story. I started checking the bolts that weren't suspected of leaking and found they could all use about a 1/4 turn. The one just above the wet zone took a full two turns. The one just below took almost a full turn. It would appear that the significant oil leak was the result of two loose bolts on the timing cover. That was a heck of a lot easier then replacing a front seal.

I've used Hastings twice and didn't run into any problems. My dog has started eating those gummies all the kids are raving about. Now he just lays around and poots and then laughs about it.

This is AI playing a game... https://apnews.com/video/beijing-hosts-chinas-first-fully-autonomous-3-on-3-ai-robot-soccer-match-e304c40f16684667a9c35a73ab8e5b31

I don't believe that can happen for the North American market 240Z. The brake light and turn signals share the same bulb for the rears. Look at the turn signal switch. That's where it happens. You can make an adapter plug, but you have to add a wire for the brake lights.

Both upper reds operate as side lights and brake lights.

No, the Japanese market parking light system has its own bulb in each rear lamp unit. It's the one that is otherwise blanked off with the 'P' plug/grommet in the centre of the lamp unit.

Mr. Beck you're incorrect.

Sorry Yarb, I still don't grok. Don't make me discorporate!

Yeah, I like that Turbo 930

Actually, we are playing, not getting played. Playing the player. Training the AI. Some people get paid to do that. On the "trubo" misspeling, I'd guess that turbo is misspelled so often that it got scraped in by accident. Incorporate spell-check!

That's a good looking G86

Knock knock? Who’s there? Duffy. Duffy who? @duffymahoney Finally got around to posting a picture. Just have to slightly enlarge the mounts for the heater hose.

Wow! Did these restores actually increase the weight of the car by 420Lbs? Or is the right hand plaque in the picture for another car?

One of the Restoration Program Z's is up on BaT. Bring a TrailerVintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a Vintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #199,214.

Peanuts anyone?

Looks like they're selling in the 30's. Found a Reddit review. https://www.reddit.com/r/GR86/comments/1d5ptdn/gr86_an_actual_honest_review_from_an_owner_for/

Yes, thank you. My brother-in-law is a mechanic. I will bring him along

Someone might help you get a better price on the San Jose car if we can see it. This group has eagle eyes!

Dadgum! That breaks the value down on mine. Might be time to lower Hagerty's coverage or maybe it gets stolen tonight. 😂

IMO this is AI playing a game.

What size is the V10 in your Porsche? https://bringatrailer.com/how-bat-works/

Wow, 20 years. I admire you for being able to stick to this forum for 20 years. I will congratulate you on your 20th anniversary in 4 days. Haha

Thanks for the responses. I think I might just go with Hastings rings just to be safe. Seems like its the most cost effective option with reported good reviews.

How do they perform if installed correctly? Just curious. Is it a quality problem or a following-instructions problem?

😛

Oh, I totally get it and agree completely. It's just odd that Datsun put out a document that seemingly delineated the timeline. Sounds like they were trying to differentiate between the two and put a stake in the ground as to "when". So here's a thought... Maybe that VIN of 21001 would be better interpreted as "We've been making changes over the past couple months, and as of VIN 21001, here's a list of what we've changed so far. Moving forward, all the cars will have these changes incorporated." Maybe that's a better way to think about it instead of "As of this VIN, we will be making all of these changes from this point forward." and changing all of them overnight at that VIN.

Quick one today. After working out some kinks in the wiring (thanks @SteveJ) I’m nearly done with it. I refurbished the wiring for the tail lights this week. I’ve always planned to rework the arrangement to be more like (but not exactly like) the euro tail lights. I’ve read a ton of stuff about these cars getting rear ended, so I wanted to make it as clear as possible that I’m braking. I still plan to add a third brake light, but I think this is substantially better than the original US tail light configuration. Driving lights are the outside top lights only. IMG_4744.mov IMG_4745.movTurn signals are the outside bottom lights only (thanks to @w3wilkes for the flasher recommendation). Brakes all of the top lights. Now I have to figure out what I’m going to do with the front turn signals. These LEDs are so bright that when the driving lights are on you can’t tell they flashing from more than a couple feet away. I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it cut power to the driving light wire only when the turn signal is working.

Thanks everyone that contributed to this thread. I was repowering my 65 520 pickup upgrading from the J13 to the L18 and had this same issue with my clutch. Read the thread a couple of times, took some measurements and figured it out. The clutch package I used had an integrated throw-out bearing/sleeve so changing sleeves was not an option. I welded a 1/4" spacer onto the ears and now it's 92mm exactly from the flywheel!

😝

Very nice photo's. Looks nice I made a document in 2014 to help explain the differences between thre three versions used in the North American 280Z and 280ZX. BTW My photos are crap conpared to yours.

Here are the dimensions.

My wife came over to the screen when she heard oooing and aweing over the fresh zinc nuts and bolts, she called it "mans jewellery"