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The coil and ballast resistor won't affect just a single cylinder. They will affect all of them equally. If you have a single cylinder problem it won't be fixed with a new coil and resistor.

I think we have been through this before several times. The cylinder head needs to get pulled to see what the deal is with #4.

Pertronix.. my Favorite Brand... to throw in the bin! (New and old..) But ... just my opinion so carry on..

EuroDat added a dotted green line from the inhibitor switch to the seat belt switch. Maybe he had the same thoughts. Maybe the dotted line means maybe. It's not shown in the FSM original. He also changed the closed relay to open. Normally closed seems to make more sense since it would complete the buzzer circuit unitl you opened it by fastening the seat belt. Maybe. Oh well, just another puzzle that Nissan left us.

Been using Pertronix ignition and coil on my 240Z for about 20 years now. Works excellent.

IF, (big if) the problem is electrical and is isolated to #4, it has to be located somewhere in the dist. cap, rotor, plug wire, sparkplug, and or any of their electrical connections. I'd pull the dist. cap (wires intact), and pull the plug wires. Using an ohm meter. check the resistance in the circuit between the contacts in the cap with the corresponding spark plug wire at the boot end. They should all be similar. Let's hope you find high resistance in the #4 circuit.

Hahaha, perfect man you are.. in your own topic on page 37 I SAID: THIS : But your topic is now so damn big you don't know yourself what everybody said! I don't know .. but it sure makes ME Twitchy!! 😁 (Yeah i know it's only me that does not like pertronix under the hood! The only place for it is in the BIN!) Patcon and Mark Maras 2 But stop with this STUPID Behavior! It's very ANNOYING and it helps NO one!

I'm not sure that is related to the issue you've been working on or not. Next time you try to start the engine from cold, pull the small B/Y wire off the starter first and turn the key to START. You should hear the fuel pump run and prime the system. I'm thinking that your first start of the day difficulty may simply be that your fuel pressure has leaked down since the last time the motor ran. And yeah... Do the longer fuel line thing and let us know how the fuel pressure looks while driving.

Confusing diagram. I think they are trying to show "this is how it looks while in use". I think you are correct in that the nomenclature for normally open and normally closed is wrong in that diagram.

Okay why dont you recommend solutions and better brands before i make my purchase. Perfect critic!

No, different thing. Japanese market variants had a road safety-related system which allowed extra bulbs in the front and rear lamp units to be illuminated whilst the car was parked/unattended on a dark roadside. The lamps could be switched to illuminate either the left or right side lamps - or both sides - by means of a combo switch on the centre console (as illustrated in my previous post). All Export market variants carry the vestiges of this system, evidenced by the switch space on their centre consoles and the nascent extra bulb holders in the basic design of the front and rear lamps.

One is under the voltage regulator in the engine bay (I think that they're trying to show the oil filter in the background in their drawing ,with the bracket unbolted so that it can be reached), the other is by the fuse box in the cabin.

Yup. Slight pressure and move the tumblers around. Each tumbler should click over the wall and then move to the next one. Keep doing that one wafer (tumbler) at a time and the cylinder comes out.

This is easy to do if you already have a gauge spliced in. I put about 4ft of 5/16 hose between the fitting and the gauge. Unscrewed the gauge from the fitting, put the hose on the fitting with a good clamp, shoved the gauge into the other end of the hose and put on another EFI clamp. Zip tied it to driver's wiper arm and drove around for a day or two. Put the PSI numbers on here.

I can confirm that my 240Z that was restored by Motorman7 did win Best Exterior at the 2023 ZCON in Ontario. I also did have Miguel do single stage paint, as I wanted it restored to the way it was when I drove it off the dealer's lot, which Motorman7's restoration achieved spectacularly. For the 2023 ZCON in Ontario, I did have it professionally polished (regular wax, not ceramic) before the show. The judges also seemed impressed with the condition of the undercarriage, which was Motorman7's work. (photo attached) It was that undercarriage that caused me to start down the rabbit hole of show competitions. Got 1st Place Stock at the 2021 ZCON in Colorado Springs, and 1st in Class at the 2022 Hillsborough Concours d;Elegance, but now the wife is complaining about her cleaning duties at these events... 😁 So it time to turn it back into a daily driver. Maybe turn it into something like the modded Z in the attached photo? 😆