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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/2024 in all areas

  1. I have yet to pull the roof off of my car so i cant give you an exact place... but I would try to leave other panels intact so they can also get used... https://industrygarage.com/products/datsun-s30-carbon-fiber-roof?variant=42236566569176 I'm assuming that someone would be looking for a similar shape as what these guys sell, maybe just give the buyer the A-Pillar as well, its always nice to have more then cut back into what you need.
  2. On the other hand, I have a friend who has been using the Fast EFI for years, and this is a 280Z that he drives to every ZCON and a few other events, such as Branson ZFest, every year. He puts more miles on his 280Z than I do in my daily and other cars combined.
  3. Had it out today for the first time on public roads to get the exhaust installed. Still needs a lot of clean-up and finishing touches but it rips! I do have some issues of stuttering at low rpm’s but that said, I still need to go through some things. the exhaust is a bit aggressive but I like it. Sticks out quite a bit from the body. It’s the 1320 performance exhaust.
  4. Sigh. You are correct. I accidentally referenced someone else's pic. That's two strikes for me on just this page alone. I think maybe I'll just sit here quietly and watch for a while instead of unnecessarily muddying the waters.
  5. The FSM instruction comes after the test of resistance at Pin 13 at the ECU connector. The assumption is that the temperature circuit is complete and working correctly all the way to the ECU. You need to be sure that the ECU is getting the proper information. Measure resistance at the pins and compare to the table of resistance versus temperature. From the 1981 Guide -
  6. I picked back up on one of the seat backs on Sunday. First, I used some spray can adhesive to put this 1/8" grey foam sheet on the seat back: I used this plastic wrap around the seat back to aid with sliding the upholstery on: The I made another listing rod for the back upholstery. If you are needing to do this yourself, you will want the seat upholstery to be installed on the head rest like shown before you attach the listing rod to the wire on the seat frame (second pic). At this position, you can put on zip ties: Next, I installed about 6 hog rings, cut away the zip ties, and unfolded the rest of the material: As you can see by looking at the last picture above, the seat upholstery is "short". This is where it got interesting (read very difficult). As I yanked, tugged, pulled, massaged the upholstery from the head rest area downward, it fought back mightily. The foam seems to be a tad bid oversize to me. Anyway, I decided to put the seat back in the sun for a while and let it bake. I put the bottom seat cushion out there as well. After an hour, I gave the wrestling match another go (while I also was out in the sun). With what I'd call extreme effort, I was able to get the flap on the front of the seat back upholstery onto a couple of the hooks. But, it was super tight and quite a bit stretched. I brought it into the garage again to get out of the sun and again tried to convince the upholstery to find a lower position on the metal seat back. After getting the material on about 2/3rds of the hooks, I had to leave for a soccer game. That is all I have of pictures for now, but I will pick this back up again soon.
  7. 1 point
    Diesel cranks are $1800 or more these days. $1,100 is a good price. I figure even if the car cost $500 with fees. Sell the crank. Might be able to sell the head too. Take the car for scrap for $200 - 300...
  8. There are folks here on the forum that have tested factory ECU’s and have them as spares. As far as the fast EFI system I’ve heard very little other than a friend on the forum tried it and it did not go well for him. I would reach out and see what you can find here on a tested ECU that someone has in their stash. Again the longevity of a replacement is hit and miss but I would definitely try that first IMHO.
  9. I was recently gifted with a box of S30 antennas and associated parts. I hope to refurb them and get them in the hands of new owners. Of three antennas with mast bases, one is marked Harada and the other two have no branding whatsoever. The branded and non-branded units appear to be virtually identical in all respects, except for branding. Both have what might be a date stamp. My question to the group is: did Harada produce non-branded antennas or was there another manufacturer involved building identical but unbranded units, perhaps under license from Harada?
  10. Well that would be disappointing! I might start by calling Dave...
  11. On your first observation, know that the picture you are referencing was a picture supplied by @CanTechZ Something to point out is that I am unaware of differences in the back plates for the "earlier" cars. The parts book shows the same part number until June of 1972. I think it is the camera angles... and possibly that these back plates are relatively easy to "damage" by bending. The front of mine is (was) bent as can be seen if you look closely here (compare at two blue arrow locations: That said, I worked on the filter back plate a bit yesterday in my hydraulic press. I corrected what was obvious to me, but the filter doesn't really fit much better, maybe a little bit at the front. So, I don't know. I do know that the car came to me with two air filter housings. Out of the two back plates and covers, I selected the best ones and restored them. I don't seem to have to other pieces. I think I sold them with a batch of parts some time ago.
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